Carnivorous Plants - Page 9 - Orchid Board

Andrew · #81 03-21-2014, 01:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laserbeak

How deep do the roots of carnivorous plants go? I've appropriated a large planter outside to use for them, and need to know how deep the soil needs to be.

I wouldn't worry about the depth of your planter. Most carnivorous plants will use whatever root space you give them. Sarra's, particularly, do well with a deep root run. Even shallow rooted plants like Mexican Pings do fine in deep pots if you're happy to pay for the extra media you need to fill them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laserbeak

How deep do the roots of carnivorous plants go? I've appropriated a large planter outside to use for them, and need to know how deep the soil needs to be. I'll fill in the bottom with styrofoam peanuts or just perlite or something.

Are you planning on watering the pot by tray? Packing the base of the pot with styrofoam might stop the water wicking up into the mix. If you're using a peat mix, I would recommend plugging the drainage holes with a bit of sphagnum to stop the peat being flushed out of the pot over time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laserbeak

oh and I'm going to be putting in one of those plants that smell like stinking meat in the center. Thanks!

What type of plant is it? Maybe my nose is desensitized but I've never noticed much of a smell coming from by CP's. Tip a Nep or a purp pitcher out and it stinks to high heaven but the liquid in the pitchers seems to contain the stench if they're left alone. Have you been over feeding it or maybe the mix has gone sour?

Paul · #82 03-21-2014, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laserbeak

How deep do the roots of carnivorous plants go?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andrew

I wouldn't worry about the depth of your planter. Most carnivorous plants will use whatever root space you give them. Sarra's, particularly, do well with a deep root run.

As with plants in general, there is a range depending upon the genera. Typically, vfts, many drosera, and Sarracenia tend to have deep roots. Pings, in contrast, are very shallow rooted plants.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laserbeak

I'll fill in the bottom with styrofoam peanuts or just perlite or something.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andrew

Packing the base of the pot with styrofoam might stop the water wicking up into the mix. If you're using a peat mix, I would recommend plugging the drainage holes with a bit of sphagnum to stop the peat being flushed out of the pot over time.

I would agree -- skip the packing peanuts. The plants will be better off with an "airier" mix throughout the pot than the perched water table that would ensue from use of the Styrofoam. And Andrew is quite correct about the Styrofoam interfering with wicking ... it is quite hydrophobic.

To "block" the hole or holes in the bottom of the pot(s) you can also use a piece of coir -- like from those sheets of coir fiber used for hanging baskets -- or you can use a piece of a plastic mesh -- as from window screening or from the mesh bags onions and such are sold in.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laserbeak

-- oh and I'm going to be putting in one of those plants that smell like stinking meat in the center. Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andrew

What type of plant is it? Maybe my nose is desensitized but I've never noticed much of a smell coming from by CP's.

I suspect, Andrew, that LB is referring to one of the various "corpse flowers" ... not a cp.

Assuming I am correct with the type of plant you are referring to, keep in mind, LB, that such plants will not survive bog conditions ... at least none that I know of. Such a plant would have to have its own pot and likely a very different media and watering regimen.

Quote:

Originally Posted by No-Pro-mwa

Dang it, I wish I had never read this thread. Now I want to try a venus fly trap. So just how cold can they get?

I suspect that factors such as snow cover or leaf/plant litter for insulation could prove an important factor. I know I have had plants survive for many years in zone 5 that should not have. However, up at my folks' place (where I do my outdoor gardening) they typically get heavy snowfall that lasts throughout the winter. The snow acts as an insulator keeping the ground and plants warmer than areas of the country that are just as cold but do not have the snow cover.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laserbeak

How much fish food and light does it need?

Supplemental feeding is unnecessary, LB. Like all green plants, they make all the food they need from sunlight. Animal matter is simply fertilizer. If you can put the plants outside for the summer, they should be able to catch what they need. Or you can catch some flies, or large ants, et cetera to feed them over the summer.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laserbeak

It's in 3" pot, and i haven't received it yet so I don't know exactly how healthy it is. I imagine the best thing for me to do is keep it inside for now until April or so then I can leave it upstairs permanently.

Yes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laserbeak

Of course I can always bring it inside if gets really cold, like below 20°F or something. But this winter notwithstanding, we usually don't get too many of those days in the winter, just a few.

If you bring it in during such a time, it will have to go somewhere very chilly like your fridge. It is possible that a warm up could trigger the plant to try to break dormancy.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laserbeak

I have a GIGANTIC bag of perlite (very coarse, but I can pound it up if necessary)

No need to break up the perlite ... you can sift or pick out any "huge" pieces if you wish but it probably isn't necessary.

Light-wise, as has been mentioned, for vfts ... full sun. However, remember that you will have to harden the plant off as you would any seedlings or indoor plant(s) that are being introduced to full outdoor sun.

Dante1709 · #83 05-19-2014, 08:11 PM

I bought a Nepenthes ventricosa on a whim ; my only other option was a VFT. A few years back I was looking into VFTs, but I remember them seeming difficult and I just had a general sense of wariness towards it.

Little did I know the Nepenthes would have gotten me into orchids! I think it's doing the best out of all my plants and it's pretty adaptable. It's constantly root growing leaves at a rapid pace and it doesn't take too much sunlight for it to stay green and healthy.

I'm looking into getting some more CPs..Ping. moranensis/moctezumae look nice, as well as D. capensis/aliciae/adelae. I might even add some Sarr. purpurea ssp. purpurea, since they are native to my area.

tarev · #84 05-19-2014, 08:40 PM

I can only grow with no hassle Pinguiculas. They are not picky with tap water. Okay on our north facing window..loves fungus gnats..and it has lovely blooms too!

Subrosa · #85 05-19-2014, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dante1709

I bought a Nepenthes ventricosa on a whim ; my only other option was a VFT. A few years back I was looking into VFTs, but I remember them seeming difficult and I just had a general sense of wariness towards it.

Little did I know the Nepenthes would have gotten me into orchids! I think it's doing the best out of all my plants and it's pretty adaptable. It's constantly root growing leaves at a rapid pace and it doesn't take too much sunlight for it to stay green and healthy.

I'm looking into getting some more CPs..Ping. moranensis/moctezumae look nice, as well as D. capensis/aliciae/adelae. I might even add some Sarr. purpurea ssp. purpurea, since they are native to my area.

You're right across the river from Detroit which is USDA zone 6B. I live in 6B and my VFTs survived last winter's record breaking cold outside in an above ground half barrel. VFTs will be perfectly hardy outside year round in the ground where you are. Here's a pic from Jan, and a current pic (I did divide the plant earlier this spring so the current pic shows a much smaller plant. But it does have several flower stalks)

Dante1709 · #86 05-19-2014, 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Subrosa

You're right across the river from Detroit which is USDA zone 6B. I live in 6B and my VFTs survived last winter's record breaking cold outside in an above ground half barrel. VFTs will be perfectly hardy outside year round in the ground where you are. Here's a pic from Jan, and a current pic (I did divide the plant earlier this spring so the current pic shows a much smaller plant. But it does have several flower stalks)

Awesome! I've heard of people around my zone growing S. leucophylla and S. alata outdoors, but they cover them with pine needles. I might try that, but VFTs don't appeal to me much.

Subrosa · #87 05-19-2014, 11:09 PM

My S. flava was the only Sarr other than my purps to survive in the same barrel.

Laserbeak · #88 05-26-2014, 04:59 PM

After getting sick of buying distilled water by the gallon at the grocery store, and not wanting to buy a RO system unless it was required, I bought a $17 TDS tester from Amazon.

My New York City water shows up as 49ppm TDS, which is below even the lowest recommended maximum levels I've found, so out goes the distilled water! Whew... that just saved me a bunch of money either way.

Dante1709 · #89 05-26-2014, 11:35 PM

Rainwater is also a really good solution. I usually bottle my water after it rains a lot, to avoid getting detritus (from nearby trees) in the water. It's also not a good idea to use water that runs down roofing ; it can contain all sorts of chemicals and minerals.

Make sure to label the bottle though! I had a family member accidentally drink it ; fortunately, there wasn't any ill effects.

Paul · #90 05-27-2014, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laserbeak

My New York City water shows up as 49ppm TDS, which is below even the lowest recommended maximum levels I've found, so out goes the distilled water! Whew... that just saved me a bunch of money either way.

An note of concern I would bring up, LB, is for you to check to see if NYC adds either fluoride or chlorine to its water. Very common for cities to do, but not a good thing for the plants.