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  #21  
Old 06-08-2012, 02:08 PM
WhiteRabbit WhiteRabbit is offline
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wait - I'm confused - which direction does the window face ? It does need some light to bloom. An east or west facing window, but while the sun is in that part of the sky
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  #22  
Old 06-08-2012, 02:21 PM
TiffanyP TiffanyP is offline
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The Milt is in the western window on my table but i am guessing I should move it to eastern brighter for rebloom time? My windows are very tinted. The landlord wanted to save on the power here.

My Onc is in a course bark with a fine fur bark and sponge rock mix. Though I just repotted it to that because someone suggested I should move to a smaller pot and it needs better drainage.
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  #23  
Old 06-08-2012, 02:21 PM
Wynn Dee13 Wynn Dee13 is offline
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I don't see any burning. Oncidium alliance orchids seem to be prone to getting brown leaf tips. It somtimes can be a sign of over fertilizing but I wouldn't worry about one brown leaf tip. It also could be from low humidity since these guys have such thin leaves.

The purplish tint in the second photo is from light but isn't a burn. It usually means the plant is getting the highest light it can tolerate. It is kind of like a suntan. With some species you want to aim for a purple pigment because you know it is getting enough light. Plants with dark colored flowers also can have the purple tinting. I don't grow Milts so I don't know if that means the plant would need more light to rebloom. I don't think they are high light plants but the way you described the plant being so far away from the window made me (and Sonya) think it isn't getting enough light in that location to rebloom. But now that you say you move it to a higher light location and it has the purple pigment it might be getting enough light. Once it is done flowering, I would put the plant in one place to grow and not move it around everyday. When a plant is in bloom, you can display it where you want but when it is growing in between blooming you should have it where it gets the right conditions to grow and bloom. I think the plant looks healthy. You are right that plants have imperfections.
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  #24  
Old 06-08-2012, 02:30 PM
TiffanyP TiffanyP is offline
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Wonderful I will surely be putting that Milt in one spot once the flowers fall and just leave it there. This is my first so trial and error is a part of it is suppose as well. Thank you all for your help. I have a window that all my Phals are responding to during their growth phase so perhaps that will suffice for Milt too?
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  #25  
Old 06-08-2012, 02:36 PM
WhiteRabbit WhiteRabbit is offline
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East or west facing window, tho east might be better as it will be a bit cooler, a bright north facing window (if not tinted) might work (I'm not positive for this type, but have bloomed a lower light Onc alliance intergeneric in a bright north window). Hard to know with the tinted windows how it will go (I can certainly understand having tinted windows in a hot climate), but if the window receives a good deal of sun, it may be good. If the Phals are doing well, sounds like probably a good spot for the Miltoniopsis.
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  #26  
Old 06-08-2012, 02:44 PM
TiffanyP TiffanyP is offline
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This makes me glad. The window that my Phals are responding to is actually a south bay window. And they are covered with a curtain. So it does get pretty warm in there but with 10 other plants its gotta be a good level humid. I'll test out highs and lows in there obese what I can do. Thank you all so much.
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  #27  
Old 06-08-2012, 02:49 PM
WhiteRabbit WhiteRabbit is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiffanyP View Post
This makes me glad. The window that my Phals are responding to is actually a south bay window. And they are covered with a curtain. So it does get pretty warm in there but with 10 other plants its gotta be a good level humid. I'll test out highs and lows in there obese what I can do. Thank you all so much.
Just watch that window later in the year as the sun moves south in the sky heading into winter - it will be getting direct sun all day - tho if it's tinted, it might be ok, but just keep on eye on it. I put my high light plants in a south window for winter, and that's not even a bay window.
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  #28  
Old 06-09-2012, 03:20 PM
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james mickelso james mickelso is offline
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The miltoniopsis looks very good. The wrinkling of the back bulbs is normal as they are feeding the new growth. This is the way they are in nature. The foliage will naturally start to yellow and droop. The spotting on the ends of the leaf is some kind of baterial or fungal growth but is of no consequence. They are all like that unless grown by someone with a sterile environment. leaves in nature rarely survive as long as they do in our home environment. The foliage should be light greenish yellow. Yours look just about right. It looks from the pictures that it is potted in bark, coconut hush shreedded, some sponge rock and charcol. the coconut husk is for humidity especially around the roots. Take care you don't keep it soaked as this will create root problems. But they like to be moist or damp. I like your fans. These miltoniopsis like lots of air movement. One way to increase the humidity, without a humidifier which is an iffy proposition at best in the home, is to get some spagnum moss from a craft store or nursery. Wrap it around the pot lossely. A couple of inches thick around the pot should do it. Keep it wet. That will increase the humidity in the immediate area around the pot. Your pebble filled tray is doing the same thing but with moss wound around the outside of the pot it will add to the humidity the tray provides. Miltoniopsis like a part shaded position. Not dark but bright as long as it isn't full sun except in the early morning. Any window with a shear white guazy material hanging in it will be sufficient. Tinted windows don't provide the same kind of protection as most people think. Too darkly tinted and the spectrum will not be correct. It sounds like your west window is good. Hold your hand about 1 foot away from the plant between the window and the plant.The shadow the light casts should be diffused. You should be able to see the outline of your hand but it should be diffused. That should be sufficient light to get then new growth to bloom in about 4-6 months. Once the new growth is as tall as it will get (the same height as the largest current leaves), then switch to a fertilizer higher in the 2nd and thrid numbers. or low N and higher P and K. Feed every 4th watering with this. Miltoniopsis are light feeders unless given optimum conditions whiuch we are hard pressed to provide. Keep us informed as to how the plant is growing. Any changes and let us know immediately. So far it looks like you are growing this plant very well. The most important thing to remember is not to over water it. Only water when the pot gets lighter or if you have a wooden skewer in it, water when it becomes just barely damp. Good luck.
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  #29  
Old 06-09-2012, 04:32 PM
TiffanyP TiffanyP is offline
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Thank you all so much for this info. I am so glad I have these to revert back to when I have questions. Hopefully ny 2 fav Oncidiums will Do as well as the others. I thank u all so much! I will absolutely keep you all posted.
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  #30  
Old 06-09-2012, 04:33 PM
TiffanyP TiffanyP is offline
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Actually one more thing.....this Milt is very wobbley....should I firm it up after the blooms fall? She is about a week away from sleepy time.
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