Bringing cymbidiums in for the winter

[alligator1]

Hi. For the first time I put my cymbidiums outside for the summer. Now I need to bring them in. I sprayed insecticide soap on the foliage but what can I pour through the bark to make sure no pests are lurking in the bark mix?

[michael_exler]

Excuse me for asking, where are you located that you need to bring Cymbidium in for the winter?
I see your sign in name is Alligator which leads me to believe you might be in the southern US, and if so them Cymbids can handle some pretty cold temps.
Those cold temps usually get rid of any critters you have lurking in you pots.
To answer your question, I have heard of folks using original Listerine dilluted with water as a rinse for potting medium.
It was some where around 1 part per 5 of water mixed well.

[Bird Song Farm]

I'd like to renew this thread for those of use who live North of the Mason-Dixon line.
My cyms have done well for the summer and fall outside, however, with temp's approaching the 20's and lower it is time to bring them in. I have saved a cool, bright window for them.
Thanks for any advice.

[stonedragonfarms]

I saw your thread this morning; I grow here in Michigan, and while not Maine, see my fair share of slugs and their ilk in pots at the end of the summer outside. I have heard of various different methods for dealing with them, ranging from Sluggo bait (which I believe is copper based and is applied directly to the media; when you water it is washed into the pot and kills the critters), orthene dunks (the chemical application is mixed up and the entire plant & pot is dunked to rid all of critters) or the relatively simple act of filling a bucket full of water and standing the pot in it (The water depth must come over the top of the media, but most critters will flee a flooded home, and can then be skimmed off the surface and flicked back outside or fed to appreciative koi and goldfish. This is the most chemical free of the methods, but make sure that you change the water in between plants.)
Hope this is of some help,
AP

[Bird Song Farm]

Originally Posted by stonedragonfarms

I saw your thread this morning; I grow here in Michigan, and while not Maine, see my fair share of slugs and their ilk in pots at the end of the summer outside. I have heard of various different methods for dealing with them, ranging from Sluggo bait (which I believe is copper based and is applied directly to the media; when you water it is washed into the pot and kills the critters), orthene dunks (the chemical application is mixed up and the entire plant & pot is dunked to rid all of critters) or the relatively simple act of filling a bucket full of water and standing the pot in it (The water depth must come over the top of the media, but most critters will flee a flooded home, and can then be skimmed off the surface and flicked back outside or fed to appreciative koi and goldfish. This is the most chemical free of the methods, but make sure that you change the water in between plants.)
Hope this is of some help,
AP

Hi AP,
Thanks for the info but your answer is directed for Alligator more than for me. I don't have a pest problem (that I know of) but am wondering if I need to condition the plants before bringing them inside. Been in the low 40's to high 30's F here and they are used to that and doing well (new shoots). Will the abrupt night time temp. change be their downfall? Inside night time temp. is in the middle to high 50's. F.
Thanks,

[stonedragonfarms]

I moved all of my cyms in about two weeks ago; I maintain my GH @ 48F night temps and about 60% humidity...that being said, you will experience more rapid growth with higher night time temps (if the new growths that you are seeing are spikes--as they should be at this time of year--then they will elongate quicker at higher night temps)...the thing with cyms at this time of year I believe is more what sort of daytime temps they are exposed to; if your location is going to be in the mid 80's by day, and then down to the mid 50's at night, you may encounter problems with the maturing spikes; the temps are too drastic; I am guessing that you are probably more likely going to be in the mid 60's during the day, which should not present any problems. Keep in mind that you should not be fertilising at this time of the year...or you should be using a fertiliser with a higher middle number rather than a growth based fertiliser (one with a high first number); when in doubt, don't fertilise. Also remember that you may have to water more often on account of dryness in the home (when I used to grow cyms on a windowsill i watered them about every 5 days or so...unless it had been very mild outside and there was more humidity in the house)
Hope that this is of some help, let me know if you have more questions...
Adam

[Bird Song Farm]

Thank you Adam, your reply was "right on". Just what I needed to know. My 3 Cyms. will be comming in the house today (26 F this a.m., glad I put the plants under cover last night). The new growths I mentioned are new shoots and not spikes. Hopefully a few weeks inside will bring along a spike or two! I really appreciate the time you took to answer my question. You gave me more information than I have gotten in hours spent searching the web.

[Bird Song Farm]

Adam, exactly 7 days after bringing my cyms in for the winter I have two spikes on my standard size and 1 on my mini. I have one more standard that is not showing any as of today but it is also supposed to bloom in Feb.-Mar. so am not concerned.
Thank you again for the advice. I've also taken note of your help to others and you certainly know your plants and pay attention to the question being asked. With much appreciation,

Al at Bird Song Farm

[cb977]

Being on the west coast of Florida...I just put my Cyms OUT!

[Bird Song Farm]

Guess that a big thanks to diversity in the country and in the people! Good luck with 'em, from the pictures you've posted I'm sure you won't have any trouble.