Is this root rot or a bacterial infection or bugs or all three?

[elaerna]

Originally Posted by DrDawn

Sending support, we will help you get this orchid back to blooming, even if it takes a little while.

Thank you. I just want it to stay alive. Since the orchid grower cut off the leaves yesterday it seems the remaining ones are yellowing a bit slower. I am noticing now that where he cut one of the leaves seems to be turning yellow. Is that indicative of crown rot? 06/09/2020 - Album on Imgur

It was watered yesterday by the grower but then I repotted it so I wasn't sure about watering today. It does feel dry both the roots and the bark (although of course the bark since it is new).

I will water tomorrow morning unless that doesn't sound like a good idea. I don't know what if anything to do about the yellowing at one of the leaves where it was cut. Is that normal?

---------- Post added at 01:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:45 PM ----------

Originally Posted by Roberta

Once you get a feel for how damp or dry your plant is, you won't have to do the test, you'll just know. When you water, do it so that water runs through the pot (and then let it drain). This flushes out any accumulated crud, and also pulls fresh air into the root zone - because what you really want is "humid air" around the roots. Also, as the mix dries out, the water is replace by air... which is what you want. This time of year - getting warm so the A/C is running - it will probably dry out fairly fast, so 2-3 times a week for watering is not too much - again if it is flushed well. Don't sweat the exact humidity... if the plant goes through that wet-dry cycle, there will be humidity around the roots, and that's mostly what matters. The "bag" trick can raise the humidity around the leaves to slow down transpiration while it's working on new roots, but you can accomplish pretty much the same thing with the watering scheme I suggested.

Can you clarify what is the watering trick you suggested? Just a medium with a lot of space so that water and air can flow through?

Does putting a bag over the leaves increase chances of crown rot by trapping moisture near the crown? I hear a plant basically cannot recover from crown rot so I am trying to avoid that.

[DrDawn]

The yellowing of the cut leaf part is pretty normal. I wouldn't worry about that. One thing that I did realize as you explained repotting it is that you should soak your new media in water when you repot! Otherwise it can be too dry and not take up any water when you water it. So, yes, if it feels dry today, that might be because you didn't soak the bark. You can remedy that by soaking the whole pot for a while today. (Maybe 30 min? Should be enough for it to get nice and damp and hold that dampness for a little while after you drain the water). Then you can test daily for moisture and do the normal watering from here on out.

[Roberta]

Originally Posted by elaerna

I will water tomorrow morning unless that doesn't sound like a good idea. I don't know what if anything to do about the yellowing at one of the leaves where it was cut. Is that normal?

---------- Post added at 01:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:45 PM ----------



Can you clarify what is the watering trick you suggested? Just a medium with a lot of space so that water and air can flow through?

Does putting a bag over the leaves increase chances of crown rot by trapping moisture near the crown? I hear a plant basically cannot recover from crown rot so I am trying to avoid that.

yes, just a medium that allows lots of air. I use medium bark for most Phals, maybe smaller bark for a small plant. I think that having just potted, you can definitely water today or tomorrow, since the medium is no doubt very dry. Just visualize the basic concept - a wet-(almost)dry cycle.

You're right, the bag can trap moisture - if the house isn't "skin-crawling" dry, I'd skip it. A healthy plant (good root system, good leaves) can sometimes survive crown rot by sending out new basal growths. But a plant that is in poor shape to start with, that's pretty much true. Something that you definitely want to avoid (no prophylactic treatment, just good conditions).

Just a thought that might help jump-start root growth. Ray, one our members, sells a kelp product called Kelpmax. I, and several other people, have had good results with it. (Ray can jump in with details on using it in your situation)

[Roberta]

elaerna, there is so much information that it's easy to overthink this.

The outdoor humidity is not particularly important, since as it gets hot you will probably be running the A/C, which will drop the humidity. But I doubt that it will get low enough to be a problem. The important thing is to get a healthy environment (medium with plenty of air spaces) and then let the plant do its thing.

The link from estación seca, referencing a sticky in the Beginner's Forum , is a great resource. One way of getting a feel for watering frequency is also the sticky in the Beginner's Forum,"Using skewers to determine when to water"

Once you get a feel for how damp or dry your plant is, you won't have to do the test, you'll just know. When you water, do it so that water runs through the pot (and then let it drain). This flushes out any accumulated crud, and also pulls fresh air into the root zone - because what you really want is "humid air" around the roots. Also, as the mix dries out, the water is replace by air... which is what you want. This time of year - getting warm so the A/C is running - it will probably dry out fairly fast, so 2-3 times a week for watering is not too much - again if it is flushed well. Don't sweat the exact humidity... if the plant goes through that wet-dry cycle, there will be humidity around the roots, and that's mostly what matters. The "bag" trick can raise the humidity around the leaves to slow down transpiration while it's working on new roots, but you can accomplish pretty much the same thing with the watering scheme I suggested. Also, if the plant is kept on the shady side it won't lose as much water through its leaves - you can gradually increase light once you have roots and a healthier plant, to get flowers but you have to get it healthy first.

Then, just patience....

[estación seca]

I'm sorry to hear of your friend's passing.

[Dollythehun]

It measures the humidity in the room. Please read the link DrDawn sent you, it contains a wealth of information you will need

[SouthPark]

elaerna - for Houston, one possible method you can try - which is what I do for pretty much all my orchids in my tropical region ..... is conveyed in the attached image that I drew for you.

The image does show water being added in some band of your own choosing out toward the rim of the pot. The chosen band is up to the grower .... eg. could choose a band that is say one-quarter of the pot diameter. Or even one-third the pot diameter. It doesn't mean that we necessarily must add water down the sides of the pot only. Some water can certainly be added toward the middle for sure ------ but not as much.

The aim is to just not get the bulk of the roots and media overly wet or too moist for relatively long periods of time - to avoid roots not getting enough oxygen.

The other thing is ----- when roots do eventually reach those particular regions that are very wet ----- because roots do certainly grow and get longer and longer ----- those roots are expected to get 'used to' or adapt to those more watery conditions (such as at sides of pot, or down toward the middle and bottom of the pot).

If you choose a relatively shallow pot with airy media, then you could probably just water your orchid anywhere you want.

In any case --- you just have to keep the conditions in among the roots under control ----- don't allow the roots of classic-potted orchids to have their roots overly wet for relatively long periods of time - to cut down on issues like running out of oxygen (even though eventually, some roots will adapt to more watery conditions, as mentioned).

The method shown is optional. There are many methods of potting and watering.

[elaerna]

Originally Posted by Dollythehun

It measures the humidity in the room. Please read the link DrDawn sent you, it contains a wealth of information you will need

The culture sheet? I did read that. In particular about watering though it feels generalized.

---------- Post added at 03:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:44 PM ----------

Originally Posted by SouthPark

elaerna - for Houston, one possible method you can try - which is what I do for pretty much all my orchids in my tropical region ..... is conveyed in the attached image that I drew for you.

The image does show water being added in some band of your own choosing out toward the rim of the pot. The chosen band is up to the grower .... eg. could choose a band that is say one-quarter of the pot diameter. Or even one-third the pot diameter. It doesn't mean that we necessarily must add water down the sides of the pot only. Some water can certainly be added toward the middle for sure ------ but not as much.

The aim is to just not get the bulk of the roots and media overly wet or too moist for relatively long periods of time - to avoid roots not getting enough oxygen.

The other thing is ----- when roots do eventually reach those particular regions that are very wet ----- because roots do certainly grow and get longer and longer ----- those roots are expected to get 'used to' or adapt to those more watery conditions (such as at sides of pot, or down toward the middle and bottom of the pot).

If you choose a relatively shallow pot with airy media, then you could probably just water your orchid anywhere you want.

In any case --- you just have to keep the conditions in among the roots under control ----- don't allow the roots of classic-potted orchids to have their roots overly wet for relatively long periods of time - to cut down on issues like running out of oxygen (even though eventually, some roots will adapt to more watery conditions, as mentioned).

The method shown is optional. There are many methods of potting and watering.

Oh my goodness what a detailed picture; thank you very much! When you say band do you mean a literal barrier between the two different kinds of media? And where would I get a tray like this that is divided? Or would I make it and if so what would I make it out of?

[SouthPark]

Originally Posted by elaerna

When you say band do you mean a literal barrier between the two different kinds of media? And where would I get a tray like this that is divided? Or would I make it and if so what would I make it out of?

Most welcome elaerna. Not literally a barrier. The meaning is to just add most of the water down toward the sides of the pot, rather than dump water down toward the middle of the pot, to avoid water bundling too much directly under the orchid (where the bulk of the roots will be - but there are always exceptions obviously ----- so this is just in general).

Shallow pots is probably no problem. But I mainly use deep pots here.

The egg-crate grates can often be purchased from some hardware stores. The drainage grates are just optional ----- but just happen to be very convenient and workable. If another item can be used to do the same job, then that's fine.

Even those 'separators' or spacers in the drawing are optional. If the water can just spread around the drainage grate without needing spacers, then no need for spacers. The grate just prevents the bottom of the plastic pot (where the holes are) from sitting in collected water.

Using one average sized media is ok too! Not necessary to use more than one average size. The big pieces just helps with drainage down the bottom, that's all. But not compulsory!

[Dollythehun]

You're looking for "The Phal Abuse Stops Here." It should be a permanent sticky note.