Getting rid of bush snails?

[u bada]

Yes, toxicity to animals and kids is one thing (when you're growing ornamentals anyway) but toxicity to plants themselves, well that would be problematic...

Looked up Corry's etc... main ingredient is sodium ferric edta, toxicity concern same as sluggo/ sodium phosphate (the edta)... but along the lines of effectiveness, I guess the question is if it reliably attracts the slugs/snails...?

[u bada]

remembered about this thread...

Well I can confirm for sure that sluggo (iron phosphate) isn't so effective after all... as my grow tanks have gotten stuffed with plants problem has been getting worse. ugh.

AND I just tried dry ice aka CO2 bombing all my tanks and bush snails still come out at night. I may try repeated attempts but not sure.

Afraid to use something like chemicals on my grow tanks as Sevin...

any other ideas?!

[Nexogen]

Originally Posted by u bada

remembered about this thread...

Well I can confirm for sure that sluggo (iron phosphate) isn't so effective after all... as my grow tanks have gotten stuffed with plants problem has been getting worse. ugh.

AND I just tried dry ice aka CO2 bombing all my tanks and bush snails still come out at night. I may try repeated attempts but not sure.

Afraid to use something like chemicals on my grow tanks as Sevin...

any other ideas?!

I used Metaldehyde and I got rid of snails very quickly.
You do not want to use chemicals, but you still want to get rid of snails?

[u bada]

I cultivate mosses and other plants that could retain chemicals, and these mosses and such I shift around to animal tanks, so gets risky. Plus I sorta want to have some sort of rounded ecology in all of the tanks to keep other pests in balance (ie keep springtails alive, etc.).

Obviously, if bush snails keep wrecking flowers and new growths than it may be more a priority to kill them to make all the $$ into mini orchids more worthwhile...

So what's the verdict on metaldehyde and sevin in actually attracting snails to them? I'm thinking maybe I can fix up some sort of bait stations that can be removed if they actually attract them? (As naoki pointed out iron phosphate products don't actually attract them for instance)

[Paul]

I have tried Metaldehyde , Sluggo, CO2, and submergence -- none proved effective against bush snails. Problems with the first two, from what I have read, does indeed come down to the fact that bush snails are not attracted to the bait. CO2's failure, I suspect, may indicate an ability for the snails to survive lower O2 levels than many other organisms or their ability to windup in little pockets of air in the media that the Co2 is unable to displace. Tried soaking some moss from an infested terr hoping to kill the snails but not the moss. Soaked submerged for 24hrs or so. Kept the moss isolated after draining the water. Several weeks later, checked the moss and did find a live snail. Slimy buggers are survivors. I finally tore the tank down, removed and disposed of all media, cleaned the media off all plants, rinsed them well, then isolated the plants in a small spare tank for several weeks. Thoroughly cleaned the tank then put it back together. So far no snails. Hope it stays that way as it was a royal pain in the butt going through all that.

[orchidsarefun]

Try food grade Diatomaceous Earth. It works on all other pests. Thing is you've got to keep it dry. Sprinkle or 'paint' it on leaves, buds. It's chemical free.

[Ray]

Originally Posted by Paul

I have tried Metaldehyde , Sluggo, CO2, and submergence -- none proved effective against bush snails. Problems with the first two, from what I have read, does indeed come down to the fact that bush snails are not attracted to the bait.

the best treatment I have seen for bush snails is to blend metaldehyde with damp wheat germ, which they are apparently attracted to.

[u bada]

Thanks all, appreciate the help!

orchidsarefun, I could try that outside but sounds like won't work in my tanks, way too moist in there and regular sprayings.

Paul, I so sympathize. It's sad to tear apart what could be a whole little system for these little buggers... after two long doses of CO2 treatments two nights in a row, I've just been looking at those tiny pieces of_____ meandering about even today. I do think there are less though but before you know it a few surviving would bring them back to a lot again... ugh...

Thanks Ray, I'm not a cook but I assume wheat germ is for cooking? just have to make it to the supermarket... if that'll actually attract them than even better I can experiment with traps using the metaldehyde, iron phosphate, or carbaryl.

[nuriko1set]

Originally Posted by naoki

There are several chemicals, which can reduce the population. But the complete elimination is tough. At the end, I had to do complete repotting with careful washing of roots, and spraying high concentration Physan-20 to the grow area.

Among the chemicals, Sevin, as Leafmite suggested, seems to be most effective (among easily available). I mix 1.5Oz/gallon of Sevin with Physan-20 (1 tsp/gallon). These 2 chemicals attack different aspects of snails. Then it would be also good to add Neem oil to the tank mix. An experiment by Dr. Hollingsworth's group showed that neem oil make the snails hungry, so they walk around more, and get exposed to the chemicals. You can spray and drench this all over. You'll need to repeat the treatment every 3 weeks. I think 2 weeks are the time for the eggs to hatch.

The other way is to put the mounted orchids under the water. It is better if you can let the leaves stick out. The snails will start to crawl out after a couple hours. But you have to be careful. I forgot about it and I let them soak for longer than 24 hours. Most plants get suffocated, and were dead. I think 6 hours or so is the appropriate time.

Thank you Naoki for the information! for the chemical mixture of 1.5Oz Seven and 1 tsp Physan-20 per 1 gallon of water, after you drench, I'm assuming the pot, how long do you drench for?

do you wash it away with water afterwards?

thank you so much!

[estación seca]

If you buy new orchids from time to time you cannot keep molluscs like snails and slugs out of your collection.

Strong coffee does indeed work, and can be applied without damaging roots.

Brew strong coffee. Let it cool.

Water the plants thoroughly to saturate the medium and the roots with water. This prevents root damage from coffee.

Then apply brewed coffee, cooled to room temperature.

After an hour or two, water again with plain water to rinse out the coffee.