Worries for a bacterial infection on 3 orchids

[Viperalus]

On the 30th of December I received three orchids that came from a seller in the same package. Now, I have noticed yellow leaves and brown spots on these three orchids and I am worrying that they might be a bacterial infection. A week ago the leaves of both Bulbophyllums were green with no spots and now they are like you see in the photos.

As about the Bifrenaria aureo-fulva, there were some small brown spots when I received it on 30th of December as you can see at the photo below:



You can see all the photos of the orchids at this link. By pressing the tab "all sizes" you can view larger images.
You can view them also at the Slideshow if you find it difficult to browse to the other images.

I worry that it maybe could spread to all the other orchids that I have. I keep them all together and very close to each other, yet the Burrageara Nelly Isler doesn't seemed affected (not at all brown spots and/or yellow leaves). And she is next to the Bulbophyllum dearei.

[cirillonb]

I am most suspicious of the first one on Flickr. That big leaf does not look good. The second one could be a different problem but the yellow leaves are lost. They could be just normal loss on that plant. The third is less of concern if the tip is dry. If moist, that is not good. The picture inserted into your message looks OK to me but I may be missing the spots of which you speak. I do see the yellow discoloration at the base of the leftmost leaf but doesn't look too bad.
I have had miserable luck taking care of bacterial infections so take what I say accordingly. What I do is cut off the offending leaf. If only a distant part of the leaf is involved, I cut that off (sterilized tools of course.) The I treat the area with hydrogen peroxide and drench the medium with the same. If these are in original medium, this would be a good time to repot. After that I watch closely. I may drench the crown and the medium with hydrogen peroxide daily for several days. Of course, isolate the plants and in your instance from each other as well.
good luck.
hopefully someone else will answer who has better luck with this.
Nick
PS I would notify the vendor of the problem enclosing photos.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

I'll answer the easy question first...

1. Bulbophyllum...

First off what are the identities to your two Bulbophyllums?

I think your problem with these is that it is grown much too wet!

I mount all of my Bulbophyllums.

I really don't recommend growing your Bulbos in a piece of plastic tuperware with a bunch of moss like that.

There are pics of Bulbophyllums growing in the wild. You should check those out.

Generally speaking (since I don't know the identity of your plants), Bulbos grow wet during the spring and summer months. Then they receive much less water during the fall and winter months.

Don't dry out your Bulbophyllums during the cooler months though! They should sporadically receive some water. By sporadic I mean once a week or once every two weeks.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

2. Bifrenaria aureo-fulva.

If they were grown wet all year round, the problem you're having with the new shoots damping off occurs.

They're from an area that has a distinct dry season. Don't worry your plant isn't dead yet. If it's as tough as I think it is, it should pull through.

Just don't water it anymore.

Wait until spring. Then go nuts with the watering.

Well...

Water often, but allow a dry out period.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

I'm not so sure about your Bulbos pulling through though. I think they're done.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

Oops!

Correction, only one of them appears to be finished.

The other is still alright.

Sorry.

[Viperalus]

Due to this reason, I am replying late.

The IDs of the plants are written on each photo. There is a frame on the right with a left and right arrow, to browse through images (previous and next photos).

I was watering the Bifrenaria aureo-fulva every 4-5 days and very-very slightly, only droplets of water and it was in a non-heated room.

Continuing on Bifrenaria aureo-fulva, I worry for the brown spot on her leaf and the sudden change of color of the new (small) leaf.
I have cut them both to stop the infection from spreading on the rest of the plant.

Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:)

Oops!

Correction, only one of them appears to be finished.

The other is still alright.

Sorry.

Do you mean that the Bulbophyllum blumei:

has no future? (note, these yellow leaves on the left are no longer there, they felt off)
*worries*

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

Bulb blumei may be hard pressed to bounce back.

Mount it and see if you luck out. But I highly doubt it'll make it.

Bifrenaria aureo-fulva can stand to go without water for longer and not have any ill effects.

Yeah, that server being down frustrated me a lot. What can you do.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

You know what...

I was looking at your Bulb dearei, and I was wondering...

How much are you fertilizing?

Fertilization for the Bifrenaria aureo-fulva should be eliminated during the cooler months.

Fertilization for the Bulbophyllums should be drastically reduced during the cooler months. This means the concentration and the frequency.

The Bulb. dearei looks like it's suffering from leaf tip burn. This is caused by excess dissolved minerals and nutrients in the water.

What kind of water are you using?

[Viperalus]

Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:)

Bulb blumei may be hard pressed to bounce back.

Mount it and see if you luck out. But I highly doubt it'll make it.

Bifrenaria aureo-fulva can stand to go without water for longer and not have any ill effects.

Thanks, I will mount it to see how it will do.

As for the Bifrenaria aureo-fulva, do you think that it will be a big shock for her having her bigger leaf cut-off?
Here is an older photo from a different angle:

That bigger leaf hanging on the left, is no longer exists.

Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:)

You know what...

I was looking at your Bulb dearei, and I was wondering...

How much are you fertilizing?

Fertilization for the Bifrenaria aureo-fulva should be eliminated during the cooler months.

Fertilization for the Bulbophyllums should be drastically reduced during the cooler months. This means the concentration and the frequency.

The Bulb. dearei looks like it's suffering from leaf tip burn. This is caused by excess dissolved minerals and nutrients in the water.

What kind of water are you using?

I fertilized on Monday and the previous fertilization was 35 days ago.

I use tap water both in watering and misting.

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