fungus & bugs - help - Page 3 - Orchid Board

mexorchid · #21 09-28-2013, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nexogen

Don’t use too much water; mist the plants with a spray bottle.

I thought of pouring a bit of H2O2 on the top only when the pots are dry also on the sides and bottoms. Does that seem good to you? Or now no more H2O2? I could also put this in the misting bottle...

Nexogen · #22 09-28-2013, 05:29 PM

Don’t use H2O2 for watering, just if it’s necessary (fungus, bacteria, etc). I don’t say nothing regarding to size of pots because repotting several time is more dangerous like big pot but carefully misting and aerating. All advices from James Mickelso are 0K, inclusive H2O2( decompose in HOH and O not toxic for plants) is an oxidizer(cell membrane damage), character used for disinfection and don’t forget, in next spring you have to repot in smaller pots enough for 2 years of growing.

---------- Post added at 04:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:22 PM ----------

And if you remember, my advice for you was LECA in clay pot, classic not S/H

---------- Post added at 04:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:25 PM ----------

not critical for pot size

---------- Post added at 04:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:27 PM ----------

When the pots are dry, mists not submerge in water.

You enthusiasm kill the plants, slow down with water.

One more thing; fans must run 24/7 (Yours fans are for DC 12 V) and if it’s too much noise you can buy from second hand store for $3 power adapters-chargers (5-9) volts DC (not coaxial) bifilar. If the cable is bifilar black, line with white paint is +(positive)

Island Girl · #23 09-28-2013, 09:37 PM

Yea, I would not use peroxide to water your plants... If you used it like that, it will cause tissue damage to precious roots. I also agree with everything that James said... (Which is usually the case Lol)

EDIT: On repotting again, I'll wait to see what James has to say, but usually, I'd say leave it alone after a recent repot. Just be sure not to overwater, as that is all too easy to do when orchids are over-potted. Remember, it is much better to under-water, than it is to over-water!!!

mexorchid · #24 10-09-2013, 09:54 PM

Thank you so much everybody!!! I think the fungus is gone or much less. I can't look in the middle of the medium but on the edges it all looks clear. I got a better ventilator that is blowing on them 24/7 and installed a heating cable. The pots dry out within just a couple of days. Then I wait… and wait… and then I water with the misting bottle. A couple of them start growing new roots but almost all of them look "dry". As in the leaves aren't filled as plump. Shall I water a little more? Could I start making some breaks with the ventilator so they get more heat?

The furniture is almost ready. You can see it in the picture with the roof de-icing cable installed on the surface. My plan was to fill that with LECA and fill half of the hight of the LECA with water. There is a declination towards 1 corner so I can easy change the water every week with a hose. Can you tell me if that is a good idea or something wrong with it?

And last: is the bottom heat also good for the Paphs and Odontoglossum?

Nexogen · #25 10-10-2013, 08:34 AM

The plants are in recovery mode, don’t worry.
Attention, how much power has roof de-icing cable?
With a multimeter you can measuring Ohms and write in the next posting please, you can burn the plants.

mexorchid · #26 10-10-2013, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nexogen

The plants are in recovery mode, don’t worry.
Attention, how much power has roof de-icing cable?
With a multimeter you can measuring Ohms and write in the next posting please, you can burn the plants.

Ok, so I'll keep watering as is.

I don't have this multimeter. I did put the cable on a dimmer at first to start low. But I realized, if it's not on full power it doesn't even get the pots a bit warm. Specifically with the ventilator on I'm sure it can't get too hot.

Do you think filling the platform of the furniture with LECA and a part of water is a good idea? Or is it likely to grow fungus in it even if I change it every week?

Nexogen · #27 10-10-2013, 06:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mexorchid

Ok, so I'll keep watering as is.

I don't have this multimeter. I did put the cable on a dimmer at first to start low. But I realized, if it's not on full power it doesn't even get the pots a bit warm. Specifically with the ventilator on I'm sure it can't get too hot.

Do you think filling the platform of the furniture with LECA and a part of water is a good idea? Or is it likely to grow fungus in it even if I change it every week?

Yes until next spring just misting, after you repot in smaller pots you can play in reasonable limits with water. Are better small pots; for plants and for you, after time you want more plants in a limited space…

I use from Home Depot

Plaskolite Egg Crate White Louver - 23.75 Inch x 47.75 Inch (let me see) and I fill half with water and sometime add a little VIRKON. It’s yours choice for easy mode to clean “terrarium”, and touch roof de-icing cable with a thermometer, (26-30) degrees Celsius no more.

---------- Post added at 05:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:35 PM ----------

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nexogen

Yes until next spring just misting, after you repot in smaller pots you can play in reasonable limits with water. Are better small pots; for plants and for you, after time you want more plants in a limited space…

I use from Home Depot Plaskolite Egg Crate White Louver - 23.75 Inch x 47.75 Inch and I fill half with water and sometime add a little VIRKON. It’s yours choice for easy mode to clean “terrarium”, and touch roof de-icing cable with a thermometer, (26-30) degrees Celsius no more.

For misting or watering I use only reverse osmosis water, I never drink or use for plants tap water. If you try reverse osmosis water, don’t forget from Botanicare; Cal Mag Plus and Liquid Karma…

Here in attachment is Plaskolite 23.75 Inch x 47.75 Inch, ups, forgot the name sorry, but is from same department(lightning), sorry.

mexorchid · #28 10-11-2013, 12:58 AM

Thanks for still writing and having such patience with me!!!

I have measured: media have about 22C, bottom of pots around 25C. Just 1 had the medium 25C and pot bottom 32C, I have moved it. And will keep checking. Good to know some specific temperatures I can stick to.

1 line of exactly that grid is what I have been using to guide the cable. It's so practical for many things, but... well doesn't look so great. Also the LECA is transmitting the heat very nicely and evenly to the surface but I don't know if it maybe causes too much trouble if I fill in the water? The Virkon seems a good idea! I can just add that to the water anyway and change it more often.

I don't have a system to make rev. osmosis water, I use tab water that I leave standing for a day to get rid of the chlorine (at least I believe to). I have a charcoal filter that I could use in addition... would that be any good?

---------- Post added at 11:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:52 PM ----------

Does that temperature (26-30?) also count for the phaps and odontoglossum?

Nexogen · #29 10-11-2013, 06:50 AM

Yes for all plants

inclusive phaps and odontoglossum (warmer rooting zone helps produce roots quicker) and one more thing; cold water on the young roots will shock the plants and retard their rooting abilities.

Tap water is only for wash your hands not for drinking, chemical used for treatment

For LECA, hm; variable size, instability/horizontal, maintenance... a lot of negative aspects

PaulB · #30 10-11-2013, 12:17 PM

By now, your bugs are probably gone, but this is a good thing to have around and use:

10 drops dishsoap
1.8 ml cinnamon extract (about 1/2 tsp.)
2 cups tepid water

adjust ingredients as needed.

Takes care of a lot of issues-bacterial and fungal problems and kills the nasty bugs almost on contact.

And it's all out of your kitchen cupboard