Growing Bifrenaria tyrianthina

[smweaver]

I recently received this plant from a friend whose grandfather passed away and had a few orchids (among lots of other types of plants) in a small lean-to greenhouse he maintained. Since I don't have firsthand experience growing this species, I'd appreciate any feedback anyone who's grown it can provide. The plant seems to be very healthy. It's completing three new pseudobulbs (although there's some spotting on the leaves that I can't identify, it doesn't appear to be interfering with the vigor of the new growths on which the spotting appears), and there are half a dozen small growths that are just starting from around the base of the ring of outer pseudobulbs. The plant's kind of crowded in its ten inch clay pot, and the plant itself (from leaftip to leaftip) is over two feet wide. I've done a lot of reading on line about Bifrenarias (most of which has been relevant to harrisoniae), but still would like to hear from someone who's actually grown this species. Specifically, I'd like to know how much light to give it. Can it take Cattleya light, or should it receive something closer to what Phalaenopsis receive? How much water and fertilizer does it require? From what I could find out about its natural environment, the conditions there sounded rather harsh (distinct wet and dry seasons, lots of sunlight and heat, and--if I read this correctly--the plants often grow on nothing but the cracks of exposed granite cliff facings). Thanks in advance to anyone who can give me a few pointers!

Steve

[Frdemetr]

Congrats! You have a very robust plant! Bifr. thyrianthina is a estrictly rupiculous species, founded in southeastern Brazil (when I live). They love much light, and can live under full sun; I think your specimen has a too dark green color, and it will appreciate more light (a bit more than cattleyas). The roots of Bifr thyrianthina will rot if they are continously moisted, so use a good draining material (more or less 1/3 of the pot) like carcoal pieces and clay pellets, and a easy-drying media (I use an ad-mixture of tree-fern fiber, coconut chips, bark and carcoal). Spots on leaves are normal, and is normal the falling of leaves in back pbulbs as well. Bifrenarias love organic plant food in their roots, I use 'bokashi' (powdered fish among other stinking stuff), and I think Atlas Fish Emulsion would be a good choice. Aditional chemichal fertilizer misted on leaves (Peters 20-20-20), biweekly, low doses (0,5g per liter), helps too bloom. Thyrianthina is the bigger Bifrenaria species, and is an easy grower and easy blooming. Some big specimens of Bifr harrisoniae that grows on rocks (harrisoniae is facultatively rupiculous) are confounded with thyrianthina; some experts says that a great number of cultivated 'thyrianthinas' are in fact 'harrisoniaes'; the differences are quite clear: the harrisoniae spikes are short (often shorter than the pbulbs height), and the spurs in the flowers are short as well. The thyrianthina spikes are long (often as height as leaves) and the flowers spurs are long (its former name were Bifr. magnicalcarata, ie, with a very long spur). Both have a great number of color varieties. Take a look in my gallery!

[smweaver]

Thank you for the great information, Frederico! I'll gradually start to give the plant more light until the leaves lighten slightly in color--and I'm glad to hear that the spots on the leaves are normal and not a sign of impending disaster. To be honest with you, I'm not sure what kind of mix it's growing in since the pseudobulbs are filling up the pot to the point where the new growths that are currently less than a few centimeters tall will eventually grow over the side of the pot by the end of the growing season. So other than some large chunks of bark and what looks like a small amount of sphagnum moss, I don't know what is under all of those growths. The plant must have been growing in this pot for at least a few years since it won't even move even slightly when I try to push a pseudobulb out of the way a little to look down into the pot. Whenever I attemt to repot it I'm probably going to have to break the pot in order to get the plant out. Since it grows in the cracks of rocks in nature, I'm going to postpone repotting it for this growing season and hope that it responds well to the rather cramped quarters it is growing in. Thanks again for your help!

By the way, I looked for your gallery but couldn't find it under the letter "F". Is it under a different letter?

Steve

[smweaver]

Frederico, I just found your gallery. So please disregard my earlier request for directions to it. Very nice plants you have. I have a Stanhopea nigro violacea also, which I'm quite fond of. I look forward to it flowering every summer after all of the Japanese Beetles have died!

[smartie2000]

I think it looks like a healthy plant. Best luck with it

[Shadow]

Looks very happy and healthy. Congratulations, it is a very nice present, but the reason of giving it is very sad.

[smweaver]

Yes, I agree that the circumstances by which I received aren't ideal. But I'd like to think that the plant will at least have a better chance with someone who grows orchids rather than a relative who might not have much interest in it and simply stick it next to a bunch of philodendrons and ignore it or, even worse, throw it away. That is not to imply that I'm the world's best grower--but I do tend to do a lot of reading and research on the plants I have and I'm not afraid to ask questions of more experienced growers when I'm uncertain of what to do. Hopefully the plant will remain happy and (fingers crossed!) throw out some flowers over the next year. Thanks to everyone for your wonderful comments.

[Frdemetr]

Steve,
In my gallery you could see two Bifr harrisoniae varieties (type and alba), and only the 'type' species of Bifr thyrianthina. I've another varieties of both, but they had not blossomed yet (or I didn't photographed they). Unfortunately I didn't show in the pic the long spur of thyrianthina flowers, but is easy to find the diferences among to two 'type' species spikes(harrisoniae and thyrianthina). About repoting your thyrianthina, I think sphagnum is not a good choice, except in a very dry weather. Clay pots are usefull to avoid excess of humidity in the roots, and you could use bark and coconut chips mixed with small pieces of carcoal (to avoid acidity) as media. I prefer a tree-fern fiber ad-mixture with above ingredients, but its hard to find. Good luck with your brazilian beauty!
PS: 'thyrianthina' means 'dressed in purple', nice name, isn't it?

[smweaver]

Thanks, Frederico! Yes, that is a nice name for the plant. I actually am becoming quite fond of this plant--even without the flowers it's impressive. The leaves are very leathery and the pseudobulbs are very hard. When I go to repot it I'll make sure to use a small clay pot with lots of styrofoam peanuts in the bottom, along with large coconut chips for the mix. I've used the coconut chips for a number of years now and have gotten excellent results, even with species that like to dry out a lot between waterings. And I'll follow your advice and avoid the sphagnum moss. Treefern is available here, but potting with it (in my opinion) is not enjoyable. I think I might go ahead and try to find a plant of Bifrenaria harrisoniae to keep the tyrianthina company this summer. :-)