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  #1  
Old 06-17-2024, 09:36 PM
Brock Brock is offline
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Plant was getting worse no necrosis until I used bacterialcide. Removed all the infected tissue when first applied bacterialcide.
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  #2  
Old 06-17-2024, 09:39 PM
Brock Brock is offline
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I'm having a security token issue uploading more then one photo. This plant is in the same place can't find original thread. Three new growths plant was getting worse its next to a baby less then a year old cattleya that isn't infected
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  #3  
Old 06-17-2024, 09:42 PM
Brock Brock is offline
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Progressively got worse
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  #4  
Old 06-17-2024, 09:52 PM
Brock Brock is offline
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Can't find a lab to have it tested for viruses. Never dealt with a sick plant never seen anything like this. Treated it as acidovorax cattleyae. Tried to do as much research on that bacterium. I can find a picture of the first new growth. Everything seems find assumed the infection? Was "contained" once the new growth started developing started looking rough no ooze. Sprayed it with a copper based bacterialcide. Thought maybe the first black I saw was the infected tissue dying got worse and worse. Not sure if there's any saving it seed pods stopped developing after I sprayed it. As you can see even the infected tissue I removed with a sterile blade each cut treated fresh cuts necrosis is getting worse.
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  #5  
Old 06-18-2024, 01:31 AM
greyblackfish greyblackfish is offline
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I took a look at another thread you posted about this cattleya. I thought I might chime in with something. Your cattleya leaf problem may be tied to this. I don’t think your orchid has a disease at all. In fact I think it’s very simple. You may have been burning your cattleyas very gradually. I took my cattleyas out this spring under mostly cloudy weather so I let direct sun hit the leaves on occasion. Some of the older leaves started getting spots. One of the spots on your leaves in the other thread shows apparent signs of leaf burn. Your orchid doesn’t look like it has a disease at all.

Your orchid leaves don’t need to be cut when the tissue dies. Especially if it isn’t healthy, no amount of cutting back to the good tissue will callus the leaf like on a succulent, the leaf will die back more each time.

Another thing, a cattleya with a seed pod will be very delicate. I don’t have experience myself but that’s what I’ve read. They have to be pretty strong in order to sustain itself and a seed pod.

Anyway, if you remove it from the harsh light, it might make a recovery.
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  #6  
Old 06-18-2024, 07:33 AM
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I have a dendrobium thats doing great maybe its a high light hybrid. I have seen Cattleya with sun burn. Someone said have it tested for viruses. I have had it in the same spot thought it wasn't getting enough light. I had two full sun pitcher plants that weren't receiving enough light from this location. In the past I've only seen plants stretch for sun not to avoid it. Again I have had a tiny Cattleya of the same species do fine. I sprayed it with fungicide fine then the bacterialcide turned black. Thank you for your help. Not sure if having no leafs can the plant use photosynthesis the new leaves should have been able to.
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  #7  
Old 06-18-2024, 07:45 AM
Brock Brock is offline
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Thank you for at least trying to help. I can move it but if it is sick I have limited space
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  #8  
Old 06-18-2024, 08:55 AM
Brock Brock is offline
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It got worse after I sprayed with a copper based bacterialcide i sprayed a fungicide it had no affect. The fungicide was sold to me as a bacterialcide. I made sure to get a bacterialcide the second time I will change the light. Its on a covered porch with morning light no other orchid in this area is receiving too much light. I guess the brown on the bulbs could be considered sunburn. There was no sunburn on the bulbs. There weren't any black spots on the pods until I sprayed with the bacterialcide. I was worried about this plant not getting enough light. I will bring it inside use a window if it continues to die is there any other recommendations?
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  #9  
Old 06-18-2024, 10:59 AM
greyblackfish greyblackfish is offline
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Maybe it is diseased. I’ve just seen the same spots on my cattleya that wasn’t adjusted slowly to more light. It’s new growths are doing fine and don’t have the blemishes. I’ll share a few pictures of my orchid sunburns. It is curious that your dendrobiums are doing fine. I also moved my dendrobiums outside for the first time last year and they fried even faster than the cattleya. Although once adjusted, my dendrobiums can take more light than my cattleyas. Most of my orchids are not mature so maybe that has something to do with it. It would take someone with more experience to say something. I only have 3 years here. Best of luck, I hope it survives.
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  #10  
Old 06-18-2024, 04:00 PM
rbarata rbarata is offline
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For future Catts, in case that one doesn't make it...the medium you're using is not suitable for Catts (or any other epiphytes in general).
They need air all around the roots and the medium you're using doesn't allow it.
Use coarse bark instead.
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