Donate Now
and become
Forum Supporter.
Many perks! <...more...>
|
11-08-2015, 12:29 PM
|
Jr. Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2015
Zone: 7a
Location: Philadelphia
Age: 37
Posts: 2
|
|
Dying phal, newb to orchids
Hello everyone. I've put off registering/nagging you wonderful folks with my newbie questions with the hope I could figure out proper phal care on my own, but alas, such was not the case...
My ailing grandmother was given one of those Home Depot phals that was ultimately left on a windowsill to perish. Somehow I inherited back in May and began extensive researching into proper orchid care. I got into succulents a few years ago and am proud of the crowd I have, but orchids have always been too daunting. But I really wanted to give it a shot so I took it out of its little pot, pulled out the soaked spagnum, cut back the dried-out spike and cut away the dried roots (didn't know about sterilizing the cutting tool, so that's strike one...)
For a month or two it struggled. It started putting out a leaf that was all mottled and bumpy and didn't look healthy at all. About 6 weeks ago I fashioned a new container out of a water bottle (but didn't cut air holes for some dumb reason) and bought some orchid fertilizer (Jack's Classic 30-10-10) and put it in new bark I bought from Home Depot. For the last few weeks it started looking much better. The mottled leaf started growing much faster and smoothed out and another little leaf started growing. However, I think there was still humidity building inside the bottle (thanks to my forgetfulness with the air holes) and I noticed today white fuzzy mold (is it mold?) growing on a root and the stick it's tied to.
At this point I'm having trouble assessing with the problem is and what action I should take (if it's able to be saved at all). Again, sorry to nag. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Spent all morning watching YouTube videos but I'm just at a loss with my particular problem. Attaching a bunch of close up photos to help. Thank you thank you thank you.
Last edited by Falsk; 11-08-2015 at 12:33 PM..
|
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
|
|
|
11-08-2015, 02:18 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2013
Zone: 7a
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 2,780
|
|
I had a bit of white fuzzy stuff on my phal minus, a tiny plant. I was just told to wipe it off or use very dilute hydrogen peroxide to clean it off. (I was told this by a big name- professional grower). Other than that, switch the pot without holes to one with holes (I like those little aquatic plant baskets. I like to layer some rocks or lava (cinder) under some moss. That way I know I am getting plenty of air underneath. Orchids need air under their roots. I even would rather get them on something that lifts them from the surface of a much more light than I had originally understood. Basically, back down when they start to turn red. The smallest mass of water trapping media you can get is best, this is why "small pots" work so well. I tend to get bigger pots but fill with lava or rocks.
Last edited by Optimist; 11-08-2015 at 02:20 PM..
|
11-08-2015, 04:14 PM
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2015
Zone: 9b
Location: Phoenix AZ - Lower Sonoran Desert
Posts: 18,645
|
|
I actually think you've done a great job, it's looking good, and starting to recover. White fuzzy mold grows on things that are already dead, so it usually isn't a problem; just wipe it off.
If you can grow succulents, you already know how to restrain yourself from watering when you know you shouldn't, so you are light years away from many growers who can't bear to let a plant go more than 4 hours without a drink.
I'd give it as much humidity as possible to keep the roots growing strongly. At this stage some people set the plant on top of but not in damp sphagnum, and others pot it into bark. If you choose sphagnum, keep the sphagnum evenly moist but not dripping wet. If you pot into bark, stake it strongly so there is no chance of wiggling and damaging new roots. Water but then let it get thoroughly dry before watering again - but keep the humidity very high.
Many of us use kelp products to encourage root formation. They contain rooting hormones. I think they really work. I use KelpMax from First Ray's. I soak the plant in a solution of concentration 2 teaspoons / 10ml per gallon / 3.8 liters overnight, not more than once a month,
|
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
|
|
|
11-08-2015, 05:52 PM
|
Jr. Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2015
Zone: 7a
Location: Philadelphia
Age: 37
Posts: 2
|
|
Hey, thanks, guys. Wiped off the fuzz with diluted hydrogen peroxide and cut air holes in my container (I have no idea why I didn't do this from the get go. Seems like a no brainer...) and I think that should help. In the mean time I'll plan on getting some KelpMax--I think that should help out a bit. Maybe I'll get some actual slotted pots from that site as well to replace my haphazard, retro-fitted water bottles, haha. I'll try and post later the other big phal I inherited (which, against all odds, seems to be growing a new flower spike!?) as well as show off some of my other planties.
Thanks again, guys.
|
11-08-2015, 06:33 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2012
Zone: 8a
Location: Athens, Georgia, USA
Posts: 3,208
|
|
I also find that unglazed terracotta pots work very well. A 4-inch to 6-inch diameter pot would do. these wick excess moisture away from the medium. I repot nearly all my Phals into these, with bark as a medium, as soon as I get them home. I do have a couple Phals growing in plastic net pots; if you have a hydroponics store nearby, net pots are usually very inexpensive.
|
Tags
|
started, cut, growing, leaf, ago, bottle, mottled, bought, holes, air, weeks, mold, orchid, care, proper, home, depot, phal, orchids, watching, videos, youtube, faster, smoothed, loss |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:44 AM.
|