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01-31-2020, 04:48 PM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Zone: 6a
Location: Kansas
Posts: 5,224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray
Inocucor Garden Solution is a probiotic containing live, beneficial fungi and bacteria. They predate pathogens and secrete antibiotics into the medium to prevent outbreaks of others. They also secrete plant growth stimulants to a limited degree.
The fungi will send their hyphae throughout the medium, where they act to "extend the reach" of the plant's root system, and can sequester salts to prevent burning.
The use of any bactericide, fungicide or disinfectant will kill the beneficial microbes.
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Hey Bill! Ain’t that what I just said... in understandable
English! Hyphae?!? What the heck!
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01-31-2020, 04:49 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Zone: 10b
Location: South Florida, East Coast
Posts: 5,838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray
Inocucor Garden Solution is a probiotic containing live, beneficial fungi and bacteria. They predate pathogens and secrete antibiotics into the medium to prevent outbreaks of others. They also secrete plant growth stimulants to a limited degree.
The fungi will send their hyphae throughout the medium, where they act to "extend the reach" of the plant's root system, and can sequester salts to prevent burning.
The use of any bactericide, fungicide or disinfectant will kill the beneficial microbes.
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like the human antibiotics vs probiotics situation....gotcha
i will just keep using and thanking my stars ive had no fungal issues
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All the ways I grow are dictated by the choices I have made and the environment in which I live. Please listen and act accordingly
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Rooted in South Florida....
Zone 10b, Baby! Hot and wet
#MoreFlowers Insta
#MoreFlowers Flickr
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01-31-2020, 05:22 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Victor Harbor Sth Australia
Posts: 904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWitchin
I went to 1T of blackstrap molasses every month or two.
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Interesting, I use molasses on my clivia, I have toyed with using it on the orchids too but hadn't heard anyone mention it before.
Might be time to get the 'black gold' out.
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01-31-2020, 05:33 PM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Zone: 6a
Location: Kansas
Posts: 5,224
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It’s an old lady cure-all.
---------- Post added at 03:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:32 PM ----------
Make sure it’s blackstrap, not the unsulfured kind.
Last edited by WaterWitchin; 02-01-2020 at 09:46 AM..
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01-31-2020, 10:56 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Zone: 9b
Location: Florida’s Forgotten Coast
Posts: 372
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Inocucor is the way to go if your plants are in good shape and free of disease and pests. It will keep your plants strong and healthy, warding off many problems. Using fungicides as a preventative treatment should only be used if you have chronic disease problems that keep reoccurring. And a reactive approach, is only some what effective, usually by the time you see signs of infection, it is to late, the damage is already done. By using good fundamentals, correct lighting, sufficient water, good air movement, sanitation, and using Inococur as labeled, you shouldn’t need to use chemicals/fungicides to keep your plants healthy and free of disease and pests.
Use of ‘the old ladies cure-all’ black strap molasses will add sugars, amino acids, and trace minerals to the plant, increasing plant vigor and possibly helping in blooming.
Last edited by Selmo; 01-31-2020 at 11:07 PM..
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02-01-2020, 08:50 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oak Island NC
Posts: 15,204
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Another good way to keeps rots of al kinds at bay is cleanliness.
Bacteria and fungi are ubiquitous. A nice, clean, weed-free growing environment provides fewer places for them to colonize and becoming the “Typhoid Mary” pocket.
In-home growers have it easier in this regard. In my greenhouse, I periodically sprayed the floor and glazing with either Physan or later, Biosafe Disease Control.
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02-01-2020, 12:50 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Zone: 8a
Location: Athens, Georgia, USA
Posts: 3,208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyCoconuts
i found this table on the St Augustine OS page ( great resources there BTW)
and it does not name the products only the type and then it lists all conceivable products lol
i cant copy and paste but here is the link
https://staugorchidsociety.org/PDF/O...ySueBottom.pdf
i liked the idea of the preventative approach but i don't want to harm any plants
i am also using the Inocucor about monthly, probably a bit more than once a month
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Separate from the comments about Inocucor, if you want to use a fungicide as a preventative, you get more benefit from a xylem mobile product, rather than a contact product. It's not that a contact product is entirely ineffective, but it washes off rather than entering the plant.
BTW, on the St. Augustine Orchid Society website, there is another version of the disease control table that is downloadable from their pest and disease control page, without the discussion. Locate the index to orchid culture, then orchid pests and diseases, then orchid diseases, you will find the download link "Fungicides and Bactericides for Orchid Diseases". It gives information on application rates.
The great benefit of these tables is they indicate specific treatments for specific problems. Aliette WDG treats different problems compared to Cleary's 3336F for example. St. Aug also provides basic disease recognition information.
Last edited by Orchid Whisperer; 02-01-2020 at 01:23 PM..
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02-01-2020, 01:58 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Zone: 5b
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,953
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWitchin
What do you use for a calcium supplement Leafmite? Just curious. Back when I grew in bark, I used crushed eggshell. Now since I do all SH, I don't. I went to 1T of blackstrap molasses every month or two.
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I don't use bark, either. I prefer not to disturb the roots of my plants every year.
So, Calcium....
It is mainly my Cattleyas and Angraecums in my collection that I have found need the higher amounts of Calcium. I mixed in limestone with the red lava rock this past summer as I bought a few new Angraecums and they are more prone to fungus issues than most. I use eggshells, crushed oyster shell, and, if the plants are outside and we have much rain, I add either Cali-Magic or powdered milk to the watering can (never use powdered milk indoors). I use rain or distilled water as all the water goes through a water-softener.
Eggshells are a very slow but steady release form of Calcium but the eggshells need to decompose for a time before the Calcium is released. I usually put them in the pots when I pot up an orchid and then add them every year to the pots.
Why my devotion to Calcium? Long ago, I always used water from the goldfish pond to water my plants. When I closed out my goldfish pond after thirteen years (lotus and lilies had Calcium rich fertilizer tablets), I began to use rain water with Orchid Fertilizer, not realizing that the fertilizer did not contain everything an orchid needed (I thought as a specialty fertilizer, it would) and I lost many irreplaceable orchids in a most devastating way (there was nothing on the internet at the time that explained what was happening...I figured it out from my growing of tomatoes). Still looking for some of those Cattleyas I once had and loved....
Now that I am careful with the Calcium, my plants do not have any issues, no matter how much rain we get, cool or hot.
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02-01-2020, 03:06 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Zone: 8a
Location: Athens, Georgia, USA
Posts: 3,208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWitchin
What do you use for a calcium supplement Leafmite? Just curious. Back when I grew in bark, I used crushed eggshell. Now since I do all SH, I don't. I went to 1T of blackstrap molasses every month or two.
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Blackstrap molasses; interesting!
Is that 1 tablespoon per gallon? Do you know if that is a good supplement if you are growing in bark or sphagnum?
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02-01-2020, 04:30 PM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Zone: 6a
Location: Kansas
Posts: 5,224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafmite
I don't use bark, either. I prefer not to disturb the roots of my plants every year.
So, Calcium....
It is mainly my Cattleyas and Angraecums in my collection that I have found need the higher amounts of Calcium. I mixed in limestone with the red lava rock this past summer as I bought a few new Angraecums and they are more prone to fungus issues than most. I use eggshells, crushed oyster shell, and, if the plants are outside and we have much rain, I add either Cali-Magic or powdered milk to the watering can (never use powdered milk indoors). I use rain or distilled water as all the water goes through a water-softener.
Eggshells are a very slow but steady release form of Calcium but the eggshells need to decompose for a time before the Calcium is released. I usually put them in the pots when I pot up an orchid and then add them every year to the pots.
Why my devotion to Calcium? Long ago, I always used water from the goldfish pond to water my plants. When I closed out my goldfish pond after thirteen years (lotus and lilies had Calcium rich fertilizer tablets), I began to use rain water with Orchid Fertilizer, not realizing that the fertilizer did not contain everything an orchid needed (I thought as a specialty fertilizer, it would) and I lost many irreplaceable orchids in a most devastating way (there was nothing on the internet at the time that explained what was happening...I figured it out from my growing of tomatoes). Still looking for some of those Cattleyas I once had and loved....
Now that I am careful with the Calcium, my plants do not have any issues, no matter how much rain we get, cool or hot.
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Yes, I still supplement most everything with calcium. All those eggshells that used to go in orchids now go into the tomato beds. I've always used oyster shell as well. And of course, blackstrap molasses.
I used to own a water garden store before retirement. I still use my water garden/pond/koi pond water only during the six months or orchids are outside. Super easy to drop in that waste pump with a long hose and have at it. And I rarely fertilize anything during those months. Also used to have a 100 and 75 gallon aquarium, and always used that water in winter for plants, but supplemented with RO. Now it's all RO, because I'm taking a break from aquariums.
Frankly, I only started using fertilizer in winter months two or three years ago. Mostly due to encouragement from a friend to at least give it a try during winter months. Has it changed anything? Frankly, I'm not sure. Everything seemed to be doing well before, and still doing well now, for the most part. Since I've gotten older (just turned 65) I find the best care of my orchids, and houseplants, and outside plants and veggies, is to keep it simple. When I don't, I tend to just not water or pay attention as often as I should. Gotta keep me happy and motivated, and it tends to make all living things happier. Including my husband.
Was curious to see what you used. Use blackstrap molasses on those tomatoes as well. The extra potassium and magnesium will benefit them!
---------- Post added at 02:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:20 PM ----------
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orchid Whisperer
Blackstrap molasses; interesting!
Is that 1 tablespoon per gallon? Do you know if that is a good supplement if you are growing in bark or sphagnum?
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Yes, 1 T per gallon is what I use, just for simplicity. Most folks say 1 teaspoon per quart. Who the heck only uses a quart of water when watering ANYTHING?!? It helps to use really warm water and let it cool a bit if you're doing large quantities (I use a five gallon bucket for inside stuff) instead of stirring forever.
It's got calcium, magnesium, iron, potassium, sulfur and micronutrients.The sugars in it are what beneficial bacteria and microorganisms eat and makes them proliferate. Plus my grandma told me that, used it, and she had the greenest thumb I've ever seen.
---------- Post added at 02:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:28 PM ----------
PS OW, ya better check out my "rock" thread. I posted a story just for you!
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