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05-17-2020, 10:31 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Zone: 7a
Location: Lower Hudson Valley
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Treating the orchids in my sickbay: Zygos, a Phal, and an Angraecum
Hello All,
I am keeping a few orchids in isolation due to issues that have got me stumped. Right now they are in my “Orchid Sickbay”.
Ideally, I would like to be able to reintroduce them into the greenhouse but I want to know if it is safe to have them around other plants and I also need to know the correct treatment for each one.
There are five plants in question: Four Zygopetalums (three with leaf spotting, one with a bulb rot), one Phal, and one Angraecum. I will start with the Angraecum didieri.
1. I broke the spur on the flower of this Angraecum didieri while repositioning the flower as it was blooming into the medium. Is that a serious problem? I did not think so.
2. This Phal pictured below has some very unsightly spots. Both lighter yellow spots and darker ones. It was like this when I bought it at a show several years ago but has only gotten worse as there weren’t so many spots on the newest leaf.
How should I treat this one? Is it likely contagious? Should I keep it in isolation? The vendor when I bought it insisted it was cold damage but I am not so sure now. Could it be something serious? What should I do with this one?
3. This leafless Zygo has rot on a backbulb but also the start of new growth on a different bulb. I am worried the rot will spread to the healthy bulb and new growth and kill the plant.
Sometimes, I have noticed that rotting back bulbs will rot and dry up and not spread to the good bulbs, which is even better since it makes a more sealed off area. Should I cut off the rotting bulb or leave it? How should I cut it? Should I repot it into bark? How should I go about saving this one? It is very valuable to me.
I had cut off another rotting bulb several weeks ago but it just advanced anyway to the one here. I don’t want to lose this one. As everyone probably knows, I have many fungicides at my disposal.
4. These three Zygopetalums have significant leaf spotting. If it were another kind of orchid I would be more concerned about viruses but since they are Zygos, I am not as worried. The smaller ones have new growths that appear to be clean but how do I stop this from spreading? Should I be worried about the health of these plants at all?
I know Zygopetalums are prone to leaf spotting and I certainly don’t grow them for their foliage. I just want to make sure the plants are being hurt by it and it isn’t a dangerous contagion.
I am investigating some probiotics to deal with it. I think it is caused by water droplets sitting on the leaves but I am not sure. They were mostly sitting near the ground so water probably did drip onto them.
I can also post additional photos (in different angles/closer shots) if that would be helpful.
Thank you all.
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05-18-2020, 07:33 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2016
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Location: Northern Indiana
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FWIW. I had two phals like that. Ray told me it was cold water damage but, on one it did spread. and and I pitched it. The other I cut a leaf and so far so good. I also had a white Equestris that was treated w probiotics and that helped but didn't cure black pitting.
The zygo leaves look much worse than I would expect as the older leaves get bad and fall whilst the younger ones are clean. I spray mine with amber Listerine regularly. If it doesn't clear up, I'd dump it too.
The pbulb, no opinion.
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05-18-2020, 12:06 PM
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With the Phalaenopsis, I’d be curious about virus. I’m not sure about the Zygos. Mine have ugly foliage, but nothing that extensive. Maybe see if a lower humidity, higher air flow environment helps? For the back bulb, I’d be inclined to remove it. These types of rots have usually ended up spreading on me.
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05-18-2020, 12:20 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oak Island NC
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Looks to me like you're dealing with acidovorax, a bacterial infection closely related (synonymous, to some) to pseudomonas infections.
It is very easily spread by water splashing, but may also easily be prevented by use of a topical disinfectant like Physan.
It may be treated with the use of copper compounds, like Phyton 27 or Southern Ag Liquid Copper.
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05-18-2020, 03:15 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray
Looks to me like you're dealing with acidovorax, a bacterial infection closely related (synonymous, to some) to pseudomonas infections.
It is very easily spread by water splashing, but may also easily be prevented by use of a topical disinfectant like Physan.
It may be treated with the use of copper compounds, like Phyton 27 or Southern Ag Liquid Copper.
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It looked like that kind of bacterial brown spot to me also.
My only other concern about the cause was cymbidium mosaic virus as that looks similar.
I do often spray my plants with physan, but it seems I got it anyway.
I would hate to have to get rid of any plants just because of that. The phal I was a bit worried about viruses but I think it is the same bacterial spotting too. Thankfully, zygopetalums are deciduous so I just have to make sure it doesn’t spread to the new growth. I am glad it hasn’t spread around much in the greenhouse either.
I am a bit concerned about using copper around the Dendrobiums. Is there a good way to make sure the Dendrobiums don’t get exposed to too much copper when I use it? Once the zygo orchids have been sprayed with copper, can they still coexist in the GH with the dendrobiums?
Also, I don’t have Phyton but I do have Southern Ag liquid copper. How much per gallon is a good choice?
Maybe I will also spray with cleary’s since the dry, sunken, papery black areas also remind me of fungal spots.
Last edited by BrassavolaStars; 05-18-2020 at 03:35 PM..
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05-18-2020, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray
It may be treated with the use of copper compounds, like Phyton 27 or Southern Ag Liquid Copper.
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That's probably a great call. Copper sprays can certaintly stop that sort of thing in their tracks.
I do hear that some thin-leaf plants can have issues with copper (or even particular plants like Dendrobium) ------ but hard to say whether that's true or not ...... or if true ---- applies to all thin-leaf plants.
But I also recall at least 1 person online saying that there shouldn't actually be a reason that thin leaf plants and Dendrobium should be negatively impacted. So it may just be a dosage thing.
I'm going to test on a Dendrobium ------ and see what happens. I'll choose a moschatum to try it on.
Last edited by SouthPark; 05-18-2020 at 04:35 PM..
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05-18-2020, 04:33 PM
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I know I’ve read in many places that said no copper for dendrobiums but that’s all I’ve ever seen.
Last edited by BrassavolaStars; 05-18-2020 at 04:58 PM..
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05-18-2020, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrassavolaStars
I know many places I’ve read no copper for dendrobiums but that’s all I’ve ever seen.
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Brassa ...... thanks for letting me know you saw those details too. I'll try some copper spray on one of my super healthy moschatums ----- and see what happens. I'll use an appropriate dose. Even if it turns out ok for this particular one ----- it won't guarantee that it'll be ok for other sorts of Den. I only have 3 types of dendrobium in my collections ----- moschatum, discolor and devonianum.
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05-18-2020, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrassavolaStars
I am a bit concerned about using copper around the Dendrobiums. Is there a good way to make sure the Dendrobiums don’t get exposed to too much copper when I use it? Once the zygo orchids have been sprayed with copper, can they still coexist in the GH with the dendrobiums?
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Simply don't spray them! There is no transfer, plant to plant.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrassavolaStars
Also, I don’t have Phyton but I do have Southern Ag liquid copper. How much per gallon is a good choice?
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The label specifies 2 teaspoons/gallon, repat at 7-14-day intervals.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrassavolaStars
Maybe I will also spray with cleary’s since the dry, sunken, papery black areas also remind me of fungal spots.
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Copper is also a fungicide.
Don't forget that these treatments are not innocuous to the plant. Keep treatments targeted and minimized.
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05-18-2020, 05:14 PM
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We always used Captan to control fungus issues with the fruit trees/grapes and roses. It is pretty powerful stuff and you probably want to wear a mask, gloves, and shower very well immediately after using. There are formulas with and without copper.
Robot Check
Here is a good place to look, too:
https://www.staugorchidsociety.org/P...ySueBottom.pdf
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