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10-24-2020, 12:29 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oak Island NC
Posts: 15,191
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I am not a fan of neem oil, for several reasons: - The raw oil can spoil, making me question whether it is active or not.
- I don't like using oils on orchids. it can burn the leaves or blast buds when exposed to warm sunlight.
- If absorbed by the velamen, it can restrict water uptake for a while, until it degrades.
That's why I switched to Azamax, instead - same active ingredient, but stable and not oily.
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10-24-2020, 12:44 PM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Zone: 6a
Location: Kansas
Posts: 5,219
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I would agree, just because I didn't care for the oily-ness of it. I still have half a bottle, and likely won't be using it. We rarely use insecticides and prefer to use natural/organic products. Mostly because we have small grandchildren that like to pick and eat things in the garden, and horses that will reach out and chew on anything as they're walking through.
This whole scale thing on Tolumnia is finally a whole different matter, and I'm still planning on trying some Imacloprid on them. And grandkids and horses both know eating orchids is entirely off limits.
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10-24-2020, 01:14 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Zone: 10a
Location: Coastal southern California, USA
Posts: 13,839
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Also, the repeat treatments are really important. If you have other products too, rotate them so anything that is resistant to one gets nailed by another.
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10-24-2020, 01:24 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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Roberta, what Bayer 3-1 product are you using? The one I had that you suggested not to use because of fertilizer was a Bayer 3-1 product for roses.
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Caveat: Everything suggested is based on my environment and culture. Please adjust accordingly.
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10-24-2020, 02:10 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2008
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Location: Coastal southern California, USA
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I'm using Bayer's Advanced 3-in-1 Insect, Disease, Mite control. Imidacloprid 0.47%, Tau-Fluvalinate 0.61% and Tebuconazole 0.65%. Had to get out my magnifying glass to read it... It's a concentrate.
This one is no longer available, but I have a stash that I bought when it was.
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10-24-2020, 02:32 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oak Island NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roberta
I'm using Bayer's Advanced 3-in-1 Insect, Disease, Mite control. Imidacloprid 0.47%, Tau-Fluvalinate 0.61% and Tebuconazole 0.65%. Had to get out my magnifying glass to read it... It's a concentrate.
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The new version, sold as "Bio-Advanced" has no imidacloprid, but seems to be just as effective.
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10-24-2020, 03:24 PM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray
The new version, sold as "Bio-Advanced" has no imidacloprid, but seems to be just as effective.
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Yes, I saw that when I was at the hardware store buying the product I ended up with. It didn't have the Imidacloprid in it, so I was afraid to try it. I was thinking about going back and exchanging what I bought for something else. The one I bought only treats the insects, but no fungal or bacterial stuff. But I guess that doesn't matter since I don't have that issue.
Or I could just quit procrastinating, start using it, and worry about it some other day. Maybe the BioAdvanced a good one to switch up with since there's no Imidacloprid in it. Hmmm
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Caveat: Everything suggested is based on my environment and culture. Please adjust accordingly.
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10-24-2020, 03:36 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Zone: 10a
Location: Coastal southern California, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWitchin
Maybe the BioAdvanced a good one to switch up with since there's no Imidacloprid in it. Hmmm
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A very good idea... the more difference in mechanisms of the different products, the better your odds of killing insects that may have developed some resistance. I recall another member, a few months back, was having some problems (scale I think) that imidacloprid didn't help with because the homeowners's association used large amounts of it (Merit or Marathon)on lawns... so the bugs weren't fazed by it at all, those were the survivors. Evolution is still happening, and it happens fast in insects with their huge numbers and rapid reproduction.
Last edited by Roberta; 10-24-2020 at 03:39 PM..
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10-24-2020, 06:03 PM
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Join Date: May 2013
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Location: Boston, MA
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Hmmm, this is very interesting! Thanks for sharing! According to all these notes, I'm doing just about everything wrong. :-P I have only had my plants (two little things) for about 6 months. I mist 1-2x/daily. I'm growing them nearly bareroot (in mesh baskets with very large orchiata). They are in less than Cat light. Oops! I'm in a FB group of Tolunmia growers and I haven't noticed any of them talking about a dormancy/low-water period, but that doesn't mean much. [[shrug]] I guess I'll go move mine to a brighter part of my shelves!
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10-24-2020, 06:20 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Zone: 10a
Location: Coastal southern California, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrDawn
Hmmm, this is very interesting! Thanks for sharing! According to all these notes, I'm doing just about everything wrong. :-P I have only had my plants (two little things) for about 6 months. I mist 1-2x/daily. I'm growing them nearly bareroot (in mesh baskets with very large orchiata). They are in less than Cat light. Oops! I'm in a FB group of Tolunmia growers and I haven't noticed any of them talking about a dormancy/low-water period, but that doesn't mean much. [[shrug]] I guess I'll go move mine to a brighter part of my shelves!
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I think the only thing "wrong" is that they do need high light. As long as they're getting a bath at least once a day (and twice if it's hot/dry) nearly bareroot should work fine - these hate to stay wet. I also don't think it's a seasonal thing, particularly. They come from monsoonal climates (like the Caribbean and Central America) where they get REALLY wet in the summer and fall, less rainfall in winter, but are never really dry - in winter it's still humid, and there is dew. If you have them in the house, they will be plenty dry... drier than they probably would like to be. Not something that you would have to work at...
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