My turn to brag: three Blue ribbons

[Junebug]

Originally Posted by help

Thanks thanks thanks! Can't wait till tomorrow to go and see it with all the awards on it.

I didn't lose the plant ALL because of the water I used for the pic. I also gave it sunburn and rootrot :P

Good night orchid board! <3

Aw, I think we've all made our share of mistakes in the beginning, but without them we'd never learn.

[Call_Me_Bob]

yep im about to leave, i cant wait !!

[Becca]

That picture caught my too, it is beautiful, sorry to hear it didn't make it. At least you still have the picture and a great learning lesson! I also like the mounted phal you have hanging as well, very cool looking! Is that one yours too?

And yes, please do post the article, we would love to read it!

[Call_Me_Bob]

yep, the mount hanging is mine. it is actually in spike

i have a whole shoot full of photos and i learned a great lesson!

these were the individual article that were standing up-

Fir bark is probably the most popular way of growing Phalaenopsis. They can be grown either in straight bark or a mixture of bark and other ingredients. The main ingredients added are perlite, coarse charcoal, and sphagnum moss. Perlite is used for its aeration qualities. Coarse charcoal is inert and gives good drainage. Some think it they may also adsorb toxins and acids from the root-zone. Finally, sphagnum moss is used to increase the water retention. Because Phalaenopsis grow on trees in nature, bark is ideal, since it creates a good surface for the roots to grasp. Although there are MANY different mixes, I use a 50/50 mix of coarse fir bark and medium grade charcoal.



Probably the second most popular medium for Phalaenopsis is sphagnum moss. Sphagnum moss is either added to other mixes or used alone. Either way it provides excellent water retention. Whether or not you can successfully use Sphagnum moss alone as a medium depends on your growing conditions. You must be careful with sphagnum moss, because of its water retention qualities it is easy to over-water. Many big companies use straight sphagnum moss, because it holds water during shipping and is typically clean, so it can easily be imported and exported. It must be remembered that Sphagnum moss hold a lot more water than bark. One must be careful not to over water in this type of potting.









Semi-hydroponics is a relatively new technique. It is a method of using the wicking properties of L.E.C.A. to provide water to the roots of the plant. L.E.C.A. stands for Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate; it is inert so it won’t decompose. It has capillary action that allows it to wick water up from the reservoir into the root-zone. The pot should have a few small quarter-inch holes about one inch up, creating a reservoir at the bottom of the pot. The plants should then be potted as you would with any other media, except that, instead of pressing down the media, pot should be shaken to let the media flow in around the root system. When watering using this technique, water should be run through the medium and down into the reservoir.




Mounting is the most natural way to grow Phalaenopsis and other epiphytes because it mimics the way that these orchids naturally grow on trees. However, mounting is not well suited for the average home grower. Because its roots are attached with only a thin layer of sphagnum moss for moisture, mounted Phalaenopsis will be subject to very quickly. It will need watered every day or so, depending on humidity and the amount of sphagnum moss between the roots and the mount. There are many different materials you can mount on. Some examples are cedar, driftwood, grapevine, treefern, and epiweb.









Potting with coconut husk chips (chc) is similar to using bark, but it holds more moister and creates an airier environment. Like bark potted orchids, they can be grown either in straight chc or a mixture of chc and other ingredients. The main ingredients added are perlite, coarse charcoal, and sphagnum moss. Perlite is used for its aeration qualities. Coarse charcoal is inert and gives good drainage. Some think that it may also absorb toxins and acids from the root-zone. Phalaenopsis grow on trees in nature, and chc is very bark-like; therefore chc’s creates a good surface for the roots to grasp. As with all media, the quality is very important.

there might have been a few minor changes, but its on another computer , the finished one.


here is the article that are lying on the table

A Quick Guide to Phalaenopsis



Phalaenopsis are the most common orchid. They can be found in upscale flower and gardening shops, as well as in most grocery stores. Contrary to popular belief, with the proper care, Phalaenopsis can be easy to grow and to make bloom. One of the reasons for this is because the majority of Phalaenopsis are complex hybrids, produced by extensive breeding. Because of the extensive breeding, the cultural needs are more generalized and suited home culture.
A complex hybrid Phalaenopsis is any Phalaenopsis with at least one parent that is not a species. Complex hybrids respond best to day temperatures of 70* F or above and night temperatures of 60-65* F. When temperatures rise above 85* F, the humidity and air movement should be increased. To help initiate spikes, Phalaenopsis should be exposed to night temperatures of 55-60* F for a few weeks. Humidity should be kept around 55%-70%. Short periods of lower humidity are not fatal, but long periods of reduced humidity should be avoided.
Phalaenopsis ,as well as many other orchids, are epiphytes. Epiphytes are plants that live attached to trees. Phalaenopsis have thick succulent roots that allow them to cling onto the trees. The roots also have the ability to do photosynthesis. Phalaenopsis grow very differently in nature than how they are mostly commonly seen in pots, crown up. In nature, they grow clinging to trees with their crown down. Since no water can get into the crown this way, there is little chance of crown rot.
Since Phalaenopsis are epiphytes, their exposed roots are subject to dry out between the those frequent rains of the tropics. There are many different mixes used for Phalaenopsis. Choosing the proper mix depends greatly on your growing environment. I grow most of my Phalaenopsis in a mixture of medium grade bark and medium grade charcoal. The bark holds water but does not stay soggy. The charcoal provides good drainage to the mix and has the ability to adsorb some toxins and acids.
Phalaenopsis should be watered just before the mix goes completely dry. If not allowed to dry out almost completely between watering, it will develop root rot. Phalaenopsis benefit from weak fertilizer at every watering. Its best to use only half of what the instructions say. Its always better to over-dilute than under-dilute, as too much fertilizer will burn the roots. Its also a good idea to run plain water through the pot before fertilizing.
Phalaenopsis are well suited for windowsill growing. An east window is desirable, but a north window will also work. Early morning sun is beneficial for good growth, but midday sun and hot afternoon sun can burn and scorch the leaves. To protect them, shear curtains can be used to filter the noonday light and prevent heat from building up on the leaves and damaging them. By touching the leaves at the peak light and heat hours of the day, you can tell if the leaves are in danger of burning. If the leaves are cool to the touch, they are fine. If however, they are warm to the touch, they are in danger of burning.

[Junebug]

Originally Posted by help

yep, the mount hanging is mine. it is actually in spike

i have a whole shoot full of photos and i learned a great lesson!

these were the individual article that were standing up-

Fir bark is probably the most popular way of growing Phalaenopsis. They can be grown either in straight bark or a mixture of bark and other ingredients. The main ingredients added are perlite, coarse charcoal, and sphagnum moss. Perlite is used for its aeration qualities. Coarse charcoal is inert and gives good drainage. Some think it they may also adsorb toxins and acids from the root-zone. Finally, sphagnum moss is used to increase the water retention. Because Phalaenopsis grow on trees in nature, bark is ideal, since it creates a good surface for the roots to grasp. Although there are MANY different mixes, I use a 50/50 mix of coarse fir bark and medium grade charcoal.



Probably the second most popular medium for Phalaenopsis is sphagnum moss. Sphagnum moss is either added to other mixes or used alone. Either way it provides excellent water retention. Whether or not you can successfully use Sphagnum moss alone as a medium depends on your growing conditions. You must be careful with sphagnum moss, because of its water retention qualities it is easy to over-water. Many big companies use straight sphagnum moss, because it holds water during shipping and is typically clean, so it can easily be imported and exported. It must be remembered that Sphagnum moss hold a lot more water than bark. One must be careful not to over water in this type of potting.









Semi-hydroponics is a relatively new technique. It is a method of using the wicking properties of L.E.C.A. to provide water to the roots of the plant. L.E.C.A. stands for Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate; it is inert so it won’t decompose. It has capillary action that allows it to wick water up from the reservoir into the root-zone. The pot should have a few small quarter-inch holes about one inch up, creating a reservoir at the bottom of the pot. The plants should then be potted as you would with any other media, except that, instead of pressing down the media, pot should be shaken to let the media flow in around the root system. When watering using this technique, water should be run through the medium and down into the reservoir.




Mounting is the most natural way to grow Phalaenopsis and other epiphytes because it mimics the way that these orchids naturally grow on trees. However, mounting is not well suited for the average home grower. Because its roots are attached with only a thin layer of sphagnum moss for moisture, mounted Phalaenopsis will be subject to very quickly. It will need watered every day or so, depending on humidity and the amount of sphagnum moss between the roots and the mount. There are many different materials you can mount on. Some examples are cedar, driftwood, grapevine, treefern, and epiweb.









Potting with coconut husk chips (chc) is similar to using bark, but it holds more moister and creates an airier environment. Like bark potted orchids, they can be grown either in straight chc or a mixture of chc and other ingredients. The main ingredients added are perlite, coarse charcoal, and sphagnum moss. Perlite is used for its aeration qualities. Coarse charcoal is inert and gives good drainage. Some think that it may also absorb toxins and acids from the root-zone. Phalaenopsis grow on trees in nature, and chc is very bark-like; therefore chc’s creates a good surface for the roots to grasp. As with all media, the quality is very important.

there might have been a few minor changes, but its on another computer , the finished one.


here is the article that are lying on the table

A Quick Guide to Phalaenopsis



Phalaenopsis are the most common orchid. They can be found in upscale flower and gardening shops, as well as in most grocery stores. Contrary to popular belief, with the proper care, Phalaenopsis can be easy to grow and to make bloom. One of the reasons for this is because the majority of Phalaenopsis are complex hybrids, produced by extensive breeding. Because of the extensive breeding, the cultural needs are more generalized and suited home culture.
A complex hybrid Phalaenopsis is any Phalaenopsis with at least one parent that is not a species. Complex hybrids respond best to day temperatures of 70* F or above and night temperatures of 60-65* F. When temperatures rise above 85* F, the humidity and air movement should be increased. To help initiate spikes, Phalaenopsis should be exposed to night temperatures of 55-60* F for a few weeks. Humidity should be kept around 55%-70%. Short periods of lower humidity are not fatal, but long periods of reduced humidity should be avoided.
Phalaenopsis ,as well as many other orchids, are epiphytes. Epiphytes are plants that live attached to trees. Phalaenopsis have thick succulent roots that allow them to cling onto the trees. The roots also have the ability to do photosynthesis. Phalaenopsis grow very differently in nature than how they are mostly commonly seen in pots, crown up. In nature, they grow clinging to trees with their crown down. Since no water can get into the crown this way, there is little chance of crown rot.


















Since Phalaenopsis are epiphytes, their exposed roots are subject to dry out between the those frequent rains of the tropics. There are many different mixes used for Phalaenopsis. Choosing the proper mix depends greatly on your growing environment. I grow most of my Phalaenopsis in a mixture of medium grade bark and medium grade charcoal. The bark holds water but does not stay soggy. The charcoal provides good drainage to the mix and has the ability to adsorb some toxins and acids.
Phalaenopsis should be watered just before the mix goes completely dry. If not allowed to dry out almost completely between watering, it will develop root rot. Phalaenopsis benefit from weak fertilizer at every watering. Its best to use only half of what the instructions say. Its always better to over-dilute than under-dilute, as too much fertilizer will burn the roots. Its also a good idea to run plain water through the pot before fertilizing.
Phalaenopsis are well suited for windowsill growing. An east window is desirable, but a north window will also work. Early morning sun is beneficial for good growth, but midday sun and hot afternoon sun can burn and scorch the leaves. To protect them, shear curtains can be used to filter the noonday light and prevent heat from building up on the leaves and damaging them. By touching the leaves at the peak light and heat hours of the day, you can tell if the leaves are in danger of burning. If the leaves are cool to the touch, they are fine. If however, they are warm to the touch, they are in danger of burning.

:ch eer:

[CTB]

Very nice job, congrats!

[cb977]

Well done, my friend!

[shadytrake]

Woo Hoo! Way to go!

[Eyebabe]

I was there! I saw your exhibit and it was awesome

[Connie Star]

Originally Posted by help

yes, i did take that picture. that is a picture of my very first orchid <3 i unfortunately killed that one

here is the story, i wanted to take some cool water drop pics of it and i didnt have a spray bottle. so i dumped a cup of water all over the leaves, and well it made a cool picture but it also made some gnarly crown rot!

Great shot!