Another sick Miltassia...Help!

[Sandy4453]

I've been reading (through a search, here) about problems others have had with their Miltassias. Well, I've now been inducted....

I did a repot about a month ago (from and back into fresh bark/charcoal/perlite). I cut down the bulbs that were shriveled and leafless, cleaned up the roots (massive but lots of dead, useless ones), soaked it in a Physon bath with a little SuperThrive. This plant has continuously been losing leaves (yellowing) and is why I thought to do a repot (did one last year). I then unpotted it again when more seemingly healthy leaves started yellowing, gave it another bath, repotted again into new mix, smaller pot. I've kept it dry since then, letting it acclimate. I know these like their water but they also like to get thirsty so I have not a clue why the leaves continue to get yellow?

What am I doing wrong or not doing right? I need you guys and gals, big time!

[camille1585]

Do you have a picture? If it's leaves on old bulbs, that might be normal. Sorry I can't help you more, I don't grow many oncidium alliance plants since they die on me for no reason!

[Lagoon]

Sandy, A photo would really help
It's okay to give it a wet dry cycle (imo) this helps start new roots, after repotting.

I have found these guys don't care to be dry much at all. Sure, some slight drying but not dried out media.
Sphagnum moss will keep it moist. You have to also consider the heat where you are, it will likey require more watering.
I no longer keep these types of orchids in a bark media mixture - they just drink to much to keep up with the watering.
What kinda light is this one under, what are the tempts like?

[Sandy4453]

Camille, thanks for your response. Photo, down below!

Gloria, thanks for your guidance. Last question answered first...I keep this and all the orchids on a patio, semi-outdoors - 3 sides screened and a ceiling, facing north/east. It's the best I can give. The temps this summer (and still) have been uncomfortably too high for this one but the fans were going 24/7. It spiked and flowered this season and soon afterwards, is when it started failing. Would you advise I give it a long soak in the morning? I was watering, on average about once/week but I ended up cutting away more dead roots than good ones (looked like it was due to over watering, the roots weren't dried out). I could be wrong but I thought they needed to get thirsty before watering? Also, if I choose to keep it in bark, should I cut down on more bulbs that are spent?

It's in a 4" pot now (from 6"). It looks bigger than it is in the pic. I have the pot in another pot with bark layering the top.

Also, I'm getting new growth so I know it's worth figuring this out to stop the loss and get it back in good shape.

Here's what it looks like now and when in flower last summer. Miltassia Shelob

Thanks for your help.

[Lagoon]

Sandy, It's ok for the older bulbs to less then full, it's normal, soon they will lose their leaves and become back bulbs. Some back bulbs can and do remain plump for years. It depends on the orchid.

This one need alot of water. I think with all that heat it will get thristy much quicker. Yes I would soak it down twice per week, see if you can't get some of those bulbs to fill up. It could take a few waterings, even a few weeks.

Don't allow this one to dry out completely, keep this one semi moist. Once the bulbs begin to fill out, you can ease down on the waterings (if) the heat is not as high.

Use a BBQ skewer, this will help guide you along the way.
Bark dries out much quicker in high heats.
Don't go nuts with the waterings thinking - you will get there faster, you might end up with rot.
Go slowly and water abit more often, giving it a good soak for 10 to 20 mins.

New growth is an excellent sign - you'll be just fine, hang in eh?!

[Sandy4453]

OK Gloria. Thanks for the confidence here. It seems that every time I water this, the leaves begin to yellow. I expected some leaves to fall but it's not balanced with the amount of growth this year.

I'll give it a good soaking with some added SuperThrive tomorrow morning and then up the watering from thereon. Have plenty of skewers on hand! Whatever bulbs seem to be goner's, I'll cut away after I've given it some time to first see what does/doesn't revive. I don't think I want to do a repot so I'll do the alcohol (70%) and some cinnamon on what I end up cutting away. How does that sound?

Thanks again!

[Gin]

I have found they like to divide them selves . Start losing leaves in the middle of the plant which when divided end up the back bulbs . I have one that does that . Your plant looks good , as Gloria said hang in there . Gin

[Sun rm.N.E.]

Sandy

"There are a few new growths but no new roots. Can I expect a major setback for the plant? Can I expect that it should eventually adjust in this culture? Should I repot it back into bark and wait for new root growth?"


I can sympathize I have some too in suspended animation now and hope you plant will resume growth when the temperatures drop. Unless you keep it in an air conditioned place I think that your Miltassia Shelob more likely suffers from too much heat for too long and that is one reason why it slowed down its growth.

The shallow greenhouse unit I grow in is part of my house and if I don't have the airconditioner on, the heat gets to be in high 90's for some hours even when the outside temperature is in the 80's and all exhaust fans running. A lot of Oncid alliance hybrids do not do well during the Summer for me. Milton Carpenter "Everglades Orchids" specialized in breading Onc. Alliance plants that were heat tolerant and made a reputation on this, so this is a big deal for a lot of us without temperature-controlled green houses. He also had an article on the AOS website about how he did this. I bought some of these before he closed but I was able to keep only kept half of even those.

I did not buy this plant yet because of those recommendations I quoted from the people at Orchidworks. I found that if they list the temperatures range Intermediate (less than 85F max) the plant suffers during our Summers. They will tell you if they think a plant can take 90F max and that's when I try the plant. They claim to have a clone of Miltassia Shelob named 'Webmaster' that can take more heat but I have not come across it.

[Sandy4453]

After losing more leaves than there's been in new growth, I did, yet another unpotting on this plant, cut more back bulbs, cleaned out all the old medium (bark mix), bathed it in Physan27 and SuperThrive and potted in s/h.

I seem to recall (after the fact) that it's always advised when transferring to s/h, to wait till the plant shows new root activity which, I didn't wait for or see. It began losing some leaves (yes, more) on the back bulbs so I wasn't too nervous and since then, seems to now be stabilizing. I'm hoping the new growths continue and begin growing new roots. Hopefully then, I'll feel a little more optimistic about it's fate.

Sun rm.N.E, I agree with your suspicions regarding the temps for this plant and all Onc alliance hybrids...all long, strapped leaved ones, don't do well in Florida heat and I'm sure this is why mine is struggling now. For that reason (but not solely) is why I decided to transfer it into s/h, hoping it will keep the plant a bit cooler. Also, with the temps. beginning to drop just a bit, will be favorable in helping it 'breathe' a little better. I'll worry about the temps, come next Spring.

I'm always tempted with Zygos, Cyms and Miltonias but know, they wouldn't stand a chance in Florida, outdoors in summer. This will all change upon my next move tho!

[D&S Mabel]

I do grow cyms., zygos., and a number of onc. types (actually the same plant as you have as well) outside year round in Florida without any real issues from the heat. I think central Florida typically gets higher average day temps then areas closer to the coast. I suspect your issues may not be from the heat.

I keep my Mtssa. in a bark mix that is finer then the bagged stuff from the Big Box stores. I don't use any sphagnum - too many root rot issues - and blend in some perlite and treefern. I find that these like to be moist but not wet so fast draining works best for me. I water once every three days + some rain, which allows them to just about dry out between waterings. All get 2 -3 hours of morning sun.

I just started using S/H with phals and paphs and am curious to see how this works for you. Good luck!