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  #1  
Old 04-30-2014, 07:50 PM
IGbullshark IGbullshark is offline
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Default New to site and need help!

First i would like to say hello as i am a first time poster! I have enjoyed orchids for several years now but just recently decided to pull the trigger and get one.

I bought a phalaenopsis around the beginning of January but it died within a few weeks. I found out that it was root rot but not in time to save it. I was given another phalaenopsis (an ice cube orchid) a few weeks ago as a gift and it started showing the signs of root rot a few days ago (around thursday last week). Learning from my previous experience i bought new potting medium (the wood chips) and repotted it on sunday after cutting off the rotting roots (i removed roughly 25-35% of the root system). Two of the smaller leaves were starting to turn yellow so i removed the yellowing parts as well. It still has 5 large leaves left and they look very healthy and are still very firm, not droopy.

I had watered it the day before i repotted it (Saturday) so now my main question is, when should i give it more ice cubes? the directions say to give it three once a week but since its in new potting material im not sure if i should do it now or wait a week until saturday.

Im hoping that removing the rotted roots will save it but today another flower started drooping and dying. is this common when you do this sort of procedure or is the plant still dying? So the the plant has lost 5 of 20 flowers (counting the one that started dying today) and 2 of 7 leaves (although the ones that died were the smallest and weren't visible at all. i'm taking about under 2 inches)

Thanks for the help guys!
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  #2  
Old 04-30-2014, 09:05 PM
Sharry Sharry is offline
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Consider using the spike as a cut flower - they last okay in a vase so that the plant can recover and put energy into root production. I would keep it damp but not soggy and out of direct sun until new roots appear.
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  #3  
Old 04-30-2014, 09:17 PM
RandomGemini RandomGemini is offline
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Someone here suggested that I put some sprite into the vase with the cut spike and water to help it last longer and it lasted for a month, which is about how long phal blooms last anyway.

As far as watering goes, I wouldn't use the ice cube method. I would run some water through the plastic pot for a few minutes, then allow it to drain on a towel for 15 minutes before putting it back into the cache pot. I think it's okay to let this one be a little drier because it's already had some rot, so I would just water it once a week in this way.
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  #4  
Old 04-30-2014, 09:29 PM
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Leafmite Leafmite is offline
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I would let your orchid dry out for a few days, perhaps a week, so that the roots have a chance to recover from the rot. Unless you live where it is quite warm/hot, I wouldn't use ice cubes as a sudden temperature change can stress a plant. I recommend using water that is at the same temperature as the air, if possible.
I grow most of my orchids in basket pots but I do have two noID's that are from box stores that are still in their original pots and medium. I water them about every three weeks by soaking them well, until the roots turn green, then letting them dry out completely. Their roots barely fit in the pots so the medium dries quickly and the roots stay healthy. It is a little bit of a science to get the watering right and to find the right care that works the best for your conditions.
Welcome to Orchid Board! Good luck!
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  #5  
Old 05-01-2014, 08:41 AM
RosieC RosieC is offline
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Welcome to Orchid Board

The ice cube method of watering doesn't really give enough water. Most people here don't like it, some do day it works OK, but I think it depends on your environment it's a bit of a gimmick really.

I often water straight away after repotting, though I know several folks here think letting them dry for a week or so helps the roots heal, and I keep thinking I should let them dry... then forget and do it my usual way

I water based on how the medium and the roots visible through the pot look. A good beginner method is to wait until the medium though the pot looks dry and the roots that are visible have turned silvery. Then water again thoroughly, either soak the pot (right up to the top) in water for 15min or so, or by pouring a lot of water through the pot. Make sure the pot is not left standing in water after you've drained it. I often think coming back another 15min after draining it and pouring out what has collected in the bottom is a good idea. I also on many of them use outer cache pots designed for orchids which hold the inner pot off the bottom so that the collecting water does not touch the inner pot.

Once watered wait until the roots turn silvery again before watering again. That might be a few days, or a week or so. Personally if it is longer than 2 weeks I feel it's not drying fast enough and try and increase air-flow to speed it up. The roots need airflow as well as water and if the medium dries slowly it often indicates insufficient air flow around the roots.

If you don't have a clear pot (it's not essential, though one with holes in the bottom is) then a couple of other methods can be used to judge when to water. The easiest for beginners is to use a wooden skewer pushed into the centre of the medium. Leave it in and use the same hole each time so as not to damage the roots more than necessary. Pull it out when you want to know if it needs watering. If it's damp then it's not time to water yet, if it's dry then it's time to water.

The other method is to tell by the weight of the pot if it needs watering. This is best learned while using one of the other methods. An orchid in dry medium is much lighter than one in damp medium. With practice you can learn to judge if it's time to water by the weight.
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  #6  
Old 05-01-2014, 08:32 PM
WhiteRabbit WhiteRabbit is offline
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  #7  
Old 05-02-2014, 11:37 AM
IGbullshark IGbullshark is offline
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Wow, thanks for the help guys! I guess i'm going to go ahead and cut back the spikes to try and promote the overall health of the plant. How far down should i cut the spikes?
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  #8  
Old 05-02-2014, 05:26 PM
RosieC RosieC is offline
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I like to cut them right back as close as I can without damaging the leaves. Some people like to leave them longer but if you do cut it right back it will grow a new one when ready.
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  #9  
Old 05-03-2014, 07:53 PM
Dave S. Dave S. is offline
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I always cringe when I see these sold with the advice to use ice cubes to water as I think this is not helpful to new people trying to grow this plant. It may work for some people, but I suspect very few.

How is the air movement around your plant?
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  #10  
Old 05-03-2014, 09:07 PM
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james mickelso james mickelso is offline
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The marketing strategy is to show the new grower how easy the plant is to water which gets them to buy it. Then it dies and they come here where we help them become knowledgeable about growing them properly. I say "hats off to the ad company who came up with the gimmick!"
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