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01-28-2017, 07:52 PM
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Jr. Member
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 1
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Can My Phalaenopsis be Salvaged? Mold and Black Spots on Crown (Photos)
Hi, everyone!
I'm new! I'm Angela - I just started getting into orchids and already have some issues with my first one (not a surprise). If you could weigh-in, I'd appreciate it! Trying to see if I can manage to salvage her:
I'm in California, had recently repotted this orchid in LECA pebbles inside a plastic plot with extra ventilation holes - using it as just a media, not semi-hydroponic - and have it near an East-facing window.
I got her as a gift initially and left it potted the way it most likely came from the store (in sphagmum moss, inside a foldable clear plastic cup, which was inside a clay pot). After a few months, I changed out the media into some what I now realize was not-so-good bark. I ended up cutting off almost all the roots with the exception of one aerial root and two root buds.
I was pretty bad with watering it, particularly recently as I was waiting for the LECA to arrive. I've started a routine of watering weekly (when the roots start turning silver) with the new set-up. I've only watered it once (used another pot to fill up with lukewarm tap water and pour around the plant, being careful not to get it inside the crown) since having repotted.
I started noticing some fungus growing near the crown and on some of the LECA around it, then more recently the leaves started turning yellow and have become flimsy. Lost two bottom leaves within the past week or two.
Any ideas on what went wrong? Is it too late to salvage?
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01-28-2017, 08:10 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Zone: 9b
Location: north florida
Posts: 3,384
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I don't know what it is, but that plant is dead....sorry
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01-28-2017, 09:16 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2008
Zone: 7b
Location: Smyrna, Georgia
Age: 68
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I'm sorry but think that your plant is, sadly, past the point where even the most seasoned grower would likely be unable to salvage anything. At some point the plant was severely overwatered, allowing the rot to set in. It's gotten far enough up the stem that most likely the core of growth (sorry about the scientific term) is rotting. My guess is that it developed when the plant was still in sphagnum; growers seem to love the stuff but in practice it's pretty hard to properly water a Phalaenopsis in it. Overwatering is simple in sphagnum.
Please don't let the loss of the plant deter you! There's not a sole on this board who hasn't lost a plant (or several) while learning the ins and outs of our hobby.
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01-28-2017, 09:32 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2008
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Location: Schenectady New York
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Hi Angela, welcome to OB! Unfortunately I agree that it is too late to save this plant. I only grow in bark mix, so I am not familiar with growing in LECA or sphagnum moss, but the right growing medium is whatever works.
Don't give up, it's a learning experience. I lost a few orchids myself when I first started growing orchids!
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Judi
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01-28-2017, 09:36 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Zone: 8a
Location: Athens, Georgia, USA
Posts: 3,208
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Hi Angela
I agree. Sorry, it is dead.
Although it is too late for this plant, here is some advice for the next one.
The LECA you have in that pot, either discard it or heat it (slowly) to 400 F for half hour in an oven before using again. Or use a good orchid bark (the Better Gro stuff available at Lowes and other retailers works really well; I have used it for decades).
Next is the advice that I personally think makes growing Phalaenopsis easy and nearly foolproof (but which almost no one does). Most people like to keep using plastic pots so they can see the roots. My advice is to toss the plastic pot and instead get an unglazed terracotta pot the same diameter (slightly larger is ok). Virtually all of my Phalaenopsis are potted in bark, in terracotta. Some are 10 or more years old.
Repot any new Phal as soon as you get it home, blooming or not. Repotting will not hurt the flowers.
Watering. Indoors I do this at the sink, let water run straight from the cold tap through the bark. I don't water again until the medium is nearly dry. Usually this means I water twice a week. That could be different in your climate. Don't use water treated by a water softener (the added salt is bad). If possible, find out what the total dissolved solids (TDS) content of your water is (your local water utility should know, and should be able to share that with you); under 200 ppm TDS is needed, lower is better. Some magnesium and calcium in the water is good, the water utility may know that too.
Fertilizer is the least important part of orchid care. Any water soluble plant food containing N, P, and K is fine. There are some available in garden centers that are specifically for orchids that contain trace elements, those are fine too. Any fertilizer, use 1/4 the recommended amount per gallon. Use no more than once per week, some growers do just fine with fertilizer only once a month.
Last edited by Orchid Whisperer; 01-28-2017 at 10:14 PM..
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Post Thanks / Like - 4 Likes
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01-28-2017, 11:28 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2016
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Location: Northern Indiana
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I agree. Also, I use Orchid Whisperer's method except I water by the weight of the pot. Heft it after watering well and then lift it each day until it feels light and then water again.
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01-29-2017, 12:48 AM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Zone: 10a
Location: Coastal southern California, USA
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Comment on OrchidWhisperer's comment on water TDS... While low TDS is great, I have found that even my hard water at 280 to almost 400 PPM does not seem to bother Phals. As long as the TDS is mostly calcium and magnesium carbonates, I have found that many orchids will tolerate it. If there's significant sodium, that's another story. For water quality info, go to the water company's website.
As others have mentioned, when you get a new plant (especially in sphagnum) repot sooner not later. And be sure the pot has excellent drainage. For what it's worth, I have tried whatever the media de jour happens to be, and eventually end up going back to bark.
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
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01-29-2017, 02:01 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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I agree with Roberta's comment regarding acceptable higher TDS if it is mostly from Ca and Mg. If you are uncertain what elements contribute to the TDS, it is better to stay lower than 200 TDS.
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01-29-2017, 02:50 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2015
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Location: Phoenix AZ - Lower Sonoran Desert
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Semi-hydroponic culture works very well for Phals, too, but it's important they be pretty warm when you make the move. I wouldn't do it in the winter unless you provide bottom heat.
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01-29-2017, 06:38 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkofferdahl
My guess is that it developed when the plant was still in sphagnum; growers seem to love the stuff but in practice it's pretty hard to properly water a Phalaenopsis in it. Overwatering is simple in sphagnum.
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Preach it Brother!
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