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05-13-2013, 01:47 AM
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Philip
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05-13-2013, 10:11 PM
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Your virus test will probably be positive, but that doesn't mean virus has anything to do with those discolorations.
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05-13-2013, 10:30 PM
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I don't see why you are making such statement.
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05-14-2013, 04:52 PM
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Because a virus visible on leaves is never translucent?
I've seen perfectly clean leaves with perfectly clean blooms that are virused. I've seen marks on leaves that shout virus but are clean. It is impossible to ID a virus without testing.
Translucent usually indicates a bacterial infection - is it fatal to the plant, I don't know. But as Gage said, it could also be virused.
Brooke
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05-14-2013, 06:02 PM
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The interesting part of this to me is that I noticed the same thing on some of my phals today and was going to post pictures and questions about the same thing. I haven't seen it on any of my orchids before now. The orchids are from a recent Carter and Holmes order. The guarantee virus free orchids. I repotted them last week. I did rinse the roots and leaves when I repotted and wiped them down. Good cultural practices and no infected plants. What could it be?
It does resemble the other photos in this thread.
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05-14-2013, 06:09 PM
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Taken from Staugor Orchid Society website:
"Microfungus, Phalaenopsis Chlorotic Spot Virus or Tiny Mites?
Microfungus or Virus or Mites? We've heard this malady described as all three.
Symptoms: In the order of appearance, the leaves display yellow chlorotic spots, then more defined yellow spotting that can grow into elongated yellow streaking, then pitting, and finally large areas of grayish tissue collapse. It can be confused with mesophyllic cell collapse caused by watering with cold water, although cold damage weathers to dark rather than light sunken spots in phals. Paph infections weather to darkish sunken spots. Cattleya may have small black spots on the leaves.
From Bob Gordon Culture of the Phalaenopsis Orchid: "sometimes a condition prevails that is caused by a systemic infection of microfungi. As there are literally hundreds of these, the symptoms vary from plant to plant. Some of the more common are a spotty, ill-defined chlorosis; a streaky chlorosis beginning at the edge of the leaf where it looks as if the leaf edge had been burned with a match or candle; a red-brown coloration appearing at the apical third or half of the lower leaves followed by a dehydrated and senescent (old) appearance and also mesophyll tissue collapse where deep pitting becomes apparent on the surface of the leaves. This latter condition can also be caused by cold water and by virus infections. However, in the latter instance, the pitting is usually dark-brown to black in appearance rather than the white to light fawn caused by fungi."
Treatment: If you believe it is broad mites, spray with a miticide (labeled for Tarsonemidae family mites) at the first sign of chlorotic spotting. If you believe it is a microfungus, follow the recommendations from Alan Koch of Gold Country Orchids: spray first with Banrot plus Aliette, then Cleary's plus Subdue, then Banrot plus Subdue. These sprays / drenches should be 7 days apart in summer and 10 to 14 days apart in winter, all at label strength. The combination of fungicides results in a synergistic effect. Follow all label instructions and wear protective equipment. "
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05-15-2013, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJF
Treatment: If you believe it is broad mites, spray with a miticide (labeled for Tarsonemidae family mites) at the first sign of chlorotic spotting. If you believe it is a microfungus, follow the recommendations from Alan Koch of Gold Country Orchids: spray first with Banrot plus Aliette, then Cleary's plus Subdue, then Banrot plus Subdue. These sprays / drenches should be 7 days apart in summer and 10 to 14 days apart in winter, all at label strength. The combination of fungicides results in a synergistic effect. Follow all label instructions and wear protective equipment. "
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Cant I just use physian seeing as I just ordered that?
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05-15-2013, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stylingpat
Cant I just use physian seeing as I just ordered that?
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I would try that or something with neem oil. I look up the fungicides they mentioned. They look like they are difficult to find and very expensive. Phyton might be good
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