Granular Bayer Systemic--dose??

[ElenaMarie]

Hi All!

I've searched through threads to find the answer to this question but must have missed it.

I have three Phalaenopsis and one is being lightly attacked by some insect (can't locate any but there are small sap bubbles on the spike so something must be at it.) The flowers and leaves appear healthy enough but I'd rather strike early than wait for a nightmare infestation.

I've read about using the Bayer Rose Care Systemic granules and understand that using the granules directly on the bark will damage the roots. I'm thinking I should dissolve the granules in water and apply as a liquid.

Anyone know how much of the Bayer Systemic granules to use per gallon to both solve the insect issue and avoid damaging the plants?

Thanks in advance! I've really enjoyed browsing this forum, there is so much great information for newbies.

Edit to add:

I found a thread that indicated 1 tsp of Bayer 2 in1 Systemic Rose & Flower Care with .22% Imidclorprid per six inches of pot. I would prefer to dissolve the Bayer into water before applying. Has anyone tried that approach? I hate to risk my three little Phals.

[Zoi2]

Small sap bubbles on the spike could be normal. Have you taken a magnifying glass to your spike to see if you have bugs?
Joann

[msaar]

The granules should be applied directly to the top of the medium. If you want a liquid formulation you should buy one. The granules are a time-release formulation, designed to last 1 year. The dosage I have been given and used is 1 rounded teaspoon per 6" pot of the Tree & Shrub granules. It has a higher concentration of insecticide and lower concentration of fertilizer than the Rose formulation. I haven't heard any report of root damage from anyone actually using the product.

[ElenaMarie]

Originally Posted by Zoi2

Small sap bubbles on the spike could be normal. Have you taken a magnifying glass to your spike to see if you have bugs?
Joann

No, I haven't tried that. I did find a small dead fly--looked like a whitefly--on the leaf last night but one whitefly isn't going to cause that much sap I would guess.

Definitely no mealies or scale or aphids on it, though. I checked thoroughly for those little critters <insert derision here!>

I just hate to wait too long to address it, KWIM? I used the systemic on my roses for years as a preventative and had good success with it. Orchids seem almost a whole new universe!

Thanks and Happy New Year!

---------- Post added at 05:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:11 PM ----------

Originally Posted by msaar

The granules should be applied directly to the top of the medium. If you want a liquid formulation you should buy one. The granules are a time-release formulation, designed to last 1 year. The dosage I have been given and used is 1 rounded teaspoon per 6" pot of the Tree & Shrub granules. It has a higher concentration of insecticide and lower concentration of fertilizer than the Rose formulation. I haven't heard any report of root damage from anyone actually using the product.

Yeah, I probably ought to head out and find some liquid. I have the Bayer granules on hand and hoped I could use it (it seems destined to be a shelf ornament in my husband's shed.) With the bark medium I don't know how I'd keep those granules in the pot for any length of time.

Thanks!

[Ray]

Granular insecticides are designed for plants growing in soil. as the constant and relatively uniform moisture level spreads it around for absorption by the plant.

They are not nearly as effective in orchid media.

[silken]

Some flower spikes do produce sap drops naturally and it doesn't mean there are bugs. There has been a recent post on here of someone else whose Phal has these at the abscission points (where the bud meets the stem. My cymbidiums do it a lot. Also some cattleyas on the sheaths. Some aphids and whitefly do create a sticky sap, but that is different, so determine what you have first before using chemicals. If it is a nice round clear drop that looks like a water drop, it is likely just normal.

Having said that, if you really do have whitefly, they can be terrible to get rid of, but you would be seeing them quite easily.