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  #1  
Old 07-16-2010, 03:13 PM
zxyqu zxyqu is offline
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Best conditions for Zygopatellum spike? Male
Default Best conditions for Zygopatellum spike?

Hey everyone, once again I continue to fail to get spikes. I've gotten 6 new growths in just under a year out of my zygopatellum blue-bird, but haven't gotten a spike? Any thoughts? Thanks
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Old 07-16-2010, 06:49 PM
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King_of_orchid_growing:) King_of_orchid_growing:) is offline
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You'll get some soon...

Hint:

The inflorescences don't come from the old pseudobulbs...
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Old 07-16-2010, 06:54 PM
zxyqu zxyqu is offline
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I know... Impatient, but 2 of the new growths are full now, while 4 are at varying stages. Just looking for a pointer or 10 to get things going.
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Old 07-16-2010, 07:16 PM
WhiteRabbit WhiteRabbit is offline
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hehe -
I know zygos bloom from growth that is still quite small - i haven't yet got mine to rebloom tho. I know I have seen people posting with their zygos blooming and am hoping some of them will have advice for you (and me)
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Old 07-16-2010, 07:50 PM
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nenella nenella is offline
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Hi I only have a hybrid. So my experience is very limited. I have found in my conditions that it likes a more water/humidity than other orchids.I repotted into a mix of bark/hydroton balls/choir- I put spagh. moss on new growths & roots. Mine has really surprised me as it put out a new spike with 4 flowers on it from a recent new growth. I have taken a couple pics - The flowers are not yet fully opened
and I believe it needs even more humidity as the leaf tips are browned... Hope this helps!
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Old 07-16-2010, 07:54 PM
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Okay...

How are the roots? Are most of them healthy and growing.

If the roots are too badly damaged, it can delay blooming.

How's the light?

If it's too shady, the blooms will be infrequent.

Do you water often enough? You can tell if they're not getting enough water because the leaves will either buckle or turn yellow and fall off prematurely. This also affects blooming.

The "weakly weekly" guideline for fertilization is an excellent one. It prevents the unsightly leaf blemishes and leaf tip die back that can occur from over fertilization. Prolonged use of tap water that is high in dissolved minerals also contributes to leaf blemishes and leaf tip die back easily in this genus. Over fertilization also causes problems with the roots, which in turn delays blooming.

Other than that, if the temperature is intermediate to warm, you should get some blooms soon. I don't know what else to say. They really weren't very difficult for me to bloom. I don't know of any "tricks" for these guys.
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Last edited by King_of_orchid_growing:); 07-16-2010 at 08:07 PM..
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Old 07-17-2010, 12:42 AM
Angurek Angurek is offline
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If your plant is as healthy as you say it is, it should be spiking soon. All of the above feedback is great, but here's my contribution: it could be the time of season. With the exception of my Zygonisia, which blooms on and off throughout the year, most of my zygos wait until the time of year is right to bloom. My Z. Blue Blazes, for example, will only bloom in the winter. It may also have to do with the individual plant. Some hybrids are more stubborn to bloom than others, and some clones/individuals will bloom better than most of their counterparts.

Last edited by Angurek; 07-17-2010 at 12:44 AM..
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Old 07-17-2010, 06:39 PM
zxyqu zxyqu is offline
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Ok, I'll try to help summarize on my current conditions, and how I view the plant as a whole. It's in S/H, and has been for roughly the time I've had it. Roots, so far as I can tell through the S/H pot seem fine, but I haven't pulled it out to check officially. It gets south/southwest sun right by a window, that is shaded a bit. I fertilize weakly weekly as well, with one week left off for a flush of the Leca. Overall it's put out one completely new growth, one growth is probably 3/4 complete, and 4 brand new ones, less than 2" long. The only thing I ever really worried about is the leaves. I haven't lost any, and only 1 is showing some tip browning, but they all have a accordian like look. I dont know if it's normal for them or not, but even the new growth have this appearance, so I've paid it little attention. They look a little more crinkled than the pics in nenella's photos. Thanks again for all the comments, and hopefully I can get her squared away.
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Old 07-17-2010, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zxyqu View Post

The only thing I ever really worried about is the leaves. I haven't lost any, and only 1 is showing some tip browning, but they all have a accordian like look. I dont know if it's normal for them or not, but even the new growth have this appearance, so I've paid it little attention. They look a little more crinkled than the pics in nenella's photos.
Leaf tip die back is the leaf tip browning you're describing. Are you using tap water? If not, then reduce the fertilizer concentration a bit more.

Crinkled leaves are what I was talking about too. Leaf buckling ("the accordion look") is a sign that it is not receiving enough water.

This plant will most likely not bloom this season until these problems are fixed - particularly the leaf buckling one.
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Last edited by King_of_orchid_growing:); 07-17-2010 at 07:04 PM..
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Old 07-17-2010, 07:03 PM
WhiteRabbit WhiteRabbit is offline
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Crinkled foliage would suggest plant is too dry - but if it's in s/h I don't know if that could be the case.
Zygos will bloom off pretty new growth - before the pbulbs develop - so if looking for spikes, look to the most recent growth.

I'm wondering if it gets enough light ? This time of year with the sun high in the sky, southern exposure doesn't get much light - tho I don't know about south-west.

I did just yesterday find a little spike on my Bollopetalum - much to my surprise! I have my zygo and zygo hybrids outside with cyms and catts, maybe getting a bit less sun than those.
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