Minimal buds on phals

[NYCorchidman]

That is common sense. Of course no matter what you do to your plants that are in poor condition, you can't expect them to perform well as far as flowering is concerned.

It was assumed that the plant has been growing normally. Higher light is one of the most important factor in bringing out the best flowering. It is just true and I didn't imply it is the only thing plants need in order for them to bloom.

With age, (again given that the plants are in decent condition) orchids tend to flower better, which is shown in your example.

[quiltergal]

My plant wasn't in poor condition before, just in need of a repot.

I think we will just have to agree to disagree on this one.

[NYCorchidman]

"You can throw all the light you want at a weak unhealthy plant and it will not increase the flower count..."

I was just responding to this sentence. sorry didn't mean your plant was in poor condition. just meant "your" as in general meaning.

All good

[quiltergal]

I found this bit on Taisuco's website.

Forcing Flower:64 oF night temperature and 77 °F day temperature are ideal temperature settings for forcing flower of most Phalaenopsis varieties. Uniform spike initiation can be expected in 4-6 weeks, and plants will be ready for sale in another 3 months with one to two flowers open. Time required may vary, depending on variety and plant conditions.
After spike initiation, the time needed to the first flower open can be manipulated, either push it by increase the temperature or slow it down by low the temperature, depending on when market need it. Increasing the temperature will run a risk of getting fewer bud counts and definitely high energy cost. Low the temperature might run a risk of bud drop caused by the cold.
Light is also an important factor in forcing flower process. Higher light intensity will give better flowering quality, only if the light does not reach the level of burning the leaves or increasing the temperature in the greenhouse too much.

[upnorthorchids]

What great info, everyone. I was interested in the effects of temperature on phal spikes. That's good to know, and may also be why I don't see the higher bud count.

I'm off to the repotting forum now to see where the good sources for repotting medium are!

[Cattleya17]

I too have heard about the temperature control spiking method. On Norman's orchids Facebook page he posted some pictures from a greenhouse in Taiwan and asked his followers why were the phals in the picture not spiking even though it was the middle of January. He answered later after some guessing, saying it was because of the temp. They were keeping the greenhouse warmer until the appointed time for the markets. It was really cool. He then explained about the temp they would use for a few weeks I think it was mid to high 60's.

Light adequate consistent watering habits and fertilizer are all needed to get the best flowering. I,personally, have not had success with my phals flowering as I wanted until I switched to S/H. I have a schilleriana. Which granted already have extremely tall spikes and many flowers, but anyways the one blooming now has two branches and 14 flowers. S/H I feel allowed me to get the moisture that was needed for the plant during the blooming process just right the key to orchid growing I feel is making sure the roots are happy if you get that right the whole plant will thrive. You may wanna give Semi-hydro a whirl see if you like it I really think it helps. I hope this post helps you in your endeavor for that fabulous spike we all love. Remember there is always next year ; )