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07-14-2013, 10:37 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2012
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Just noticed we were made a sticky!
My flasklings are doing 95% ok, in 3 weeks I lost 6 tiny runts. However, I'm seeing mold on agar residue, and in a couple of cases it spread to kill the plant. I've been picking out nearby sphagnum and spraying with sulfur, and so far, the rest of the plants in the same compot seem to be okay. But I'm concerned.
I deflasked 4 and 3 weeks ago, and I've just started taking off the plastic domes for the entire night. In the morning, humidity in the propagation tray is 80%, and the plants are not shriveling. So I plan to extend the open time by an hour or so every day. At what age can I remove the domes completely, provided the humidity stays above 70%? And should I plan on covering them again in the winter, when it will drop to 50?
I have another question about a couple of clumps of protocorms. Ideally, I should have replated them, but I have neither the skills nor the equipment to do so. So I carefully placed the clumps on damp sphagnum, and they haven't done anything in 4 weeks. Should I continue to hope against all odds, or should I ditch them before they become a breeding ground for mold?
Also, is anyone adding calcium and magnesium to their water? I'm concerned about the sphagnum pH dropping too low without them.
Last edited by ALToronto; 07-14-2013 at 10:41 AM..
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07-14-2013, 07:13 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
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07-19-2013, 04:46 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
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my bulbos don't seem to be doing anything - I subsequently moved them to the basement under T5s. Lets see if there is an improvement. The temperature and humidity is more constant there.
.....my other batch are growing as if there is no tomorrow. Impressive leaf and root growth...
Nobby's Amy Cross
I have got another cross to deflask, still very small though. Interesting as they were flasked around the same time as Nobby's Amy. Nominal leaf growth but quite a lot of root growth. Anyone know which is the more important at the seedling stage ?
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07-19-2013, 07:55 PM
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Don't really know. I think sometimes they do it alternatly so it's just a case of what stage they are at?
The Nobby's are looking good. Interesting that they seem fine at 60% humidity. Some of them have a lot of colour too! Guess there will be some dark/patterned flowers.
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07-19-2013, 09:57 PM
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I had a few seedlings that had very little leaf growth but disproportionately big roots. Unfortunately, about half of the roots have now rotted away, and I've lost some of the plants altogether. I don't even keep the sphagnum very wet, just damp. I hope this experience helps.
I'm expecting to lose quite a few roots, since the sphagnum is not like the agar that these roots are accustomed to. So without good leaf growth, I don't think the seedlings will have much of a chance when the roots begin to go. I'm already seeing some new root growth, and these roots will be the ones that last.
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07-19-2013, 11:19 PM
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well I will soon deflask the other cross I have - and in that one the roots are doing well and the leaves comparatively not so much. Good comparison going forward between the two crosses.
I would post photos of the flask, but due to the reflective glare, no detail can be seen....
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08-03-2013, 09:32 AM
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My LDBQ seedlings, about a month after deflasking. No losses so far, see some progress - new roots, new leaves.
Thanks for looking.
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Post Thanks / Like - 4 Likes
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08-03-2013, 10:50 AM
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Orchideya, they look great! What are you feeding them? And do you keep them on a heat mat?
We had stinking hot weather through mid-July, but the last two weeks, it's been steadily 20-23 degrees. I've had the domes off for some time now, but I'm considering putting them back on just to keep some warmth from the sun and the fluorescents.
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08-03-2013, 11:56 AM
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having experience with seedlings of a couple different species/hybrids ( phals, bulbos,milts & zygos ), I would say that the 2 most important requirements are
1) a fairly high, constant, humidity - min 60%. It keeps the roots firm and growing.
2) a constant temp. Mine are 68-75f max.
I also have learnt that if you can't detect any noticeable growth - in roots or leaves/size - then you have to re-examine the growing conditions and act to correct the problems quickly.
If your plants are growing and look healthy, then I also don't think you need to spray against fungus or bacteria.
Fertilising only every 6 weeks..
So - an objective of mine is to bloom a seedling 1 year after deflasking......we'll see !
What do you guys think ?
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
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08-03-2013, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALToronto
Orchideya, they look great! What are you feeding them? And do you keep them on a heat mat?
We had stinking hot weather through mid-July, but the last two weeks, it's been steadily 20-23 degrees. I've had the domes off for some time now, but I'm considering putting them back on just to keep some warmth from the sun and the fluorescents.
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Thank you!
I feed them from the beginning with balanced all purpose fertilizer 20-20-20 but in very low concentration. I just throw few crystals into spray bottle with warm tap water.
I don't use heat mat but they are in the orchid tank with day temps about 25 degrees and night at 20 degrees. Humidity is around 80 % .
I didn't desinfect moss, didn't use any fungicide ( I think I read somewhere that it can stunt the growth) but I used fresh clean moss and thoroughly washed all the flasking medium from the plantlets when deflasking.
I used this method with my two previous flasks and they are growing nicely.
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