Newbie needs help - re schultz plant food

[epatnova]

Got my first Orchid just recently it's not in bloom and I have repotted it. Yup watched all the online videos and did the deed, so here is my question ----

Bought what I believe to be a phalaenopsis in SuperStore and Schultz Orchid Food - recommended by plant lady in store but would like advice on use. It is water soluble with micronutrients 19-31-17. Has anyone used it?? Please advise. I don't want to burn my plant.

[WhiteRabbit]

I don't think it should harm your orchid, but I believe the nitrogen in this product is mostly from urea, and there is debate on how well orchids can utilize urea based nitrogen.

[RosieC]

Welcome to Orchid Board

I've not used this, it's very high in Phosphorus which makes me think it's a so called 'bloom booster'. Current thinking is that the high phosphorus doesn't help, it is the fact that high phosphorous reduces 'dilutes' the nitrogen and it's the lower nitrogen which promotes blooms.

Having said that I don't think your fertiliser will harm the plant if used at the right concentration. You are more likely to burn the roots if you mix it too concentrated. What dilution rate does it recommend or are you using?

A balanced fertiliser (with all three numbers close to each other) is recommended. The higher the numbers the more you have to dilute it... but that often means it's cheaper in the long run because the same amount lasts longer if you dilute it more. I like a 20-20-20 as opposed to a 6-6-6, both give the same levels of nutrients but you need to use more of the second one to get the same nutrition as the first. However you can use up the one you've got, rather than throwing it away, just best to check the mixing rate first.

I have used it at quarter of recommended strength for a while on my noId phals when just started to grow orchids. It didn't harm them.

Since then I switched to balanced 20-20-20 fert that I bought at Metro grocery store. it is ok too.

[epatnova]

Thank you everyone for the replies.

To answer Rosie C 's question.
"What dilution rate does it recommend or are you using?" I have not used it yet. The recommended dilution rate is .75 g to 2.5 L water (.0264 oz to .660 gallons of water) or for less frequent watering 1.5 g to 2.5 L water (.0529 oz to .660 gallons).

What do you suggest??

Thank you in advance to all.

[RosieC]

Dilution rate is based on the first number for Nitrogen (in your case 19). My own fertilizer has a figure of 13 for Nitrogen and has a dilution rate of 1.5g per 3L at every watering. That is closer to yours and is considered quite a weak solution, but recent recommendations are around that low level.

You could go stronger with no fear of burning the roots. A few years ago recommendations were over double that, and even they were well below the level that burns the roots.

I would have previously done around 1.5g per 1.5 liters with your strength fertilizer and that was considered to be a weak solution that would not burn the roots. However with that strength you are advised to flush every 4 watering with plain water. Some people now suggest that using the lower concentrations your fertilizer advises means you can fertilize at every watering without the need for the flush. To be honest I'm still flushing but I'm considering changing my regime.

So basically... I think you will be fine at that dilution rate

[epatnova]

Thanks

[Stray59]

epatnova:
I am also a newbie, but have found a lot of help already!
The general rule of thumb, on this side of the lake, is that a low level f fertilizer, usually 1/2 manufacture recommended strength at every other watering, with plain water otherwise. I use a fertilizer that was formulated at either a Wisconsin or Michigan University (I forget). It is a 13-3-15 w/ Ca 8 and Mg 2 added for micronutrients. I believe there are more trace elements, but the label is partially missing. I have veered away from the urea based fert's quite awhile ago as they tend to leave a lot of salt deposits in the medium. Just be sure and flush the medium well about 1 X month and you should be fine. If you catch orchid fever and start collecting with abandon, then you might consider investing in a more refined fert, but for just a few plants good old Shultz should be fine!
Best of luck and Happy Growing!

[RosieC]

The 1/2 strength idea can be a little mis-leading as many orchid fertilisers have already taken that into account (though not all) so you need to really know what it's nitrogen level is to calculate the correct strength.

Stray59 if you are using MSU (Michaigain University) that is a very popular one here on Orchid Board, in fact I use a European one that is the same thing for my greenhouse. I believe it can be used at the recommended strength although as I said above advise is changing and saying that used weaker it can be used at every watering without flushing/plain water in between.

I got my calculations from Ray's website where he has a calculator based on the Nitrogen level. That was based on 3 out of 4 waterings being fertiliser and the 4th being a flush (with a lot of plain water poured through) and that's what a lot of people who have been here on orchid board for a while tend to follow, and with good results. However Ray's been changing his recommendation more recently to weaker at every watering, I've not caught up with that yet but it's benefit is an easier regime without having to remember which it needs

[unsardonic]

Hey!

I just joined this Board a few minutes ago & this thread caught my interest.

I've been using the MSU formulation (for tap-water in my case - BUT... they make a 'pure water' version for people who collect rain water or have Reverse Osmosis filtration). THIS IS THE BEST! It is the solution to the, in my opinion, highly appropriate, "Feed a little, a lot," philosophy... no need to dilute: it's worked into the formula: you feed a small amount every watering for 3 weeks, then go fallow for a 4th.

This got started by a couple of professors at MSU who used to work for Fred Clarke in his Poinsettia greenhouses in Latin America. They had provided him Best-Possible-Feed for Euphorbia ("Poinsettia" is E. pulcherrima) at which point he mentioned to them, 'BTW... I grow some orchids as well...'

Dunno where to get it? I cannot recommend enough the Good People at "repotme.com." They provide this as "Feed Me," among many other very useful & excellent things (spectacular tutorial videos, etc.). I CANNOT say enough Good Things about this fine Delaware company... as good as it gets!

BTW... it is not the dilution of nitrogen by an increase of phosphorus that induces blooming, it is the actual phosphorus itself. If reducing nitrogen were to induce blooming, all you'd have to do is take a little nitrogenaceous feed & add water... Why you have to have high-nitrogen for orchids is because wood - raw cellulose - is probably the LEAST nutritious medium anything could be grown in. Yes, we're trying to imitate an orchid's native environment but, once wood begins to decay, the bacteria that provide that decay require nutrition themselves to do what they do. The amount of nitrogen (which is required by any plant to create green tissue) is reduced DRAStically in the process, on average by amounts of 500-to-1, for up to a year or two so... therefore orchids need to have higher amounts of nitrogen than plants with a fully decayed potting medium like soil.

For what orchids are up against in the wild, it's a miracle they survive at all; they really are a miracle of evolution!