Tarzane European Tubers - Summer 2024 Release

[MateoinLosAngeles]

Well, I went a little bit crazy with this release because I've been wanting to grow Ophrys for a very long time. So you will see a trend in my shopping list...

I got:

- Ophrys apifera
- Ophrys apifera “XL”
- Ophrys fuciflora
- Ophrys mammosa
- Orchis italica
- Orchis tridentata
- Himantoglossum robertianum
- Anacamptis papilionacea

I got two Ophrys apifera to see if I could perceive any difference in growth between the regular and the "XL" tuber; not sure if they define "XL" by size or by maturity, but if it is an older tuber, it might be a bit easier to get it established? Time will tell.

For those interested, you can shop the European Terrestrial list here: SHOP TERRESTRIAL ORCHIDS

If you see something you want, get it. The list went live less than 2 hours ago, and two plants have already sold out.

Who else got some tubers???

[Roberta]

Originally Posted by MateoinLosAngeles

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Who else got some tubers???

Me...

Ophrys lutea
Ophrys apifera XL
Ophrys fuciflora XL
Orchis italica
Orchis anatolica

Ophrys fuciflora might be a little more challenging since it ranges a bit farther north. Hopefully, winter will get cool enough to make it happy. Orchis anatolica is another try... last year I ordered it and it turned out to ba a nice Ophrys when it sprouted.

Given the chance, I'll always go for larger tubers. Typically, they come from larger, more mature plants. While I do pretty wll with this whole group, I do end up with the occasional empty pot, too. Prefer to give myself the best chance of success.

So not TOO crazy. I'm really biding my time until the Australian and South African tubers are released, likely in August.

[MateoinLosAngeles]

Originally Posted by Roberta

Me...
Ophrys fuciflora might be a little more challenging since it ranges a bit farther north. Hopefully, winter will get cool enough to make it happy. Orchis anatolica is another try... last year I ordered it and it turned out to ba a nice Ophrys when it sprouted.

There are many subspecies from Mediterranean islands like Sardinia, Sicily, Malta... it apparently grows in SE England where temperatures don't go above 67ºF in Summer and the Day/Night differential in Winter is less than 10º staying between the low and upper 40s... So it definitely likes mild temperatures. Not sure if your fear is regarding daytime temperatures? Our temps fluctuate between low-mid forties and upper 60s in winter, Sardinia has a 20 degree differential but much cooler temps (30s to 50s), so hopefully our daytime 60s and occasional 70 something winter day won't be too hot for it... I might try to grow it in a semi-shaded area. I have a side of my balcony that is shaded by a big tree all day, I placed two European terrestrials and a Begonia they all thrived. Maybe programming the mister to go off mid-day could help? Hmmmm

I will definitely grow Ophrys apifera shaded, probably behind a monstera I have (the fenestrated "swiss cheese" leaves do let some light pass through), I have seen it in bloom in situ in Asturias (Spain) on a construction site in an area that was completely shaded by two big stone walls and facing north. Since I got two, I might test out growing one indoors after it breaks dormancy outdoors, for the higher humidity, perhaps placing a wet terracotta saucer underneath, sitting on a pool of water, to help with localized evaporative cooling.

[Roberta]

Daytime winter temps may be a little high for that one. I do live pretty close to the coast, so it is more temperate than inland. The question mark is how much winter chill it really needs. Last winter I pampered my Japanese terrestrials in the 'fridge, and I got some nice blooming - especially the Ponerorchis. But an orchid society friend who lives in the same general area has some, that he just put outside under the eaves for a bit of shelter from rain, and his did fine too. So the 'fridge might have been an overreaction.

I have been pretty successful with this group, so of course that means that I have to court failure by trying something a bit different.

Another slight change to my usual Mediterranean terrestrial regimen may be that a little moisture in summer may be in order. The UK is a lot wetter in summer than Greece or Italy or Turkey. There aren't any little fairies flying in with umbrellas to keep the dormant tubers dry.

[MateoinLosAngeles]

Originally Posted by Roberta

Another slight change to my usual Mediterranean terrestrial regimen may be that a little moisture in summer may be in order. The UK is a lot wetter in summer than Greece or Italy or Turkey. There aren't any little fairies flying in with umbrellas to keep the dormant tubers dry.

Do you keep your pots outdoors in the summer? I bring mine in for the humidity and to prevent them from getting broiled during heat weaves like the one we just had. Those that fit and I consider more valuable, I keep inside a small terrarium-like glass box I have. Others are just in my storage area

[Roberta]

I leave them out all summer. I use white pots, which do protect from heat a bit, and the area where they sit only gets a few hours of direct sun (through 60% shade cloth) in summer. But yes, they do toast. And seem happy about it. (Have a few that have been going for about 5 years) I don't give them a drop of water either... I start gently watering in mid- to- late October, once nights start to cool off though days can be quite warm. And sprouts start about4- 6 weeks after that and I increase watering. Our weather pattern is so close to what they get in nature, I don't mess with it much except to supplement the "rain" .

[estación seca]

I grow a number of Winter-rainfall, Summer-dormant bulbs outdoors during the Winter. This includes genera like Albuca, Freesia, Gladiolus, Lapeirousia, Moraea and Oxalis. They are often forced into dormancy in Spring when the pots get too hot from solar heating. Sometimes this happens during an early warm spell, whereas they might otherwise have grown for many weeks more.

I now grow them in white foam drinking cups rather than standard pots. The foam insulates the soil from the sun extremely well, and the interior doesn't rise above air temperature. I buy them in sleeves at a restaurant supply store.

Other benefits of foam cups are:

• They are much less expensive than most plastic pots;
• They are narrow and deep, which is better for most terrestrials. A 20-ounce (600ml) foam cup is about 3 1/2" / 9cm wide and 7" tall. They are also better for fitting more plants into a limited space;
• It is easy to make holes in them with a chopstick, a knife, or anything else - or not make holes at all for wet growers;
• They come in many different capacities;
• If written on with a black ball point pen and the writing is turned away from the sun, it lasts multiple years, and the indentation from writing can still be read for even more years;
• They last at least 7-8 years outside in the sun before degrading and becoming very fragile.

[alecStewart1]

I got

• Anacamptis papilionacea
• Serapias vomeracea

The foam cups sounds like a good idea, especially since it gets really hot where I am.

I'd be curious about substrate. I quickly read that Anacamptis papilionacea grows in more rocky soils in nature, so I wonder if getting some kind of pumice to add in with the peat + perlite + sand mixture I have for my carnivorous plants (mainly for the sarrs and venus flytraps).

[Roberta]

I grow my Mediterranean terrestrials in a mix that's about 80%-85% inorganic (pumice is my choice, maybe a little sand) and the balance a well-drained potting soil like cactus mix. Not exact, I don't measure) If it comes from calcareous soils, you can also add a few marble chips (NOT limestone!) to get a very gentle time-release alkalinity. These need super drainage when they do get watered. Your carnivorous plant mix is 'way too organic and water-retentive, probably too acidic also.

I like pumice rather than perlite for the inorganic part for the weight - during the summer, when they are completely dry, you need the weight to keep them from blowing over. Perlite is too light.

Note that these need to be DRY during the heat of summer. See above for my watering regimen. They come from a Mediterranean climate which means hot dry summers and cool wet winters. (Think Greece or Turkey... or coastal southern California) Completely backwards from pretty much most of the rest of what you grow. You'll need to completely protect them from summer rain. Don't worry about summer heat - that's why they go to sleep in summer.

Also a note, if you are new to these... the little "button" on the tuber needs to be pointed up - that is where both the new growth and the roots will come from. When in doubt, you can also put them on their side, they will figure out which way is up. Put the top of the tuber about half an inch to an inch (1-2.5 cm) below the surface... don't put too deep.

[alecStewart1]

Sounds good, Roberta. Any pumice brand you recommend, by chance?

Originally Posted by Roberta

Also a note, if you are new to these... the little "button" on the tuber needs to be pointed up - that is where both the new growth and the roots will come from.

Ah, that could explains why the shoots on my Ponerorchis graminifolia came out like they're no where near where I put the tubers. I bet I put them upside down. Unless they aren't the same as the European terrestrials. They have grown just fine, outside of some caterpillar munching on some of their leaves at one point.