Cinnamon or Neem Oil for Insect Control

[FourN6]

Hello,

Can someone tell me which is better for insect control: neem oil or a cinnamon, water and soap solution?

I'm slowly adjusting my orchids to being outside but as the weather improves, so do the insects. I'd like to keep as many away from my plants as I can but I hate to use chemicals since eventually, all plants will come back inside.

Any suggestions are welcome.

[bil]

Sorry. I am a chemical megadeath guy. At the first sign of a problem I hit them with a systemic insecticide. All this 'No Chems' attitude is all well and good, but when a real problem strikes, you need the big guns.

Cinnamon? I have never heard if that being used as anything other than a dessicant.

[Orchid Whisperer]

Neither neem nor cinnamon+soap can keep insects away from your plants. In limited ways, both can help treat certain insect problems. The cinnamon extract + soap solution can temporarily alleviate scale and mealybug infestation until you buy a systemic insecticide. However, if you are uncomfortable using a systemic insecticide, you will likely need to toss infested plants before they spread infestation to the rest of your plants.

Neem is considered an "organic" insecticide, but is not preventative and does not work well on all insects (not very effective on mealies and scale) and I've read accounts attributing plant damage to neem (accounts I can't verify based on my experience).

Systemic insecticides containing imidacloprid are effective and have low toxicity to mammals (imidacloprid is used in Advantage brand flea control). Consider this in selecting a more effective insecticide.

[Leafmite]

You may not need to treat your plants at all during the summer. There are many beneficial insects in Ohio and PA (i.e. Lacewings, lady bugs) who will come to help. I just found a lacewing larvae on my cinnamon tree.
If you really want to keep insects away from your plants, I suggest growing Artemisia absinthium in a pot or two and putting it among your other plants. Even ants avoid it. The birds, however, will tear off its leaves to line their nests.

[Orchid Whisperer]

I also have natural insect controllers (unfortunately not practical in Pennsylvania or Ohio). We have an abundance of anole lizards here in Georgia and they love hanging out on my outdoor plant stands. They seem to keep most insects controlled. If I do need to spray, I chase them off the orchids. The imidacloprid never seems to bother them (you start to recognize individual anoles after a season, like recognizing house cats; the same ones keep coming back all through the season)

[Ray]

Neem oil can be a preventive - it is considered an "anti-feedant" that discourages insects from feeding on the plant, but its effect is limited, and in my opinion, does not outweigh the potential negatives of coating your plants with an oil, such as enhanced burning.

[Leafmite]

Except for some fruit trees and roses (which are attacked by everything, anyway), it is usually best to only use pesticides when your plants are in need of them. Many of these pesticides have strong warnings on the containers for a reason but are sold because most organic methods don't really work easily for large things like fruit trees (and, if you follow the instructions and warnings, you can minimize the worst of the effects on your health). I rarely use pesticides on my houseplants, preferring organic measures but we have the fruit trees and spray Malathion (as well as a fungicide) every two weeks, from just after the blooms drop until a month before harvest (many of the pesticides we used in the beginning are now banned). There has been talk of banning this one, too.
If you do find you need pesticides, here is what works:
Malathion--this is a good one that gets rid of everything from aphids to moths upon application. It is recommended to repeat the application in two weeks. Doesn't work well on Japanese beetles. Not recommended to use it more often than once every two weeks.
Sevin--ground zero for everything except mites. Seems to encourage them. It causes some fruit drop (we rarely use this one) so it might not be a good one to use when an orchid is in bud.
Systemics (Bayer, Ortho)--good for getting rid of infestations of sucking insects. Not good to use on houseplants that produce edibles (citrus, herbs, etc.). Depending on what type you use, traces of this can stay in a plant's tissue for a long time. I have used the granular for severe infestations of scale and aphids and it is very effective. I haven't tried the one you spray on the leaves, yet.
Neem oil works upon application by smothering insects. Relatively safe to use but might burn the leaves of plants if exposed to sun (we use this in the spring for our fruit trees when the tree is still dormant).

These work well but are more time consuming:
Isopropyl alcohol--works very well to get rid of many types of sucking insects. It can be put in a spray bottle and sprayed on the leaves. Sometimes it takes many applications to get rid of the infestation. Avoid spraying it on roots, buds and flowers.
Olive oil--apply in the evening, wash off very well with soapy water in the early morning. Gets rid of severe mite/scale infestations.

[bil]

I only use a couple of things.
Imacloporid, for all plant eaters.
Chas 48 if they are really getting out of hand
Mancozeb for fungus.
Copper for moulds, but never on orchids.

Thththththhthat's all folks.

[ElviraBaldwin]

Cinnamon and neem oil are the best home remedy to get rid of the pest. You may also contact rat exterminator Rocklin, as suggested by my friend for future reference.

[Orchid Whisperer]

Originally Posted by Leafmite

.
Systemics (Bayer, Ortho)--good for getting rid of infestations of sucking insects. Not good to use on houseplants that produce edibles (citrus, herbs, etc.). Depending on what type you use, traces of this can stay in a plant's tissue for a long time. I have used the granular for severe infestations of scale and aphids and it is very effective. I haven't tried the one you spray on the leaves, yet.

Leafmite, can you pass along the namecof the specific granular formulation you use? How do you apply it, for example, do you apply based on the size of surface area of the pot, larger pots getting more? How often do you repeat applications? I'd like to try a granular, in part because even though I do all I can to avoid impacting my anole lizards, and don't think they have been harmed, I still don't like exposing them to sprays.