What is this handsome flower? - Orchid Board

Faen · #1 03-18-2015, 04:01 PM

Can someone tell me what this is? My daughter bought it for me as a gift and threw away the tag.

A cattelya, perhaps? Caretaking tips appreciated, I'm not very good with gardening.

Thanks!

Romeomffn · #2 03-18-2015, 04:15 PM

It is a Phalaenopsis. Keep in medium to low light. Near a window is good. water thoroughly when medium feels dry. If it is damp, wait to water. You can set it in a pan or plate that has water to increase humidity but make sure to put something under the pot so the pot itself is not sitting in water. good luck

RosieC · #3 03-18-2015, 04:40 PM

Welcome to Orchid Board

It's a Phalaenopsis (Phal) orchid. You won't be able to find a species or hybrid (grex) name for it but don't worry about that. It will be a complex hybrid of some sort and they are usually sold without exact names, but all have very similar care.

They like non-direct light. They like to be bright enough but not in direct sunlight or they can burn. Generally they like standard house type temps which is why they are so popular as house plants.

Watering Phals is the key to initial success in growing them. Too wet and the roots can rot, too dry and they don't get enough water.

The key is to realise that they like plenty of water BUT they also like air around their roots. Generally if they are overwatered and the roots rot it's because the water causes the gaps in the medium (usually bark or moss) to get filled with water and air can't get in. Medium staying wet all the time also tends to decay faster which also causes less air to get in to the roots.

So, most people advise keeping them relatively pot bound (no big soggy sections of the medium that take longer to dry with no roots in them) and also letting them dry fully between watering.

First make sure the pot has holes in the bottom. Often you will have an inner plastic pot (clear makes things easier) with holes in, then an outer pot (cache pot) without holes. That's fine, most of mine in the house have that. Otherwise you probably want a saucer or drip tray under the pot.

When you water water with lots of water, not just a dribble. This is where many people here about overwatering and go too far the other way. You can either fill the outer pot with water right up to the top and soak the medium for 10min or so, then empty and completely drain, or pour a lot of water through the medium making sure it's thoroughly wet. I use both methods, I think soaking makes sure you get it wet enough. Make sure after it's drained to come back and check for more water dribbled into outer pot/tray and pour it back. It's often surprising how much dribbles out after you think it's fully drained. You don't want to leave the pot standing in water.

Then it's a case of how long to wait before you water again. If it's in a clear inner pot look for the roots turning silvery at the bottom (not just on top) which is an indicator that they are dry/drying. Otherwise many people use a wooden skewer pushed into the medium (use the same hole each time to avoid unnecessary damage to roots) left for a few minutes then pulled out (or left in permanently and just pulled out to test if it needs watering). If the skewer is damp or cold to the touch it's a sign it's still damp in the middle and needs to wait a bit longer to water. You can also test for when to water by the weight of the pot, but that takes a bit of practice. Feel the pot weight before and after watering and you will start to get a feel for the difference.

Hope that doesn't sound too complicated, it isn't really, it's just a case of watering well, but not so often they sit in water or so that air can't get to the roots.

Faen · #4 03-18-2015, 06:08 PM

Thanks, very helpful!

It came from the store with an inner plastic pot and some sort of unglazed pottery outer container that I can see gets damp when I water it. It seems the outer pot absorbs any excess water and allows it to dry out.

I have it by the window you see and the sun is filtered by large trees.

Does it want misting? Would it be happier in a bathroom?

Also, is there a point at which I should consider repotting it?

So happy to have found this forum, thanks again.

Plodde · #5 03-18-2015, 06:42 PM

I'm in love!

Stray59 · #6 03-19-2015, 12:30 AM

Faen:
Welcome to the Board! I hope you enjoy it as much as I do - it is a GREAT place to learn about orchids. But, I am warning you now, your plant should have come with a tag that read "WARNING - THIS PLANT IS HIGHLY CONTAGIOUS, LEADING TO ADDITIONAL ORCHID PURCHASES, LACK OF COUNTER SPACE, BANKRUPTCY, AND A SLOWLY PROGRESSING MADNESS" - There is no cure, no 12-step programs, no medication, just this board where we all indulge in our addiction. If you keep this plant, you will either adore your daughter all the more, or end up never allowing her in your home again - You have been warned, so water and car for this plant at your own risk!

SHOULD YOU DECIDE TO PROCEED:
It sounds like you have good lighting, so that is a plus. And Phalae's LOVE to be misted, and appreciate a higher humidity when they can get it. They must have air circulation, as stale or stagnant air will lead to root or crown rot, mold and mildew issues, etc. Also, keep them out of drafts, avoiding temperature changes which can lead to the blooms falling off and the plant declining.
They will not tolerate chlorine, salt or high mineral content in their water, so I purchase Reverse Osmosis-filtered water at my grocery store and use it, always putting a little fertilizer (about 1/8 strength) in the RO water so there is some mineral content for the plant to use; clean rain water can be used also.
Two ways to check when you need to water has been described on the board often. One way is to stick a wooden skewer down among the roots and every few days pull it out; when the stick comes out dry, it is time to drench the root ball well. The crown of the plant shouldn't hold water for long, or else it will rot so I tilt my phalae's over to one side in order to drain any excess water out pf the crown after I water them.
You can also feel the weight of the plant when it is completely dry, then comparing that to it's weight when it is freshly watered. In time you can judge by the weight when it is time to water.
For feedings, a rule of thumb with all orchids is to fertilize "weakly, weekly" - it is easiest to use a fertilizer formulated for orchids, usually available where other plant fertilizers are sold. I Use 1/2 the suggested strength and put it in my sprayer and mist the orchids with it once a week; orchids will absorb nutrients not only through their roots, but also their leaves and stalks so you will want to "feed" the entire plant. If you choose a salt-based fertilizer (the blue or green crystal stuff), you will need to flush the media out every few months to avoid salt build-up.
Once the blooms die you can cut the spike back, leaving a couple of nodes; sometimes additional, blooming branches will emerge. If not, the spike will dry up and can be cut back close to the plant. Always use clean, sterile blades to cut any orchid, as they do catch infections.
Phalae's can stay in the same pot for a couple of years, but when they become root bound, the media starts to rot, or they develop rotted roots, you will need to repot.
If you can see through the inner pot and you see black roots or mold, you will need to repot. Should you choose to repot it, unless it is an emergency, you will want to wait until it has stopped blooming, otherwise all the blooms will fall off.
There are some good videos on you-tube that demonstrate how to repot various orchids, including phalae'. There are also some really good posts here that you can check out, just search for "repotting phalaenopsis" - I am sure someone has already described the process well.
Again, welcome to the Board, I hope some of this helps - and let us know when the Fever starts to kick in!

RandomGemini · #7 03-19-2015, 02:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stray59

Faen:

Welcome to the Board! I hope you enjoy it as much as I do - it is a GREAT place to learn about orchids. But, I am warning you now, your plant should have come with a tag that read "WARNING - THIS PLANT IS HIGHLY CONTAGIOUS, LEADING TO ADDITIONAL ORCHID PURCHASES, LACK OF COUNTER SPACE, BANKRUPTCY, AND A SLOWLY PROGRESSING MADNESS" - There is no cure, no 12-step programs, no medication, just this board where we all indulge in our addiction. If you keep this plant, you will either adore your daughter all the more, or end up never allowing her in your home again - You have been warned, so water and car for this plant at your own risk!

SHOULD YOU DECIDE TO PROCEED:

It sounds like you have good lighting, so that is a plus. And Phalae's LOVE to be misted, and appreciate a higher humidity when they can get it. They must have air circulation, as stale or stagnant air will lead to root or crown rot, mold and mildew issues, etc. Also, keep them out of drafts, avoiding temperature changes which can lead to the blooms falling off and the plant declining.

They will not tolerate chlorine, salt or high mineral content in their water, so I purchase Reverse Osmosis-filtered water at my grocery store and use it, always putting a little fertilizer (about 1/8 strength) in the RO water so there is some mineral content for the plant to use; clean rain water can be used also.

Two ways to check when you need to water has been described on the board often. One way is to stick a wooden skewer down among the roots and every few days pull it out; when the stick comes out dry, it is time to drench the root ball well. The crown of the plant shouldn't hold water for long, or else it will rot so I tilt my phalae's over to one side in order to drain any excess water out pf the crown after I water them.

You can also feel the weight of the plant when it is completely dry, then comparing that to it's weight when it is freshly watered. In time you can judge by the weight when it is time to water.

For feedings, a rule of thumb with all orchids is to fertilize "weakly, weekly" - it is easiest to use a fertilizer formulated for orchids, usually available where other plant fertilizers are sold. I Use 1/2 the suggested strength and put it in my sprayer and mist the orchids with it once a week; orchids will absorb nutrients not only through their roots, but also their leaves and stalks so you will want to "feed" the entire plant. If you choose a salt-based fertilizer (the blue or green crystal stuff), you will need to flush the media out every few months to avoid salt build-up.

Once the blooms die you can cut the spike back, leaving a couple of nodes; sometimes additional, blooming branches will emerge. If not, the spike will dry up and can be cut back close to the plant. Always use clean, sterile blades to cut any orchid, as they do catch infections.

Phalae's can stay in the same pot for a couple of years, but when they become root bound, the media starts to rot, or they develop rotted roots, you will need to repot.

If you can see through the inner pot and you see black roots or mold, you will need to repot. Should you choose to repot it, unless it is an emergency, you will want to wait until it has stopped blooming, otherwise all the blooms will fall off.

There are some good videos on you-tube that demonstrate how to repot various orchids, including phalae'. There are also some really good posts here that you can check out, just search for "repotting phalaenopsis" - I am sure someone has already described the process well.

Again, welcome to the Board, I hope some of this helps - and let us know when the Fever starts to kick in!

LOL!!!!

However, do NOT mist this Phal. I had one like this. Killed it by misting it. Most phals cannot tolerate any water on their leaves. I also water them with tap water. They're not as touchy as people seem to think. Even my Phal violacea and bellina, which are pretty touch Phals get tap water and the same fertilizer that I give my hybrids. The real trick with phals is to just set it in a spot where it grows, water it when it dries out completely and otherwise, leave it alone. They thrive on benign neglect in my experience. I get the most blooms and the best growth when I forget about them for a while.

CA2FLxplant · #8 03-19-2015, 09:59 AM

Also, in case it wasn't mentioned, DO NOT let water sit in the crown - that's where the leaves meet at the top. If you do, tip the pot to get it out or sop it up with a paper towel. Water in the crown leads to crown rot....I wouldn't mist it either, because of that.
Beautiful phal! Congratulations...you'll be hooked! I've got several that have been in bloom since October - five months!! They're just starting to fade out.
Good luck!!

Stray59 · #9 03-19-2015, 07:48 PM

RandomGemini:
I have never had any issues whatsoever with misting my phalae's; plus, in every production greenhouse I have been in the plants get sprayed completely when watered, so I do not know what the issue could be, unless the water is remaining long enough to cause rot in the various areas that can hold moisture. I have a fan that blows over all my orchids, so once I mist them, they are dried pretty soon.
And if you are using tap water, you are not living in Indianapolis! The chlorine in our water will knock you down sometimes. I don't trust the tap - I wonder if this is why your plants don't like to be misted? Again, with RO water, I have had no issues with misting. To be sure, I am not any form of phalae' expert, but the large phalae' grower that operates nearby has always advised his customers to mist their plants for added humidity. This is the first time I have heard of not misting them.
I think this just shows that we each have our own methods that work for US - not necessarily for all. Again, variants in the micro-climates that we each have our plants is definitely affects the way we have to treat them.
And CA2FLxplant, you are right - I mentioned this, but it is worth reiterating, as crown rot is pretty prevalent with phalae's if you don't make sure the crown dries out well.
Interesting.......

BTW Faen:
I meant to say - your daughter chose a particularly nice color combo - I really like the fuchsia spots with the gold/yellow throat - really striking. Thanks for sharing!

RandomGemini · #10 03-19-2015, 08:20 PM

You shouldn't wash your laundry with tap water in Indianapolis, let alone water your plants with it. I grew up there. Tap water was nasty.