fungal infection bulbophyllum?

[blipe2]

I think I might have phyllosticta on by bulbophyllum cloud's gold rush? I haven't seen the typical spores though. The plant has coalescing brown spots only on the undersides of the leaves. Front side is fine. I think it must be fungal? I sprayed daconil. I know the leaves aren't likely to get better. Do I have to remove them? It's a small plant and if I remove all the leaves, I won't have anything left. The plant seems fine otherwise, but also don't want to spread disease. I don't want to get rid of the plant, if possible. Any thoughts? HOw ofter should I spray the daconil or is there something better?
thanks again. I love this place.

[charlesf6]

bump!

[estación seca]

This can also be residual damage from spider mites. Check for mites by wiping a damp tissue under the leaves, and look for red or brown streaks.

[Selmo]

Blipe2, looks like you have the 'Thai Crud' (phyllostricta/guignardia). Usually once you spray, it will stop the fungus that is present, but you will need to spray Daconil every 14-21 days to stop it from returning. Daconil is a contact fungicide, meaning that it stays on the surface and only kills what it comes in contact with. It will not be absorbed into the plant, those are systemic. Never use the same fungicide more than three times in a row (can build resistance). Switch up what you are using, go from a contact (Daconil, Mancozeb, ect) to a systemic (Clearys 3336, Heritage, ect) and back and forth. If you don't want to start a preventive spary program, watch how long the leaves are staying wet. Water early in the day, water only on sunny days, no over head watering, and INCREASE AIR MOVEMENT. This moves by splashing water so move infected plants away from others. You shouldn't have to remove the infected leaves, unless these unsightly leaves bother you, as new leaves grow they should replace the unsightly leaves. Hope this helps, and good luck

[blipe2]

Thanks. Will switch up the antifungals. Dont think it's mites but Ill check.

[jkofferdahl]

Originally Posted by Selmo

Water early in the day, water only on sunny days, no over head watering, and INCREASE AIR MOVEMENT.

Sorry to snip up the post.

A lot of preventative means go into keeping our orchids healthy. In my experience it is AIR MOVEMENT which is possibly the single most important thing. In nature orchids are exposed to rain at any time, wet leaves at night, and just about everything else we consider bad growing habit, but in nature there's pretty much always some amount of air movement. My own plants are grown indoors, and somehow I've managed to squeeze close to 100 plants into two small areas. Air movement inside a small room in a small house is virtually zero. Fans are constantly running around my plants.

[Orchid Whisperer]

To the above advice I would add PROVIDE CALCIUM. I've had Vandas with Phyllosticta that were cleared of Phyllosticta in new leaves just by increasing sunlight exposure and adding calcium (pelleted gypsum) 1/2:tsp/gal to the water; no fungicide.

[blipe2]

Originally Posted by Orchid Whisperer

To the above advice I would add PROVIDE CALCIUM. I've had Vandas with Phyllosticta that were cleared of Phyllosticta in new leaves just by increasing sunlight exposure and adding calcium (pelleted gypsum) 1/2:tsp/gal to the water; no fungicide.

Thanks. Will attend to all of the above.

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