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  #11  
Old 12-20-2011, 11:20 PM
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Bud Bud is offline
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It is very unlikely that you will have a virus...most orchid growers in Europe adhere to scientific procedures in cutting and repotting.
I would wonder where you would get the virus from? Your home will definitely not be the origin of a virus...unless you make it a habit to go out into the wilderness and bring home the virus to your home...

Chryss is correct the only way to know if you have a virus is by lab or home kit testing.

If it is not a bug infestation...then it is a mechanical defect...not a disease or a virus...

for precaution use a anti- bug home remedy that is cheap:

12 drops dish washing soap
1/2 teaspoon cinammon extract
2 cups tepid warm water

put it on a sprayer and spray the plants till soaking...repeat again the next week

soak the pot with the leftover liquid to kill the insect eggs

then water the plants with room temperature water from then on set aside a gallon of water overnight so it evaporates the chlorine and room temperature is set...no cold water for the vandas in winter...
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  #12  
Old 12-21-2011, 06:36 PM
drosera drosera is offline
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Help identify some leaves problems
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Hello
thanks again for all your replies.
Silken, Alliete is a systemic fungicide. While not a bacterial problem, it should work.
Merlyn, I know that the only sure way to detect a virus is through a test, and in fact I have already bought it. But I have never assured that it was a virus. I am not an expert, but the specific books and webs are full of descriptions of wich are the symptoms of the viruses, so when you do not have a test, is the only thing that you have.
Bud, I will try to follow your advice.

Thanks
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  #13  
Old 12-21-2011, 07:15 PM
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Bud Bud is offline
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let us all know the outcome of the test results for the virus...
also if you have lysol antibacterial anti virus and spray the tables where the orchids are placed(not the plants)...
whenever I bring to the sidewalk for my daylight outdoor pictures of the blooms...I spray the areas where my orchids are going to be positioned...you will never know what it can get in contact with
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  #14  
Old 12-21-2011, 11:24 PM
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Andre Andre is offline
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1455 Lonsdale Ave, North Vancouver, BC V7M, Canada



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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=49.321850,-123.072539
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  #15  
Old 12-23-2011, 06:11 PM
euplusia euplusia is offline
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Hello drosera,
I am from Germany and I have seen a lot of damages on cattleya leaves, that look very much the same to me. This occurs after chilling and is a so called mesophyll cell collapse. It becomes visible 1-2 months later. I am not surprised that now the symptoms on your plant become more intense. Superinfection by fungus may also occur. But there is no reason to panic.
Put the plant warmer and on a dryer place, switch off the humidifier for cattleyas in winter, give moving air and let the plant dry out a little between waterings.
If you want, google or do a picture search for mesophyll cell collapse to see if it matches your symptoms. But a diagnosis by pics will never be 100 percent safe.
There is good hope, that the damage is not as dangerous for the plant as it seems, and that the leaves of the next lead are healthy. Good luck.
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  #16  
Old 12-23-2011, 07:14 PM
drosera drosera is offline
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Hello Euplusia,
many thanks for your comments. I check some pics from internet and maybe it is this. I hope that with warmer
temps and using a fungicide the plants get better.
Bud, I 've used a physan solution in my growing area.
Thanks and merry christmas!!
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