Aroids to keep the orchids company

[smweaver]

Instead of making a house payment this month, I decided to splurge on a few aroid seedlings to keep the orchids company: Philodendron El Choco Red (if anyone knows the actual species name for this--assuming it's not a hybrid--please let me know), Anthurium regale, and Anthurium magnificum. I have an Anthurium clarinervium and an Anthurium warocqueanum still in transit. Hopefully they will arrive in as decent of condition as these three.

If anyone has experience growing any of these, I would greatly appreciate knowing what you've done right and wrong (especially in regards to high and low temperature tolerances).

[DeaC]

Attractive. From what I see lately these are quite popular and not inexpensive. I also wanted to diversify so I'm trying pitcher plants and hoyas. Will it ever end?!

[smweaver]

I think hoyas would be interesting to grow also. I like the idea of growing a pitcher plant, but I know that I would also feel bad for it killing insects (and yes, I am well aware that that's an odd sentiment to hold). If I could find a carnivorous plant that dined exclusively on slugs and snails, however, I would find a way of getting over any misgivings about helping them make an early exit from the stage.

[estación seca]

I've been growing them about a year. An expert friend here is guiding me. There is a man growing quite a few outdoors in Phoenix with sun protection by trees.

Species Anthuriums are more picky about plenty of air at the roots than are most orchids. People tend to use potting soil/perlite mixes that are extremely open. I used #4 extra large perlite 75% or so with the remainder a high quality potting mix from a hydroponics shop. My friend said most people use transparent pots with cuttings or bare-root plants so they can watch root growth. I used 1-quart deli food containers, the same ones I use for S/H growing. Repot the cuttings or bare-root plants and water well. Don't water again until medium is so dry you no longer see condensation in the pot. I used 5-gallon black plastic nursery containers for some from Ecuagenera that were very much larger than I expected, with the same potting mix.

Some are particular about too-high humidity and incorrect temperatures. The Ecuagenera site lists a lot, with humidity and temperature requirements low, medium and high. Take a look. Some of the most dramatic large Anthuriums prefer low humidity and intermediate temperatures, like in a house.

Philodendrons are even pickier about air at the roots. When in doubt just press the stem horizontally halfway into potting mix. Keep barely moist and very humid. Most Philos prefer very high humidity.

[smweaver]

Thank you, Estacion Seca, for the detailed response. It took me a moment to get over the initial surprise that someone could successfully grow many of these outdoors in Phoenix. Even with shading, there's no way to get around the fact that whatever your friend is growing must be adaptable to very low humidity.

Two of the three plants did, in fact, arrive in what you described: clear plastic pots with slits cut out on three sides. Although I didn't mimic the same type of pot when I transplanted them, I did try to replicate the mix they were in, which appeared to consist of a lot of perlite, bark, coconut husk and (I'm guessing) potting soil. It looks like a mix that phalaenopsis would appreciate (except for maybe the potting soil component).

I'll look at the Ecuagenera site, as you suggest. I'm keeping the humidity level between 65% and 75%, and most of the time it's toward the upper end of that range.

Thanks again for your detailed reply. It's much appreciated.

Steve

[smweaver]

I have sent Ecuagenera an email to find out what approximate temperature ranges they consider for plants labeled "intermediate warm," "intermediate," etc. My idea of an intermediate temperature range may be different than theirs. So hopefully they will be able to provide some numbers for me.

[estación seca]

Another thought - don't give up on an Anthurium if all the leaves die. The stems can remain alive and leafless for many months before deciding to put up another leaf. During this time it won't need much water at all.

[DeaC]

Originally Posted by smweaver

I think hoyas would be interesting to grow also. I like the idea of growing a pitcher plant, but I know that I would also feel bad for it killing insects (and yes, I am well aware that that's an odd sentiment to hold). If I could find a carnivorous plant that dined exclusively on slugs and snails, however, I would find a way of getting over any misgivings about helping them make an early exit from the stage.

Well fwiw...I've never found a bug in a pitcher. Only have 3 plants that I keep indoors. For me , easy to grow. Carnivero, Carnivorous Plants and Tropicals Nursery has great assortment and gives much info on growing. Some need high, medium or low altitude conditions. I learned so much at this site.

[estación seca]

By the way, Hoya is an extremely diverse genus, too, from a huge geographical area in Southeast Asia. Likewise temperature/humidity requirements among the species. A great many are good house plants. The huge-flowered ones everybody wants to grow are not, requiring high humidity and heat.

[smweaver]

Originally Posted by estación seca

The huge-flowered ones everybody wants to grow are not, requiring high humidity and heat.

I will probably avoid the hoyas in general, even though they (like nepenthes) are fascinating. I've now gone from having one expensive hobby (orchids) to having two (orchids + aroids). That's probably enough to keep me from being able to retire early.