Phal Yellow Leaves hopefully solved

[Celtic100]

Hi - I am new and think this looks like a terrific forum. I have been "playing" with orchids for about a dozen years and have brought mini-catts and dendrobiums to bloom each year but have absolutely NO luck with Phals. I bought a small one at Lowes around the beginning of Feb. All was fine until I noticed one of the leaves yellowing yesterday. I came to this forum and noticed most said to get it out of the sphag moss and into bark medium. (Many of the roots looked like rot was setting in so trimmed those). I got it into the bark and now have a couple of questions. 1. Any idea how long before I will see signs of life as in a new root shooting out of bark, and 2. how long before I should water again. I put it into soaked bark so that should stay at least damp for a while. I have it in a bright window - temp in house during day about 68 - at nite about 60. Thanks very much for any thoughts. Have attached a pict of one of my micro-catts - hope it makes it. Thanks again.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

1. It could be as soon as this spring or as long as up to a year before you see new growths of any kind (root, leaves, or otherwise).

2. Temperatures appear to be fine.

3. Phalaenopsis grow on trees underneath the swamp forest canopy, they receive dappled indirect light in the wild. in cultivation it should be placed in a similar lighting situation - in shade to bright shade. Under no circumstances should they be placed in a brightly lit area (as in they shouldn't be grown in the same light intensities that Cattleyas or Vandas enjoy), they can receive sunburn.

4. How's your humidity?

[Celtic100]

1. Wow - that's good to know. Shouldn't give up on it if it takes up to a year. I shan't.
2. Good.
3. In a bright window but backed up from the light source (shelf in cabinet - sort of hard to explain but I think o.k.) so sort of a bright shade situation.
4. Humidity dry in the winter - wood burning stove keeps it dry. Should I do a pebble dish with water? Also, in the summer, outside in the shade? Plenty of humidity in Massachusetts in the summer.
Lastly, should I let it really dry out before watering again? The watering thing is really tough for orchids, no matter what people say about their ease of cultivation - or is that the sellers that say that??? At any rate, appreciate your thoughts. Thanks again.

[Zoi2]

I have not found any phals that like to dry out between watering. They usually like to stay a bit moist. When the roots turn silvery white its time to water.
Joann

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

Originally Posted by Celtic100

4. Humidity dry in the winter - wood burning stove keeps it dry. Should I do a pebble dish with water?

I recommend a cool mist humidifier. I think it's more effective than the pebble dish.

Originally Posted by Celtic100

Also, in the summer, outside in the shade?

It's fine if the temperatures are warm enough and don't drop below 60 F at night. Humidity is also another factor to take into consideration.

Originally Posted by Celtic100

Plenty of humidity in Massachusetts in the summer.

I suggest getting a humidity meter, it lets you know what you're dealing with.

Originally Posted by Celtic100

Lastly, should I let it really dry out before watering again?

And your answer is...

Originally Posted by Zoi2

I have not found any phals that like to dry out between watering. They usually like to stay a bit moist. When the roots turn silvery white its time to water.

Joann

Agreed.

Originally Posted by Celtic100

The watering thing is really tough for orchids, no matter what people say about their ease of cultivation - or is that the sellers that say that??? At any rate, appreciate your thoughts.

The answer to this question really depends on what kind of orchid you're talking about, how they're being cultivated, and the environment they're being cultivated in. Everything about this question wreaks of context. Some of the contextual factors or issues may seem like minutia but it pays off to pay attention to that minutia sometimes.

This also depends on your skill and experience as a grower.

Of course, if you understand what the orchid's natural environment is like (where it grows in the wild), it shouldn't be too big of an issue. There might still be a little experimentation, but it won't be a complete mystery either.

As for Phalaenopsis, the evergreen ones (if you're reading between the lines, you read correctly, there are deciduous Phalaenopsis) are found growing on trees with little to no moss, positioned horizontally or pendulously (not vertically), in low to mid-land tropical Asian swamp forests, or near rivers or streams.

Check out the following link and you'll see what I mean.

http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=Phalaenopsis+in+situ

Originally Posted by Celtic100

Thanks again.

You're welcome.

[Judi]

With all the discussions on this board about not letting phals dry between waterings, I have been watering more often. Watering needs depend on conditions in the home and type of pots and media used. I water maybe every 4-5 days; I grow my phals in plastic pots with slits in the sides as well as good drainage holes in the bottom; I grow in a bark mix that is always fresh (repot time is 1 to 1 1/2 yrs)--fresh bark dries faster than older medium, so the I find I have to water more often after a repot. I also use K-L-N, a rooting medium for most of my chids as well as a weak fertalizer. I have good luck with this regimen.

[orchidlvr2]

I use pebble trays and humidity trays. The latter is helpful because I don't need to add water as often. Phals are relatively easy to bloom but I have found that you need a day/night temperature differential of 10-20 degrees to get them to bud. I have put mine outside in the fall for a couple of weeks (I live in central Illinois) in order to get that nice drop. Hope this helps.

[Celtic100]

Originally Posted by orchidlvr2

I use pebble trays and humidity trays. The latter is helpful because I don't need to add water as often. Phals are relatively easy to bloom but I have found that you need a day/night temperature differential of 10-20 degrees to get them to bud. I have put mine outside in the fall for a couple of weeks (I live in central Illinois) in order to get that nice drop. Hope this helps.

I was thinking about your reply as I struggle to get that temp diff. (I think I have found it btw) Anyway, you indicate that you get that drop for only a couple of weeks in the fall. Is that enough? I know I can get it now in the location I've chosen but know it will change with the seasons/sun movement. Thanks for your input.