Leaf issues - Orchid Board

Louis_C · #1 10-21-2009, 04:54 AM

Some of my orchids new and orchid have some leaf spots on it. I'm curious are they something serious.

Mtdm. Rosy Sunset I just got myself last Sat. Southland Orchids Show
I notice most leafs with this kind of spot is on the leafs near the top of the bulbs.
I believe the spot is dry and the spot is too small to feel it. This Mtdm. also hv streak near those spots. I divide and pot into S/H
Sunburn or blackspot?
I used to have lots of Oncidium with some sort of spot or black thing on it. Are they normal?

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Lowe's Bllr. purchase in Sep/Aug
Got it as discount orchid with potting mix spilled ll over but the plant is fine. Those spot seem innocent to me.
Underneath

Top

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Neo.
Black spot/ Sun burn/ Fertilizer burn/ Fungus?
I keep this underneath CFL desk lamp. It seems to be dormant or growing slow for me I fertilizer 1/8 or 1/4 Schultz Orchids feed almost everytimes I water.

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A Sedirea seeding die since last week
I assume those are snail bite. If it is there other other option beside beear and commercial bait? I heard pet food dry kibble work as well/

Anyone could provide me some idea what happening and any treatment recommended. I'm going to look for cinnamon powder from 99cents only few day later since they sold out already.

Des · #2 10-21-2009, 05:19 AM

I think that it may be a systemic fungal infection, cinnamon wont cure this . You need a systemic fungicide. your local garden centre should be able to advise you what to use .

camille1585 · #3 10-21-2009, 07:17 AM

Oncidiums are very susceptible to getting spots if they wet their leaves wet. I had that on mine as well. However, avoiding to wet the leaves, and good air circulation completely solved the problem. But like Des says, with so many plants having spots it could be a larger issue. Treating it is one thing, but you also need to act preventatively by having a look at your culture. Lack of air flow, especially in somewhat humid conditions or on wet plants, will often lead to the problems you are having. That's also why I avoid watering in the evening, since any water on the plants during the night leads to problems sometimes. Sometimes I don't have a choice and water before bedtime, and as a result one of my Neos lost several leaves to spots similar to what yours has.

King_of_orchid_growing:) · #4 10-22-2009, 02:59 AM

I don't think the Sedirea japonica suffered from snail bites. I think it's the same problem you had with the Mtdm Rosy Sunset.

The leaf spotting on the Mtdm Rosy Sunset is not sunburn.

Des and Camille are right, cinnamon won't help the problem. In fact cinnamon may create more issues.

For right now my opinion is that the Mtdm doesn't seem to be in any danger of dying. I'd just keep an eye out for it and see if your Mtdm Rosy Sunset gets any worse. I think that Des and Camille gave you good advise and maybe you should try those out should you feel uneasy about the situation.

Camille also gave you good info on preventative measures to avoid leaf spotting in the future.

And yes, orchids in the Oncidium Alliance with strap leaves seem to be prone to this kind of leaf spotting.

Although I can't really see how you were growing the Sedirea japonica seedling, I think the death is due to cultural practices that don't suit it.

If you can please divulge more growing details in regards to the Sedirea japonica seedling, perhaps I or the many others here may have some insight as to what you may do in the future should you decide to try a Sedirea japonica seedling again.

You know, the usual info:

Lighting
Watering regimen
Type of water
Air circulation
Humidity
Temperature
Growing method
Growing media
Fertilizer
Fertilizer regimen

(If someone can think of something else please chime in.)

Although, I do highly suggest buying a blooming sized Sedirea japonica instead. If you know how to grow a Phal, you can grow a Sedirea japonica. In fact, in my opinion, Sedirea japonica is much easier to grow than any Phal, hybrid or species.

Just my

for the info on the Sedirea japonica.

Louis_C · #5 10-22-2009, 04:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:)

I don't think the Sedirea japonica suffered from snail bites. I think it's the same problem you had with the Mtdm Rosy Sunset.

The leaf spotting on the Mtdm Rosy Sunset is not sunburn.

Des and Camille are right, cinnamon won't help the problem. In fact cinnamon may create more issues.

For right now my opinion is that the Mtdm doesn't seem to be in any danger of dying. I'd just keep an eye out for it and see if your Mtdm Rosy Sunset gets any worse. I think that Des and Camille gave you good advise and maybe you should try those out should you feel uneasy about the situation.

Camille also gave you good info on preventative measures to avoid leaf spotting in the future.

And yes, orchids in the Oncidium Alliance with strap leaves seem to be prone to this kind of leaf spotting.

Although I can't really see how you were growing the Sedirea japonica seedling, I think the death is due to cultural practices that don't suit it.

If you can please divulge more growing details in regards to the Sedirea japonica seedling, perhaps I or the many others here may have some insight as to what you may do in the future should you decide to try a Sedirea japonica seedling again.

You know, the usual info:

Lighting
Watering regimen
Type of water
Air circulation
Humidity
Temperature
Growing method
Growing media
Fertilizer
Fertilizer regimen

(If someone can think of something else please chime in.)

Although, I do highly suggest buying a blooming sized Sedirea japonica instead. If you know how to grow a Phal, you can grow a Sedirea japonica. In fact, in my opinion, Sedirea japonica is much easier to grow than any Phal, hybrid or species.

Just my

for the info on the Sedirea japonica.

The new Mtmd. Rosy Sunet and Bllra. are come that way.

But here are some info.
Mtd. Rosy I divide and potted into 2 plants and 1 backbulb in s/h yesterday in purely Hydroton w/o fertilzer yet. 1 of the plant's new growth have lots of spot on it but it still greenish yellow hasn't turn brown. Is it a bad call to convert to s/h before soak it into fungicide?
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Bllr. are potted in maybe 1:1 (or 1:3 I need to check my note book)sphagnum moss and pumice. I kept it on top of the fireplace(never use it). It receive pretty low light from blinds. I water it when the surface of the moss isn't moist but not completely dry. Air circulation we sometimes keep door open. Sometimes I mist during noon or sunset when I'm back from school. So far the bulbs has no new growth and the bulb remain wrinkles but far from being dry.
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Neo "Amami Furan"
Is potted in the original net pot with center and bottom fll with packing peanut. The plant is wrap with sphagnum moss in the Japanese dome style. I water it under it completely dry-out usually 5~6 o'clock when I'm back to school. I sometimes mist during 4~6 o'clock. It inside a sun room place right next to window that kept open most of the time. I kept it pretty much on top of the infected Sedirea.
**My guess: I mist and water at the wrong time?
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Sedirea
are in net pot wrap by purely sphagnum. Few week ago I repot them and add a piece of bark at the center. The infected seedling the one I showed die shortly after that.I allow it to dry completely before watering and I re potted cuz i believe the sphagnum kept to moist ( or i pack to tight). Next to Neo. and same method.
**My guess: too dry and too wet.
I think I miss my chance buy cheap and health Sedirea since Southland orchids show. I can't think of else where in L.A. I will keep looking for mature Sedirea.
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I water all of my Orchids and AF in R/O water and fertilizer with Schultz Orchids feed.
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I'm very confuse about disease in plants and I don't know how to ask without confusing you guys. So improper cultivate will make them get infected doesn't hv to be another infected orchids sitting next to it like how flu spread. Healthy orchids have those spores inside the bark mix and they wait improper misting and watering to attack? Even all my plants are healthy is it possible fungal spore carry from wind and infect my plants
I collect orchids also interested to propagate, pollinate and flask them. So is that mean I'm not suppose to use these plants? Like HIV once you get it, you stick with it through your entire life. If I "cure" it should I not suppose to trade or sell it even no symptoms are showing up again for years?Dose it "dormant" inside the plants and wait until water at night then start destroying. I'm curious how roses and orchids breeder bred their plants disease-free and mass propagate... ARS require those new roses variety to be disease-free to enter the trial. They grow it in sterile environment?

I also prune away the infect on my Mtmd. Rosy Sunset with scissor I flame it between plant. Should I do it between bulbs? I heard rubbing it with alcohol is ineffective (the way I used to do it. Should it change).

Thank you guys

!

camille1585 · #6 10-22-2009, 05:03 AM

Yes it it possible for spores from one plant to infect others. But one important thing for fungal spores to germinate on a new plant is that they need moisture. Proper air flow will limit that moisture on the plants, and the spore has less of a chance of germinating.
There is no reason for you to not breed these orchids. It's not genetic, and unlike some viruses they won't infect the seeds. Anyoffspring will be healthy, providing they are grown in the right conditions. Also don't forget that even once you have treated the orchids and killed the fungi, the leaf lesions will remain for the rest of the leaf's life. They can't heal the way we do. And like human diseases, the only ones that stay your entire life are usually viral.

Rose and orchid breeders don't really have problems with propagating. Most orchids are propagated in vitro from meristems or tissu culture, so those will be healthy. Meristem propagation is also a great way to produce healthy plants form virused ones, since meristems are usually the only virus free part of a plant (the cell division there is too intense for the virus to keep up). Rose breeders also multiply healthy plants through grafting. But usually in breeding, if they notice a few potential varieties that are diseases, they will cull those out, as susceptibility/resistance to disease can be a criteria for selection or non selection of a cross.

King_of_orchid_growing:) · #7 10-22-2009, 08:25 AM

I just checked the N-P-K ratio of the Schultz Orchid Fertilizer.

Is it 19-31-17? And is it urea free?

If it is 19-31-17, then I believe the Phosphorous ratio may be too high.

If it contains urea, that's another problem as well. Urea needs water and soil to break down and become usable for your orchids. Most commonly grown orchids don't grow in soil, so any urea based fertilizer is pretty much useless.

As far as how the Sedirea japonica seedling was grown is concerned, I believe that leaving it in the net pot wrapped completely in sphagnum moss was what caused it to die. It probably would've been better if it was grown in small grade wood chips and a bit of moss on top.

Blooming sized Sedirea japonica is not hard to find. Oak Hill Gardens has them for $15. Just fill the rest of the order up with cheap $4 to $6 orchids to spread the shipping cost thinner and you're set.

As a heads up, I'd stay away from Chaubardia and Pescatorea for now, even though they're inexpensive. My recommendation if you were to purchase from Oak Hill Gardens is that you get the Sedirea japonica and keep the rest of your plants in the order simple, like Cattleyas or Laelias. Fewer headaches, and you get what you want.

camille1585 · #8 10-22-2009, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:)

As far as how the Sedirea japonica seedling was grown is concerned, I believe that leaving it in the net pot wrapped completely in sphagnum moss was what caused it to die. It probably would've been better if it was grown in small grade wood chips and a bit of moss on top.

It's not necessarily what caused it to die. People who are huge fans of japanese orchids often potted them up the traditional japanese way, like the way Neofinetia are potted. I had a Sedirea potted in a sphag moss mound, and it did great, and had terrific root growth. Sadly I lost it over the summer while on vacation. A relative who was supposed to care for the plants forgot to water this one.

King_of_orchid_growing:) · #9 10-22-2009, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camille1585

It's not necessarily what caused it to die. People who are huge fans of japanese orchids often potted them up the traditional japanese way, like the way Neofinetia are potted. I had a Sedirea potted in a sphag moss mound, and it did great, and had terrific root growth. Sadly I lost it over the summer while on vacation. A relative who was supposed to care for the plants forgot to water this one.

Okay...

If that's the case, then I'm at a loss.

All I have to contribute is that I don't think the fungus is what killed the Sedirea japonica. Sure, the fungal infection was pretty bad, but from what I've seen of my own collection, it doesn't necessarilly cause death; it just looks ugly.

The only thing I can think of is that it may have been a long standing issue to begin with. This doesn't seem to be an immediate death.

Maybe it was grown too warm and didn't have enough air circulation, idk.

If Louis C lives close to where I live, he is actually able to grow Sedirea japonica outdoors all year round with no problems nor would he have to resort to using any kind of tricks whatsoever.

Same goes for the Neofinetia falcata, as well as Neostylis, (should he choose to get this beautiful intergeneric hybrid). Outdoors all year round, no problems, no tricks, pretty straight forward.