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  #21  
Old 03-19-2017, 02:45 AM
Sharon's Sheepdogs Sharon's Sheepdogs is offline
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Dendrobium resting phase or wrinkling stem no leaf disease? Female
Default Hydrogen peroxide

I agree with DollytheHun. You should repot the orchid in fresh medium and just monitor it. You probably did not cause any damage by using the hydrogen peroxide.

When I looked up the disease fighting properties of Hydrogen Peroxide, I found information on the CDC website regarding the use of Hydrogen Peroxide as an antiseptic. Their site stated that commercially available 3% hydrogen peroxide is a stable and effective disinfectant. The article further stated that the microbicidal activity of hydrogen peroxide was "active against a wide range of microorganisms including bacteria, yeasts, fungi, viruses and spores."

I checked my notes to find out where I read about using hydrogen peroxide to treat crown rot and saw that it was actually from Ray's website (First Rays LLC). The article can be found under Home Remedies. It includes the part about allowing the peroxide to sit in the crown for 5 minutes and to drain it out of the crown after use.

There is an article written by Dr. Courtney Hackney, St. Augustine Orchid Society titled "Nursing Orchids Back to Health" which also discusses the use of hydrogen peroxide on orchids for bacterial diseases. If anyone is interested in reading the article, you can find it at:

http://staugorchidsociety.org/PDF/20...ickOrchids.pdf

Clouds Orchids in Canada also recommends hydrogen peroxide for the treatment of fungal diseases. Their website states:

"There are a number of commercial fungal treatments on the market, such as Funginex, Damp-off, etc. If you prefer a safe home solution, then one of the following treatments may suit your needs:

1. Hydrogen Peroxide - available as 3% solution from pharmacies - use full strength to disinfect areas affected by things like crown rot. No need to rinse, as it degrades to oxygen and water on contact with contaminants." This article can be found at:

Diagnosing culture problems - Fungal


It is also important to note that there are apparently some issues regarding the use of Physan 20 on orchid leaves. Physan 20 is an ammonia derivative and it is suspected it actually strips the protective coating off the leaves.This allows easier infection by both fungal and bacterial diseases. However, to my knowledge, using it on the roots only continues to be safe.

Sounds like anything you use, home remedy or commercial chemicals to treat orchid diseases, they all have some type of drawback and you really need to research the product before using it. I doubt if any are truly safe to use on your orchids and it really depends on how important that plant is to you and what you're willing to do to try to save it.
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  #22  
Old 03-19-2017, 06:48 AM
Dollythehun Dollythehun is offline
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Dendrobium resting phase or wrinkling stem no leaf disease? Female
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We used to use an expensive but, very effective product, in the greenhouse, Zerotol. It is hydrogen peroxide and we used it to disinfect 2x a year. I remember it was a high percentage. However, I think we have strayed far from the OP.
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  #23  
Old 03-19-2017, 12:36 PM
Elfkin Elfkin is offline
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Dendrobium resting phase or wrinkling stem no leaf disease?
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Dolly there is actually peroxide in tooth paste, but I'm laughing because there is a hydrogen peroxide regiment to regulate intense body oh and many are raving. I've had oh I my mouth and it only bubbles where I have cuts or something at gumline.
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  #24  
Old 03-19-2017, 12:45 PM
Dollythehun Dollythehun is offline
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Dendrobium resting phase or wrinkling stem no leaf disease? Female
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I am well, more than well aware, that peroxide is used in hygiene products. It is the concentration...That horse is long out of your barn.

Elfkin, are you using speech recognition for your posts? If you are, and NO offense intended, it might be more easily understood if you typed. And yes, I also understand you are abbreviating.
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  #25  
Old 03-19-2017, 01:04 PM
bil bil is offline
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Dendrobium resting phase or wrinkling stem no leaf disease?
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I love this.

"It includes the part about allowing the peroxide to sit in the crown for 5 minutes and to drain it out of the crown after use."

Take a phal, and fill the crown with water and see what happens.

You can't fill a phal crown with water and keep it there, because the structure of the leaves does not make the area watertight.

Try it. It drains out in seconds.

Now when you have tried it, ask yourself this.. "Have people who recommend filling the crown with hydrogen peroxide for 5 minutes ever tried it?"

If they have tried it, surely they would have noticed it?

Or are they just passing on stuff that has no basis in reality?
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  #26  
Old 03-19-2017, 03:58 PM
Sharon's Sheepdogs Sharon's Sheepdogs is offline
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Dendrobium resting phase or wrinkling stem no leaf disease? Female
Default Hydrogen peroxide for Treating Rots

Alright, this is going to be my last post on this issue. First, I would like to thank dollythehun for reminding me about "Zerotol" which is now sold under the name "BioSafe Disease Control." It is a contact fungicide of activated Peroxygen for the treatment of diseases on flowers, shrubs, lawns, fruits & vegetables. It is safe to
use on orchids. I still have a bottle of it and can list the active ingredients:

Hydrogen Peroxide 5.34%
Peroxyacetic Acid 1.36%
Other Ingredients: 93.30%

As to growing orchids, I have learned from much trial and error (and dead orchids) how to prevent diseases as I'm sure many of us have. One of the problems I previously had was crown rot in phals. It took me a long time to learn to grow them successfully without being infected by some type of rot.

Crown Rot is caused by Erwinia (Bacterial Soft and Brown Rots) or Pseudomonas (Bacterial Brown Spot). These are both opportunistic water borne pathogens which can kill a phalaenopsis within days. Both of these pathogens are easily spread by splashing water or allowing water to remain in the crown of a plant. Unfortunately, like most fungus and bacterial pathogens, they already exist on your orchids, in your greenhouse or growing area, pretty much everywhere and are just waiting for the opportunity to infect.

Of course, once your orchid has developed a bacterial infection, it is also prone to fungal infections and vice versa. The rot can develop anywhere on the plant so the idea is to stop the infection from reaching the crown and killing it.

Apparently bil has not had any problems with these types of diseases affecting his phals so he is definitely doing something right and, if I were him, I would not change a thing. However, I do beg to differ as to whether water can accumulate in the crown of a phal.

Whenever I accidentally get water in the crown of one of my phals, even if it's an hour later, I take the corner edge of a paper towel and slide it down at the bottom of the leaves where they form a cup to draw the water out. I keep doing this until the paper towel comes out dry. I even pull the edge of the leaf away and stick the paper towel down in there as far as I safely can because I often find water down in there.

The cup formed by the lower leaves holds water and does not self drain unless you use gravity to assist the plant in releasing the accumulated water. It is for that reason that I was able to eliminate diseases infecting my phals, I grow them with their pots tilted or even on their side making sure the crown is able to drain. Once I began growing them in this position, I have never had another disease affect my phals.

For me, I try to nip any infections in the bud because the treatment for crown rot is a copper fungicide. Most commercial growers of phals use a very expensive product called "Kocide." However, there are many orchids that copper fungicides cannot be used on because it causes toxicity within the plant. Personally, if I can take a chance and stop a disease with the occassional use of hydrogen peroxide over a systemic copper fungicide which treatment with can be more detrimental to the orchid than the disease itself, I personally am going to try hydrogen peroxide first.

I will end this post with the following from Al Pickrel, owner of "Al's Orchid Greenhouse", Page not found

"Phals are highly susceptible to rots of all kinds. In nature most Phals grow on the sides of trees with their roots exposed to moving air and their leaves oriented in such a way that water runs off and away from the crown. Grown in a pot the opposite is true. Water collects in the crotches of leaves around the crown where most rots begin. Rots spread quickly and have usually killed or damaged the important growing tip in the crown before they are discovered. The most obvious symptom is leaves that turn yellow and blacken overnight. A closer look reveals necrotic, infected tissue at the base of the leaf where it connects to the crown or stem of the plant. If not stopped the pathogen will turn a healthy rapidly growing plant into mere compost in a matter of days."

It was after I read this article that I began growing phals in a tilted position and have been successfully growing phals ever since. Over and out.
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  #27  
Old 03-19-2017, 05:35 PM
bil bil is offline
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Thanks for a very interesting post.

I am as you know on the other side of this from you. I have lost three phals from crown rot. Two were in the garage for the winter before I finished the greenhouse. Because they were getting colder than I liked, I watered with scrupulous care, never getting any water in the crown AT ALL. Of the 4 in the garage, 2 died from crown rot. The other was in the car, and I forgot the sun would track, and it got over heated. Crown rot.

My biggest problem here has been cold condensate dripping off the metal beams. That stuff is lethal, as on a cold night it is very cold and can scar the leaves, so I am trying to work out how to eliminate that. I bet that cold drips on the crown would be quite enough to cause crown rot.

I now that there is wet brown rot spores, as I have had it once, but prompt surgery and cinnamon powder fixed that.

I do try and be very careful never to shock them with cold water at any time.

I'd be curious to know if you think there were any other contributing factors to your cases of crown rot, since you had so many.
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  #28  
Old 03-19-2017, 05:59 PM
Dollythehun Dollythehun is offline
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Sharon, please pm me.
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