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  #11  
Old 02-14-2013, 05:29 PM
NYCorchidman NYCorchidman is offline
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[/QUOTE] I don't know what I am doing wrong as they aren't like that when I get them.[/QUOTE]

So when you first buy these plants, they all have clean even green leaves, and then over time they show these yellow streaks?

Hmmmm that's interesting.

The ones I buy all come with those light spots I mentioned. With lower light at flower stores, it's not immediately obvious, but I can still see.
I buy them just for flowers when they look irresistibly pretty in bloom. then once flowers fade, I look at the leaves and start thinking.

What kind of fertilizer do you use on them? do you use the same type for all your orchids and only these show funky leaves?
I'm just trying to see why and any possibility.
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  #12  
Old 02-14-2013, 05:31 PM
silken silken is offline
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Yours look just like mine although some of mine are even worse. I just took a photo of the one I tested and will post it in a while. here. I have to run out for an errand first. Maybe it is heat stress for me as the greenhouse does get warmer than it should in the summer for these. If that's the case, I might do better this summer as I now have a swamp cooler.
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  #13  
Old 02-14-2013, 05:34 PM
NYCorchidman NYCorchidman is offline
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I would love to see how your milts will fare this summer then.

Ok, I'm patiently waiting for your pictures.

and the oncidiums that tested negative?
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  #14  
Old 02-14-2013, 07:38 PM
silken silken is offline
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I switch ferts now and then and don't have a method per se. I mostly use MSU for rain water and I use rain water. When the new growths are started I will use Schultz bloom booster now and then to hopefully get some blooms. I've also been adding a bit of kelp now and then to their feed. But I find these respond less than some types like Catts and Phals as far as root growth from kelp. It's too bad as they could use some help in that regard.

Mine are always lovely when I buy them and get like this within about a year of me having them. I should give up on these but they are one of my favorite type and I persist.

OK, attached is the one I tested. It is about the worse looking of the bunch. However it has about 3 new growths of various sizes that aren't spotted-yet! One is hiding behind a mature growth. You can see the leaf tip that I cut off for the virus test.

I should add that I have never had an anti fungal/bactericide as you can't buy much in Canada. So I couldn't do any preventative spraying. I got some about 10 months ago and have been using it occasionally which also might help.
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  #15  
Old 02-14-2013, 08:35 PM
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Leafmite Leafmite is offline
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Oncidium leaves do tend to look pretty awful. I went through a phase where I couldn't stand the leaves and gave them all away. Now, ever so slowly, oncidiums are creeping back into the collection.

---------- Post added at 07:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:27 PM ----------

Is it possible that this is caused by a need for some nutrient? Some of my non-orchids get this when they need iron or the pH is off. Just an idea.
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  #16  
Old 02-14-2013, 09:05 PM
silken silken is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafmite View Post
Oncidium leaves do tend to look pretty awful. I went through a phase where I couldn't stand the leaves and gave them all away. Now, ever so slowly, oncidiums are creeping back into the collection.

---------- Post added at 07:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:27 PM ----------

Is it possible that this is caused by a need for some nutrient? Some of my non-orchids get this when they need iron or the pH is off. Just an idea.
I've wondered that and should get a pH meter but MSU has micro nutrients and I also use Epsom salts every now and then. For the Milts I was also wondering if I give them too much light. I don't think they used to get this way under 1 T5 light but I have had them under 2 bulbs all winter. I really like most Oncidiums and I just put up with it although I am ashamed to show these blooms when the leaves are bad.
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  #17  
Old 02-14-2013, 10:54 PM
NYCorchidman NYCorchidman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silken View Post
I switch ferts now and then and don't have a method per se. I mostly use MSU for rain water and I use rain water. When the new growths are started I will use Schultz bloom booster now and then to hopefully get some blooms. I've also been adding a bit of kelp now and then to their feed. But I find these respond less than some types like Catts and Phals as far as root growth from kelp. It's too bad as they could use some help in that regard.

Mine are always lovely when I buy them and get like this within about a year of me having them. I should give up on these but they are one of my favorite type and I persist.

OK, attached is the one I tested. It is about the worse looking of the bunch. However it has about 3 new growths of various sizes that aren't spotted-yet! One is hiding behind a mature growth. You can see the leaf tip that I cut off for the virus test.

I should add that I have never had an anti fungal/bactericide as you can't buy much in Canada. So I couldn't do any preventative spraying. I got some about 10 months ago and have been using it occasionally which also might help.
Is this milt or oncidium???

Whatever it is, I was like

and this one tested negative???
For me, throwing away very ill looking plants is much easier than looking at them wondering what, why and how.

When plants (haven't seen orchids cases but probably very similar) suffer certain minor but must nutrient diciciency, they show all kinds of funny look on their leaves.
This is not iron dificiency, which cause leaves to yellow only leaving veins green. So it is very distinct and easy to point out.
Magnesium, manganese, molybdenum, boron, calcium...all these when dificient, can cause leaves to look ugly with yellow and brown coloration/patch and look almost like some fungal or virus symptoms.
The thing is, when the dificiency is the problem, entire plants show the same symptom until whatever is missing is met.
The fact that your plant's old leaves are looking funny but not the new ones, makes me think it's something else.

Also, pH can affect the availibility of those ions to plants. but when other plants in the collection are fine but not oncidium types, then this also suggests that dificiency of certain ions is not the issue here.
It's definitely not normal. That is for sure!

It could be some other virus but who knows?

Leafmite- I know. I love oncidiums for their flowers, ease of growth,,,,BUT the leaves....I dumpt all out and kept only one yellow dancing lady and tahoma Glacier. now I have accumulated a few more. It is hard to resist because they are so beautiful!

Last edited by NYCorchidman; 02-14-2013 at 11:20 PM..
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  #18  
Old 02-14-2013, 10:59 PM
silken silken is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYCorchidman View Post
Is this milt or oncidium???

Whatever it is, I was like

and this one tested negative???
For me, throwing away very ill looking plants is much easier than looking at them wondering what, why and how.
Sorry to scare the c_ _ p out of you! To me its not that bad with 3 new clean growths, so long as they stay that way. It is a Miltoniopsis that I just bought last summer, so I am not throwing it away. Especially when it tested negative for those two viruses. I blame it on my culture which I will eventually figure out (I hope). It is a challenge I WILL overcome!
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  #19  
Old 02-15-2013, 03:55 PM
DavidCampen DavidCampen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camille1585 View Post
I wanted to test a few of my suspicious plants a few years ago, and contacted Agdia to find out who their European distributors were. But they kept shuttling me around, " no if you're in the netherlands you have to contact x". Do that and I get sent somewhere else, and so on, and it seems like they are only selling to businesses/researchers here. Never did figure out how to order strips!
You might get a better response from this UK based company:
Ornamentals

---------- Post added at 11:55 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:36 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by silken View Post
I've wondered that and should get a pH meter .
I consider pH meters to be too much of a hassle to be worth it for occasional use. You have to store the pH meter with its probe kept wet in a storage solution and if you actually want a correct reading then you also need to perform a 2 point calibration, using 2 buffer solutions, every day that you use the pH meter. So in addition to the pH meter you need a bottle of storage solution and 2 bottles of buffer solutions.

I use pH papers. With an assortment of pH papers in different ranges you can determine pH to within 1/2 unit.
I use these Hydrion brand Microfine pH papers in the ranges 2.9-5.2, 4.9-6.9 and 6.0-8.0:
Micro Essential Lab Hydrion MicroFine pH Test Paper Dispenser: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Along with another couple of rolls of broader range papers.

Last edited by DavidCampen; 02-15-2013 at 04:01 PM..
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  #20  
Old 02-15-2013, 04:26 PM
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camille1585 camille1585 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidCampen View Post
You might get a better response from this UK based company:
Ornamentals
OMG, you are going to get a GIANT laugh out of this... So I went to the site you posted, found the list of European distributors and you know what? The distributor for the Netherlands is located... in the building where I work!! At the other end of the hallway.

Plant Research International is part of Wageningen University. OMG, I don't think I have laughed so hard in ages.
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Last edited by camille1585; 02-15-2013 at 04:47 PM..
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