Regimen for thrips and predatory mite compatibility

[ViolinFin]

Little yellow thrip larvae appeared in a decent number on my philodendrons and now they appeared in small numbers on my blooming cattleyas and dendrobiums. Still have yet to see an adult thrip anywhere. How they spread so widely in my living room without multiple adults has me flabbergasted...

As I hate them more than any pest and I want them perma-dead, I ordered two pesticides:
"Monterey Insect Spray w/ Spinosad" concentrate and "Azamax" concentrate (Azadirachtin A & B) as my heavy hitters.

I have already started treating the philodendrons with insecticidal soaps(with Spinosad) and neem oil as I wait for the shipment to arrive.
I didn't want to mess too much with the orchids yet until the shipment arrives and I have heard that neem is not great against thrips,
So I went out and bought some predatory mite satchets specialized in thrip killing today and put them on my orchids while I have them all within a "salt-circle" I made out of Diatomaceous Earth to keep crawlers out. It looks hilarious, but hopefully effective.

So my question is, how likely am I to kill all of the nice little mites I hired if I apply Spinosad and Azamax to my orchids?
Can I do a soil/substrate drench/dip in the insecticides to prevent the mites from being harmed?

Also, what kind of regimen would you recommend to treat my orchids with if I am to use both? Do I treat with both at once? Or one at a time?

[Roberta]

I don't have a lot of expertise on these, but I think in general, pesticides and those predatory mites are not compatible. The pesticides aren't specific, they'll kill the mites along with the thrips... I suggest that you let those little mites do their job, and just keep an eye on things... you will have the pesticides handy if the mites turn out to not be up to the job, but let them try. Give them a chance. Integrated pest management isn't as quick as pesticide application, but more durable.

If the mites get the thrips under control, then they're likely to have a much more lasting effect because they'll get all the various life stages of their target.

[Dimples]

I’m all for IPM and natural predators, but maintaining an effective population of mites in a small indoor collection is going to require repeated shipments. Definitely give it a try if you want to, but be prepared to step in with a pesticide if you’re not seeing improvement.

[ViolinFin]

Is there anything I can do in tandem with the predatory mites to help fully eradicate the thrips?

The long waiting game is fine with me, albeit I am impatient as heck. I just want to make sure they all DIE

[Dimples]

If full eradication is your goal, predatory mites aren’t the best choice. Beneficials are used to control pest populations, which keeps them below the threshold where damage is economically harmful/noticeable. They help balance the pests.

Pesticides are a better choice if you want to knock down the population significantly. Repeat treatments are important.

[Ray]

Azamax is a good product. It is more of an "antifeedant" and digestion disruptor than a toxin, per se, but it is systemic.

Most insecticides kill insects but not mites, but Azamax kills both.

Thoroughly spray all exposed surfaces of all plants weekly for 3 applications. That ought to do it.

[estación seca]

If you have thrips outside in your environment you will never eliminate them inside your house. In that situation focus on control and not elimination.

[Bloomer001]

Oils applied in the soil once every 3 weeks are generally effective against thrips larvae, which occur in the soil. Oils are less effective against adult populations. I use parrafin oil (2% solution max.) Mix the oil with a few drops of soap in 98% water solution. Parrafin oil is less harmful to plants when used on leaf applications bc it is thinner than neem oil. Oils work physically, via suffocation of pests. Pests cannot adapt to applications that kill via physical means. On the other hand, most pests can adapt to agents that kill via chemical means.

Keep in mind plants breathe through their leaves. Accordingly, too much oil will suffocate the leaf. Be sparing with oil applications (2% max strength). I only apply to leaves a maximum of once or twice (depending on pest's life cycle) in a 3 month period. Roots are more tolerant.

[Roberta]

What orchids are you growing in soil? Or, how do you define "soil"? You would not want to get oil anywhere near the roots.

[realoldbeachbum]

Azamax has saved my orchid collection.