spider mite cure - Page 2 - Orchid Board

Leafmite · #11 10-21-2013, 02:19 PM

I treat all the non-herbs and non-fruit-bearing plants (with the exception of the few that are sensitive) with granular systemic because if I didn't, it would be a nightmare (the years I forget, it has been). This will be great for those I cannot treat with systemic. I have quite a few houseplants, too, and I have learned that if you aren't careful, right around the end of January or beginning of February, you suddenly have infestations of everything.

Earwigs, surprisingly, are both good and bad. I don't like them but I think they are partially responsible for why my two year mealie nightmare is finally no more.

Bill U. · #12 10-21-2013, 02:21 PM

With this concoction, do you rinse the plants afterwards, or is it dilute enough to just leave on them? How often do you spray? Can regular dish soap serve as a substitute for the peppermint soap, do you think?

orchidsarefun · #13 10-21-2013, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill U.

With this concoction, do you rinse the plants afterwards, or is it dilute enough to just leave on them? How often do you spray? Can regular dish soap serve as a substitute for the peppermint soap, do you think?

I have sprayed 2x now, about a month apart. Including seedlings, no problems. I let it dry on the plants.
Because I have now included canola oil ( found that ingredient listed on a recommended commercial brand ), I just make sure that none of them are in any type of sun - so they can't burn. The use of rubbing alcohol can also apparently lead to burn, but I haven't had any issues at all because its diluted.
I also spray budded spikes, and haven't had any issues with that.

You can see residue on these photos - that gets washed away eventually with watering.

---------- Post added at 01:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:35 PM ----------

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leafmite

I treat all the non-herbs and non-fruit-bearing plants (with the exception of the few that are sensitive) with granular systemic because if I didn't, it would be a nightmare (the years I forget, it has been). This will be great for those I cannot treat with systemic. I have quite a few houseplants, too, and I have learned that if you aren't careful, right around the end of January or beginning of February, you suddenly have infestations of everything.

Earwigs, surprisingly, are both good and bad. I don't like them but I think they are partially responsible for why my two year mealie nightmare is finally no more.

I read somewhere that systemic doesn't work on mites, hence my spray. But I have used the granules on African violets as a better-than-nothing. I am a little wary of spraying AF leaves with the concoction, but I will eventually get around to testing it on them.

clusty · #14 10-21-2013, 09:36 PM

So mites are confirmed with a magnifying glass. Also saw one lonely thrips so just hit them all again with Spinosad.

I decided to go for the Avid miticide. Anybody have experience with it? I am a bit worried by the insistence on the label to use gloves and respirators

While it will get shipped I also sprayed all the plants with soap alcohol and water.

Fingers crossed

orchidsarefun · #15 10-21-2013, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clusty

So mites are confirmed with a magnifying glass. Also saw one lonely thrips so just hit them all again with Spinosad.

I decided to go for the Avid miticide. Anybody have experience with it? I am a bit worried by the insistence on the label to use gloves and respirators

While it will get shipped I also sprayed all the plants with soap alcohol and water.

Fingers crossed

that label is very scary. Wouldn't use indoors at all.
http://www.syngentaprofessionalprodu...96AL6A0904.pdf

james mickelso · #16 10-22-2013, 12:39 AM

All chemical labeling today warns the user to wear gloves and respirators. Or that's what it seems like. If in doubt ask the company to send you the MSDS (material safety data sheet) on it. Or look it up on their website. Of course I always use everything with caution. Chemicals are always dangerous and should be used with caution. But they work so much better than home brewer concoctions. Having started life as an organic gardener, I've learned that chemicals beat most everything else when used correctly. I tried growing tomatoes and strawberries organically years ago as a commercial farmer. The bugs are way too smart. Couldn't compete with the commercial growers for quality and yield.

Joseia · #17 10-23-2013, 08:29 PM

I have recently tried a product called Sucrashield, and it has worked very well for me. I applied it 4 times every 5 days, and I have not seen a mite since. Bought it from First Rays. It is not a miticide, it works by desiccating the bodies of the insects, works by contact.

http://www.arbico-organics.com/downl...ield-label.pdf

Orchid Whisperer · #18 10-24-2013, 12:04 AM

There is a Bayer Advanced 3-in-1 insecticide-miticide-fungicide that contains Tau-fluvalinate, a miticide. Try that product, or try products that are specifically for killing mites. Insecticides are not intended to control mites and may not be effective.

I know I sound like a broken record, recommending this site over and over again, but go to the St. Augustine Orchid Society web page on orchid pests and diseases, excellent information there: Orchid Pests, Orchid Diseases Same website provides an excellent list of pesticides and miticides: http://www.staugorchidsociety.org/PD...rchidPests.pdf While we are at it, also an excellent list of bactericides and fungicides:
http://www.staugorchidsociety.org/PD...idDiseases.pdf

OmikoJosen · #19 10-24-2013, 04:15 AM

Superb. I got many things what I don't know.

silken · #20 10-24-2013, 10:59 AM

I use Malathion. It is an insecticide as well as miticide and seems to work well, can be found easily in Canada and doesn't require full suiting up and masking to use it safely. It does stink tho. I don't use it in the house-rather in the greenhouse or place the plants outside to spray them first.