Tolumnia Genting Orange - Page 2 - Orchid Board

TreeBear · #11 11-11-2013, 10:02 AM

Hey there,

How long have you been growing your Tolumnia 'Genting Orange'? I just got one of these orchids at a recent show about a month ago. It seems mine had taken quite a shock coming from the growers conditions, to my own. The leaves first started to dry so then I increased watering. Then I noticed that the roots have died back! I don't know why that happened and I dont want to lost this one, any help or suggestions? Should I repot this, and if so, what medium should be used? I should note, mine also came in one of those tiny pots. I was wondering if I could use something else to pot it into instead. Its fall/approaching winter here in NY so it gets very dry inside in terms of humidity. I usually water it and then let it dry, but I suppose the inside of the pot could have held more moisture than I anticipated.

cbuchman · #12 11-11-2013, 10:22 AM

I grow my Tolumnias mounted. The key to success is to water/mist daily and ensure that they are dry before nightfall. So good air movement is a must. Often when in pots, there is no media at all or a few pieces of charcoal.

When I mounted mine, the roots did appear to die back and were very dry. However the following spring, new roots appeared that are green and healthy.

Hope that helps.

TreeBear · #13 11-11-2013, 05:35 PM

Thank you very much for the quick reply!

Ok, yes I was thinking this orchid would be great for mounting so I will give that a try. If the roots are damaged and rotted can/should they be trimmed back before the mounting? If so, how far should they be trimmed?

Thanks for the help!
Much appreciated

Bud · #14 11-11-2013, 06:28 PM

I've had my Tollies for a couple of years....this plant is adjusting to your environment; just take into consideration that the former grower had humidity and heat to perfection and the automated showering mists have nourished it....
soak it for 5 minutes instead of watering it....then let it dry overnight....invest in an electric humidifier that has an oscillating fan attached=if not then make a humidity tray with a saucer of water and some pebbles=just don't let the water touch the roots....I know winter indoors in NY can be dry....
you need not repot it = maybe make it get used to its surroundings first before you disturb the tiny sensitive roots....

TreeBear · #15 11-12-2013, 11:48 PM

Ok great, I will do that, and make it's surroundings accommodate it more. When I bought this orchid, it was actually in mind to be used inside of my vertical vivarium, (the home for my dart frogs) where I have other plants, mosses, etc. all vertically landscaped with cork bark and other things. In there it would have access to plenty of moisture and high humidity because I have a mistking, automated misting system (which is one of the best misting systems out there) set up with a timer. The system is currently set to mist early in the morning for a few minutes.
I wanted to have this orchid mounted on one of the cork pieces in there, but not have it soaked by misting. that sound good?
Although, yes, an automated humidifier for my room would be great aswell because I generally would benefit from having one for me just because the air can be so intensly dry. I have one of those automated heaters just to keep my room warm because its getting very cold out here. Had our first real snow today :/ bummer, but that's NY for ya. Anyways, getting back to my question, so what is the length I should cut back the roots to? I've looked at them and they seem pretty bad at this point. I remember they were a little fuzzy with a bit of mold or mildew the other day but since I've restricted watering that has been quelled for the most part but it seems to have hurt my roots quite a bit. How far can they be cut back or how much should I remove if most of them are now pretty bad?

tucker85 · #16 11-13-2013, 09:31 AM

Very nice! I like the color.

Bud · #17 11-13-2013, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tucker85

Very nice! I like the color.

Thank You, Jeff!!!!

---------- Post added at 07:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:28 PM ----------

Quote:

Originally Posted by TreeBear

Ok great, I will do that, and make it's surroundings accommodate it more. When I bought this orchid, it was actually in mind to be used inside of my vertical vivarium, (the home for my dart frogs) where I have other plants, mosses, etc. all vertically landscaped with cork bark and other things. In there it would have access to plenty of moisture and high humidity because I have a mistking, automated misting system (which is one of the best misting systems out there) set up with a timer. The system is currently set to mist early in the morning for a few minutes.
I wanted to have this orchid mounted on one of the cork pieces in there, but not have it soaked by misting. that sound good?
Although, yes, an automated humidifier for my room would be great aswell because I generally would benefit from having one for me just because the air can be so intensly dry. I have one of those automated heaters just to keep my room warm because its getting very cold out here. Had our first real snow today :/ bummer, but that's NY for ya. Anyways, getting back to my question, so what is the length I should cut back the roots to? I've looked at them and they seem pretty bad at this point. I remember they were a little fuzzy with a bit of mold or mildew the other day but since I've restricted watering that has been quelled for the most part but it seems to have hurt my roots quite a bit. How far can they be cut back or how much should I remove if most of them are now pretty bad?

If you flush the roots in running water under the sink at full throttle; the dead decayed roots will come off by itself. The ones remaining attached to the plant will be the ones you keep. Spray the whole plant with physan20 before you mount it... that idea of automatic mist in the morning will be good if you make sure the roots are dry overnight=that fuzzy mold like stuff on the roots means it was not able to dry out....

syspila · #18 11-13-2013, 09:10 PM

Windowsill Equitants are great for Spring-Summer and Fall color. I have 2 working on buds.

Bud · #19 11-14-2013, 01:13 PM

Thank You for your input. These orchids started spiking last summer and it is giving me blooms up to now....they are so tiny it is dwarfed by my Catasetinae as a center on the dinner table.

TreeBear · #20 11-15-2013, 11:16 AM

Thanks you guys,

I appreciate the feedback greatly. My Tolumnia is doing much better now. Unfortunately I didn't get to treat it with Physan20 because I don't have any, nor do I know where to get it. Can this be bought at a local hydroponics supplier? or is this strictly an order online thing? Anyways, I did treat it with a solution of diluted Listerine and then a mixture of Hydrogen peroxide and the mold went right away after a few alternating applications and I haven't seen it since I've been letting it dry quite a bit. I removed it from the little pot and I mounted it on a small cork bark piece. It is doing a lot better I can tell already. It hasn't been long enough for it to put out new roots but I can see the nodes at which they will soon push out from and the sides also indicate future new growth, so that is good. Also, I have something great and unexpected to share with you! Prior to this slight wet rotting I had tried my technique at hand pollination. To my great surprise, yesterday, I noticed that the flower stem, the one I tried the technique on, had taken to fertilization and has started to produce a swollen stem, where a seed pod will eventually form! I'm so happy and surprised to see that this orchid will not only survive but also produce seed! Pretty Awesome little wonders. I would show a picture update on that but I haven't had the chance yet, soon though. Now I just have to get a technique down for eventually germinating the seeds/micropropagation. Anyone have ideas, experience, and or insights to share on that?