Newly purchased onoine Cattleya, diseased need refund or not?

[orchidhope]

Ive attached jpg photos. Purchased my first online orchid Cattleya Chief 'Sweet Orange'and researched/read all that I should do: quarantine, treat, etc. and I have come to notice the black at base of the new shoot (sarong) and then there also is a raised crusty-looking black circle with beige center on leaf - the mark does not penetrate the tissue on the underside just a bit darker from the shadow showing through. This collectively alarmed me that the Cattleya was diseased but then on the opposite of the worst of the black at the base of the new shoot (sarong), are two fresh green nubbins - roots or other? A jpg photo of that is attached as well.

Do I ask for my money back concerned this is not a healthy plant that is going to survive?

I also just noticed an old overgrown Cattleya I own with at least five new shoots/sarongs and they also have black around their bases.

I'm confused at what I am seeing here. Please educate me on whether this is normal or a fungus/disease and I should seek a refund.

[Louis_W]

To my eye your plant looks very normal. Its normal to have a little wear and tear, and your plant has scabbed over just fine. Its also normal for tissues to dry up and become crusty and black.

Personally I wouldnt be concerned about anything in the photos. On the contrary the new growth looks strong and healthy!

[orchidhope]

Thank you Louis. Would you elaborate please on just what portion you feel has “scabbed over”?

Want to understand what I’m looking at and so appreciate your shared helpful opinion but want to more fully understand it as I had been wondering if the black portion at the shoot base was just a secondary covering that might die off after serving it’s purpose if that is what you’re actually referring too.

[estación seca]

When orchids are scraped or poked the wounds often wind up looking like that.

The medium looks very dry. How are you watering it, and how often?

[orchidhope]

LOUIS,

I suspected you were talking about the hardening of the spot and I had done some reading that could be from a scrape or cut. I'm beginning to think chemical companies are putting fear into us about black rot and I overreacted.

The online orchid arrived in a smallish bark medium, I topped with moist New Zealand Sphagnum moss to encourage rooting and I am spritzing that top moss daily. I did not repot because I have read Cattleya roots are some of the most sensitive of orchid species. I had also read that Cattelyas like to dry out completly between watering so not rushing soaking the bark, which when I water I will submerge it entirely below leaves on stem with fresh tap water for 8 minutes. (Florida Keys, decent water quality and have a whole house water filter.). Since it arrived 7 days ago I have not rewatered and it is in a shaded area for root growth rather than dappled sun for leaf growth. Rather a newbie at this but applying myself with more research every day.

Thanks again for your help.

[estación seca]

We have members from the Keys and south Florida who may respond. I suspect once a week isn't enough water.

[Louis_W]

Originally Posted by orchidhope

Cattleya roots are some of the most sensitive of orchid species.

In my opinion this is really not true. Healthy Cattleya roots are large and robust, and they can handle a pretty wide variety of conditions. I agree with estacion seca, you are probably not watwring quite enough.

[orchidhope]

Appreciate the watering opinions but I had read so much about waterlogged roots and that under watering is better than over watering so perhaps I am too much on the safe side. I use clear plastic pots and do not water my 29 Phalaenopsis until I can see silvery-green roots and they all bloomed this year. . The orchids purchased locally I almost always repot immediately they are usually packed so tight in degraded bark or moss without any aeration and many roots mushy. My clear plastic pots have the slits or holes for better air circulation. But this new plant has no visible mature roots through the bark medium so I have to guess and did not want to over water. (I did gently move it from its thin plastic pot to a slitted clear orchid pot and roots were not bad.)

I too have always thought many orchids were pretty tough and not as fragile as represented by many online "whoevers?"

And yes, I have already had a reply from Keysguy on another post so I am a so pleased to have found this board and know there are members from the Keys.

Extremely helpful, and thanks again for the watering opinions.

[estación seca]

Different orchids need different amounts of water. Phals use less water during the growing season than do Catts, especially in high humidity environments. For best growth I should water Catt seedlings in moss or fine bark almost every day in my humid sunroom, while similarly sized Phals are fine with one or two waterings a week. Catt seedlings especially should not dry for long when pushing new growth. I try to keep mine at least moist, and not let them dry.

Surprisingly, Phals tolerate chronic underwatering far longer than do Catts. I have seen many old, wrinkled and never-repotted Phals in homes of people who rarely water them. They don't flower and rarely make new leaves. Catts will make new growth in season with or without water. If not watered the growth turns black and dies. After not many attempts the plant dies. Phals can make new growth whenever temperatures are correct, so they just sit there indefinitely until they have enough water.

[orchidhope]

Yes, watering is an integral part of successful orchid care. I do not follow the calendar or count days to decided when to water but instead am much more hands/eyes on, as there are different mediums (although I will try to transition entirely to sphagnum moss as my orchids have done amazingly well with it,) I have mostly clear plastic aerated pots, a few clay orchid (with holes) pots as I have read dendobrium roots do not like sun exposure and do not contribute to photosynthesis so best to keep them covered...some pots are quite small others much larger so each orchid has different needs, and I judge the weight of the plant, the condition of the leaves and whether there is new growth, and the color of visible roots in clear plastic to decide when to water. They each get my personal attention. I have about 6 dendobriums (some in baskets with no medium that are doing quite well with minimal care, probably 6 cattleyas one or two bursting with new shoots, an oncidium or two and 20+ phals. THey are a pleasure to care for and enjoy, so I appreciate any and all comments for better care. Thanks all who have contributed. And my newest online purchase I was most concerned about, is thriving with another new shoot peaking out.