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I have grown sarcs both in the gh and under lights--I believe that they bloom better in the gh, but think it has more to do with the cooler night temps that I am able to give them in that space. I grow them both in a bark:perlite mix (2:1) and in long fiber sphagnum; usually in plastic pots. They need to be kept moist at the roots, the media should just begin to dry--under lights I water every 2-3 days most of the year; it just depends on how high I have the fans circulating. In the gh, I water them daily when day temps are above 75F and night temps are above 60F; during the winter they get watered every 10-15 days, as I run the gh cold (60F day/45F night) Humidity under lights usually runs 60-70%; the gh usually runs 50-60%; higher in the evening hours than during the day. I use kelpmax once a month, Alaska Fish fertilizer once a month and plain water the rest of the time. I don't use supplemental light in the gh; plants are under 50% shade year round. I grow under LED lights 16 hour days mid February-mid November, 14 hour days late November-early February. If you are growing on a slab, the above culture will work as well, but increase watering to every day; twice a day (early morning and again mid-afternoon) from about mid May to the end of September. There are a couple of species sarcs that are aberrations to these guidelines; Sarc. cecilae being one; it's very finicky regarding media as I believe it is a lithophyte in nature--I've killed a fair share of the them, they need to essentially sit on a small pad of moss on a chunk of granite and receive only ro/rainwater with very very little fertilizer. Hope this helps; I'd try cutting back on the fertilization schedule and increasing the duration of your lighting. Adam |
Thanks, StoneDragon, Mine is potted in a bark mix, has some perlite in it. It is about 2 feet from the lights. Lights are on from 6:30 am to 5 Pm and sun comes through the windows til 7 or so. It's a beautiful bright room especially when the sun comes in. It's been really cold this week, so humidity is lower because the heater has been running more. It's been around 60%. I'm afraid to have it closer to the lights because I'm afraid of burning the leaves. they already have a couple of small spots on them. I do try to keep it moist, but don't want to rot the roots
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I'd like us to consider adding Cattleya walkeriana & Laelia sincorana to the list as well. Both should be available on both sides of the pond.
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I know Leptotes bicolor has been suggested in the past and I still wouldn't mind trying that one.
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I think this is the list.
Dens. loddigesii (spring 2010 project) Den. Monileforme D. senile Den. infundibulum Amesiella monticola part 2 (for those who don't want to miss a moment of their plant's progress but are never around) Cattleya or member of Pleurothallis group Vanilla Ascocentrum pumilum easy bulbophyllum Sarcochilus falcatus Soph. coccinea Oberonia Cattleya walkeriana Laelia sincorana Leptotes bicolor |
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Adam |
Dendrobium infundibulum: Hausermann's has it
Vanilla planifolia: Hausermann's and Seattle Orchid both have it on sale |
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