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  #11  
Old 03-18-2015, 05:07 AM
jmmehler jmmehler is offline
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As for when they get too big, just cut off one or more branches, stick it in some dirt, and they root immediately. You now have a new, and manageable sized plant.
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  #12  
Old 03-18-2015, 11:30 AM
haika haika is offline
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I've got three plumeria in the Pacific Northwest. I grow them in a west facing window. I do tend to forget them during the winter when babying other plants through the cold/dark times, since I know they will revive and put out new leaves in the spring. I don't get blooms often, but hope for more action once I get a south-facing solarium built (it's on the someday list). I grow them in a 50:50 sand/loam mix in clay pots. None are very large. I've grown them for about 5 years now.
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  #13  
Old 03-18-2015, 11:46 AM
RandomGemini RandomGemini is offline
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How big are yours? If I could keep them under four feet, that would be ideal for me, but I would love it if they stayed fairly short and were easier to manage initially.
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  #14  
Old 03-18-2015, 12:07 PM
haika haika is offline
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Yes, mine are under 3' and one is a compact/small type so isn't expected to ever get that large. I have hibiscus much much larger than these plumerias! I did get them with my eventual solarium in mind....now just need to get to the building stage...some day! I got the compact plant mailorder from Logees. The other 2 came as cuttings from a grower in Hawaii.
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  #15  
Old 03-18-2015, 02:44 PM
Paul Paul is offline
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In the islands (I believe I read in areas like California also), they are also very prone to whitefly. Spidermites are the scourge of many indoor plants. One actual advantage of allowing yours to go dormant in the winter -- with the accompanying leaf loss -- would be nothing for the spidermites to infest.

As for pot tipping, as you already grow dens, you know all about anchoring the pot ... either via the bungee method or by placing its pot in a heavy clay/ceramic pot.


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  #16  
Old 03-18-2015, 03:05 PM
RandomGemini RandomGemini is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul View Post
In the islands (I believe I read in areas like California also), they are also very prone to whitefly. Spidermites are the scourge of many indoor plants. One actual advantage of allowing yours to go dormant in the winter -- with the accompanying leaf loss -- would be nothing for the spidermites to infest.



As for pot tipping, as you already grow dens, you know all about anchoring the pot ... either via the bungee method or by placing its pot in a heavy clay/ceramic pot.






Indeed! I started putting hydroton in the bottom of the pots to help weigh them down some and have their plastic pots inside ceramic orchid pots. I also had to train my dogs to sit whenever they are close to my dens' plant stand. LOL!
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  #17  
Old 03-19-2015, 09:32 PM
tarev tarev is offline
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I grow Plumerias in containers. It took me three years to get it right. One of my Plumerias is called Plumeria rubra 'Celadine' This cultivar is more tolerant of cold. I initially put it indoors two years ago during winter, and stays outdoors from late Spring to late Fall. Then for this winter, I decided to leave it outdoors since it has been really so dry here in California. The only time I did bring it indoors during this winter is if we have a hard freeze warning which is in the range below 30F. Above that it survives okay. But I have kept it drier once outside in the cold. We did have occasional rains, but it was so infrequent and it held on to its leaves. To be honest my problem were the nasty snails!

My other plumeria is just called Plumeria Yellow. This one promptly drops its leaves once Fall season becomes cooler, so once it does that, I bring it indoors by our south facing window all winter long. It will eventually drop all the leaves and go dormant, so totally no watering.

As our temps go back more stable overnight where it is no longer going below 50f, then I bring it out together with other plants overwintered indoors. But I put it in part shade first to acclimate with the change. Typically, like now, it is just in leaf claw stage, where the tips have those reddish claw-like growth which are the new leaves forming. I just wait patiently till at least one leaf has formed nicely, before I attempt to give it any watering and then resume fertilizing.

Celadine is different, it did not drop all its leaves, so I have already resumed giving it some water. And it is in a more full sun position now outdoors. Our area is intensely hot during summer and thankfully we have some shade here from the trees. By summer time, I really have to treat these plants like tropical plants, gets more frequent watering, when temps are very warm. I got my first Celadine blooms last year in Fall. That was a surprise to me really, never expected a fall bloom from it since most other growers get their blooms in Spring to Summer.

You can definitely trim down the plant while it is dormant, especially if it has grown several tips, but make sure you cut at least 18 inches long, so there is enough energy in the cutting.

Oftentimes, the hardest part is giving it the loving neglect it needs when it is time to wake up. Find a nice part sun/part shade area and leave it there, till it grows the claws and then becomes leaves. I made the mistake in my earlier attempts before of exposing the cutting to intense sun right away, somehow it stunted the growth, eventually I killed it thinking it needs water. No leaves, no roots. It may even try to form flowers first before the leaves, but do not be deceived, those are just latent buds. You got to have leaves forming, to be assured of root formation below.

Just adding, it really needs to be outdoors during the warmer months. It is a tropical plant that enjoys full sun as long as properly watered.

This is Plumeria rubra 'Celadine' in bloom late Sept 2014.
Growing Plumeria  Indoors?-img_1593-jpg

Last edited by tarev; 03-19-2015 at 11:16 PM..
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  #18  
Old 03-19-2015, 10:25 PM
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merkity merkity is offline
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I have recently dived into the plumeria growing as well. I am in N california, so in a pot they stay! I did leave mine out all winter and covered during frost warnings, but it was a mild winter, i couldn't get the silly things to go dormant until late november. mine absolutely thrived on being in the full sun all day - once it had leaves. unfortunately a lot of folks in S cali lost several plants this year when it snowed down there.
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  #19  
Old 03-19-2015, 11:36 PM
tarev tarev is offline
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Just some photos of my Plumeria Celadine last year, to give you an idea how fast it will grow if it is outdoors getting all the sun it needs during Spring to late Fall:
Growing Plumeria  Indoors?-plumeria-celadine-update-17july2014-jpg

During blooming time in late Sept 2014: have to move it down that brick ledge, since it is getting top heavy
Growing Plumeria  Indoors?-plumeria-celadine-bloom20sep2014-2-jpg

Photo by late Oct 2014:
Growing Plumeria  Indoors?-img_2769-jpg

This March 2015: older leaves are being dropped and holding on to the younger ones:
Growing Plumeria  Indoors?-img_4810-jpg

It has formed a tri-tip, so it is branching out:
Growing Plumeria  Indoors?-img_4816-jpg

My biggest enemy last winter were snails, somehow they reached the tip part and chewed on it, so there are bite marks left. They did not get to finish it off, maybe the latex of the plant knocked them down.
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  #20  
Old 03-20-2015, 12:38 PM
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Andre Andre is offline
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I gave them a shot indoors in the winter. Unfortunately mine were spider mite magnets. Outdoors they are fine with the rain in the summer.


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