which Orchid is this?

[rbarata]

Opss... I think I have looked but didn't see.

[ninad]

Last 2 images are my first deflasking exp 3 weeks ago, I got this flask from my Hawaii trip, god knows how many years it will take to flower.

[ninad]

hmm

[Roberta]

It could use repotting... into a pot just a little larger (don't over-pot). Also, if it has been in that pot since you got it a couple of years ago, the mix is probably broken down. Not a huge rush, it looks healthy. But if it has fresh media in its root zone, it may start to do some growing, too. As with most orchids, water well so that it's running out of the pot, then let go nearly dry (skewer method) before watering again. (Fresh media will dry out faster than old) That heat mat might have saved it from broken down media by helping the drying process even though I doubt that it did much for the growth or blooming potential. With fresh bark, I suggest skipping that. Just give it more light.

[ninad]

thank you guys for all knowledge

Also DO you think I should divide this plants in multiple bulbs?

[Roberta]

Don't be aggressive with dividing - larger plants are stronger. If you divide, you would want to have 3-5 pseudobulbs for each division. But since you're trying to get this plant to "perform", I'd suggest leaving it alone. I don't see much in the way of "back bulbs", looks really healthy. When you repot, remove only dead, mushy roots. Don't try to get all of the old media off if it is stuck to the root... just rinse off what comes off easily and into the new pot. Use small or medium bark, since it probably has fairly fine roots. As you do it, shake pot to get media between roots as well as possible, then as you fill pot, press with thumbs - no potting stick - so that it firmly held in place.

[ninad]

good to know, I might be doing in Feb, I will post after I repot.

[Roberta]

Originally Posted by ninad

good to know, I might be doing in Feb, I will post after I repot.

Sounds like a good plan. Choose pot size for no more than two years' growth. (better to go too small and have to do it again in a year than too large and have the center stay too wet and die) Besides, "tight shoes" may facilitate blooming. If it has more room than it needs, you may get more bulbs and leaves... not what you want.

[estación seca]

When a plant has old, broken-down medium, I sometimes use a strong stream of water from the garden hose to rinse it all off. You can't take the plant outside today

National Weather Service Forecast: New England

but there is no rush to repot, since it's quite healthy other than not blooming. As a substitute you could swish it around in a bucket of water to remove as much old medium as possible.

The plant is easily big enough to bloom, and it continues to grow. I think it has a pale green tinge suggesting insufficient light and/or fertilizer, especially magnesium. Oncidium hybrids are usually easy to bloom if they get enough light and fertilizer.

Different people use different potting media for these with good results. People are successful with everything from sphagnum moss to large-chunk bark. They shouldn't dry out for long. What you use will depend on your temperature, relative humidity and how often you water. But going dry for more than a day or two sets them back.

As for cooling down to initiate buds... I don't know much about Miltoniopsis, so I can't say whether this might be such a plant. But I think some of them do need cooler winters. What do other people say?

[Roberta]

I don't think Miltoniopsis... they tend to be paler, with softer leaves. I'd guess Oncidium or very likely, one of the intergenerics. Tweaking the fertilizer might help improve growing/flowering if everything else is optimized, but it's the least important factor. This one looks really dark green... getting plenty of nutrients for the amount of light that it is getting, but really needs more light... color should be more bright green, almost lime-green. That will come with the light.