Black colouration within Phal leaves. Virus? Magnesium deficiency? - Orchid Board

Clay_pot · #1 08-20-2020, 11:25 AM

This discoloration appeared on one of my NoID Phalaenopsis at the beginning of July, it is only on the first new leaf of grew this year. It then appeared on another NoID phal about a month later. I purchased them both at the same time in January, so they are from the same shipment. It hasn't spread to older leaves, or my two minis, and has only appears on the first new leaf from this year, on both plants, the newer leaves dont have it yet.

I've looked through a few resources and think it js either a virus or a magnesium deficiency but I have next to no experience with orchids. Anyone have any thoughts?

They have an LED light 10 hours a day, water with city water that sits out for whole night. Soaked usually for 15 minutes at most an hour if I forget them. Fertilized with 15-5-5, biweekly.

SouthPark · #2 08-20-2020, 07:03 PM

It should be ok. From the looks of it - as long as there's no nasty looking activity - such as round circles and alien looking patterns on the leaf, and if the leaves remain glossy and no softening in portions of leaves, then it should be ok.

Everyone once in a while - if you currently don't introduce mag-cal treatments and fertiliser treatments ----- then just go ahead and provide some. Some people use weak applications every couple of weeks --- some every week. I just apply once a month - weak application.

The patches you see is not necessarily a deficiency though. Could be just due to pigmentation developing there - like purple hues, dark purple etc. Lighting can influence that kind of thing. It can be just normal. Eg. the dark bits could be just normal, while the lighter portion is just due to whatever the chlorophyl is doing in that region.

Clawhammer · #3 08-20-2020, 07:46 PM

Looks normal to me

estación seca · #4 08-20-2020, 10:18 PM

Often distal leaf splitting in Phals means not enough water.

SouthPark · #5 08-21-2020, 02:27 PM

ES's better-than-eagle eye(s) definitely draws attention to the split leaf and the dry appearance of the bark/media.

Clay_pot - how do you do the 'soaking'? Do you submerge the whole pot (with the bark in it) in a tub of water for 15 mins or so?

When did that leaf split? Is that a heater/radiator nearby? If the pot does dry out faster than expected - then compensate by watering a bit more.

If you don't mind watering frequently - then one way to water is to maintain lightly damp bark, and then water (whenever you like) in the region roughly marked out in the pic.

Also, very dry bark (or bark that dries out) takes a while to re-hydrate (and get water into it). So too short a soak, or water running too rapidly down through dry bark media can result in bark not getting quite enough water into it.

Clay_pot · #6 08-21-2020, 07:19 PM

Thanks everyone. Happy to hear it could be normal.

The leaf split when it was only a few inches long, it didn't progress much after that. It may have been left in the pot of water too long and I assumed it was an increase of water pressure in the leaf that caused it to split.

The heat hasn't been on the last 3 or 4 months, and I block that heater in the winter to try and reduce how much it impacts them.

They usually sit in water for 15 minutes. The media dries fairly quickly, which is why I try and mist the top daily or every other day.

estación seca · #7 08-21-2020, 08:19 PM

What are your day/night temperatures?

Leaf splitting is caused by drying out, not by too much water.

Don't mist leaves. They can't absorb water. It promotes fungus and bacterial infection. If you want higher humidity, get a humidifier. Trays of pebbles and water don't raise humidity in a room.

If a plant needs more water, water more often.