Phal need East facing windows?

[quiltergal]

Hey Jennie, I'm just down the road aways from you. DH and I did a north coast trip in Sept. What city do you live in? I'm in Jacksonville, and Ross used to live in Grants Pass. There are a couple of fine orchid growers on the coast. Logsdens in Coos Bay, and JC Tropicals (don't recall what city they're in). The coast is a great place to grow orchids. Your relative humidity is much better than it is inland. You could probably grow cymbidiums outside year round.

Anyway, back to the business at hand. When was the last time you repotted this plant? Fir bark is only good for a couple of years and then it starts decomposing down inside the pot. When it does that it retains too much water and rots the roots. If you haven't repotted since you first got it, then that would be my first recommendation. It's not the ideal time of year, but sometimes you just have to do it. Repotting now will accomplish two things. You will be able to determine the health of the root system, and give it nice fresh potting medium. Be sure to soak the medium for at least 24 hours, changing the water a couple of times during that period. I would also recommend clear plastic pots. That allows you to see the roots down inside the pot and gives you a much better idea of when it's time to water again. As you're repotting clean the roots and cut off any that are black and mushy. If they are dark but firm leave them on. My Phals get watered and fed once a week. I flush the pot well, and then follow with fert water. You can easily find a good orchid fertilizer at most nurserys or hydroponics stores. One that is fairly easy to find locally is DynaGro Grow formula. Look for the urea free formula. It can also be ordered online. If you do order online I would recommend GreenCare MSU formula. I have used both and got better results with MSU.

As for lighting, yes a grow light will definitely help. Be advised though, they are VERY bright, so you may want to locate your orchid growing area to a spare bedroom. Ross is the light man. I'm sure he can recommend something specific.

[ottercottage]

Hi, Jennie, possibly the orchid has been overwatered in the past - that is why the leaf in bottom photo might appear a little wrinkly? Also, if the roots were mushy might be a sign. I would mostly keep phal out of the outer decorative pot and maybe set it instead in one of those plastic pot holders you can get anywhere for under a dollar. Or, on a humidity tray. Also, it's hard to see the exact size of your plant or know the extent of its root mass, but possibly pot down if necessary? I live probably not too far from you in Long Beach, WA and I grow my phals in both the south and east windows, also grow under lights. I water a couple of times a week. I don't mist my orchids. My humidity may be close to yours in winter, around 40%. Because central heating drops the humidity, I have a couple of water fountains in my house and a warm mist humidifier. If you are afraid you'll overwater, add just a little bit of chopped sphagnum to the bark. mix. You'll get the hang of it!

[Ross]

Originally Posted by quiltergal

As for lighting, yes a grow light will definitely help. Be advised though, they are VERY bright, so you may want to locate your orchid growing area to a spare bedroom. Ross is the light man. I'm sure he can recommend something specific.

As I stated earlier in the post, mine are in a bright south window (well "bright" is a relative word, isn't it?) with CF T5 bulbs strategically placed to provide supplemental lighting.

The bulbs you get at Home Depot or Menards or Lowes are not nearly bright enough. You don't need really big hot lights either. I use 54 watt and 105 watt (that's consumption - not light output) in my growing area. I've found that at our latitude and especially with the climate and gray days you get in winter, that supplemental lighting is a must. Try this site for a good choice of bulbs 105 Watt Compact Fluorescent

Here's a picture of my setup for comparison

I now have a 2-tube 24" t5 high output fixture to the right where the bottom shelf is in this picture.

A comment on the potting: I'm a real big fan of clear plastic pots, especially for beginners or for those not quite sure about their watering skills. I find the 3 times a week, 2 times a week, etc. instructions too vague. I just look at the pot and check out the roots and the condition of the bark. Mine tend to get pretty root-bound with big fat white roots. When I water by soaking the pot (watering in the sink should be fine as long as you don't have a water softener) the roots will all turn green. I just wait until they turn white again before watering. In the humidity of summer that might be once a week or longer. Now with the dry air and the floor vents for the furnace, I am watering every other day just to keep up. I can't imagine trying to guess with a green plastic or clay pot.

You are shooting for really light green leaves. They actualy may tinge to purple along the edges. This level of light will normally lead to the best spikes. I grow mine right in with the high light genera like Cats, Encyclia, etc.

Hope this helps

[flhiker]

Hey Jen, Sorry for the short answers last night (I had to many distractions). Anyway after looking at your photos closely I still think it is a lack of water. The bark mix looks fresh and Dry. When my phals. need water for to long of a time the roots and lower leaves start to shrivel up. And look exactly like your look now. As for the green thing at the end of the spike, it is another spike forming but appears to have died. I would cut all the spikes to about 1 inch and step up the watering. Fertilize with 1/4 strenght MSU fertilizer. The reason for cutting the spike is to allow the plant to recover and it will reward you next blooming cycle with beautiful flowers. As far as lighting goes for you snow birds, Ross has got you covered. Good luck.

[mehitabel]

I don't have east windows, but I grow phals in both south and west windows, with supplemental light in winter. There's a period of time in late spring when the sunlight gets a little hot in those exposures, but it comes on gradually, so they have time to toughen up and adapt to it. Usually a fan run during the hottest time of day takes care of things.

I'd recommend you read all you can about phals from specialists' websites. Big Leaf Orchids, Bedford Orchids and Robert Beddard Nurseries offer excellent culture notes you can print and study at leisure. Each has a slightly different take, so you'll learn a lot from doing this. Big Leaf's notes are written especially for new, indoor growers.

My own experience has been that I learned slowly, a little more, then a little more than that, etc etc. Each summer and winter I solved some problems that came up and encountered some more. But I finally did run out of problems, so it can be done

Keep at it is my advice.

[Jennie]

LOL... OK, you guys! My brain is full. May I leave the room?

I have my studying to do, for sure.

Thank you so much! You guys are so great!

Hmmm where do I start?

I have my plate full tonight, but tomorrow with coffee, I'm going to try to digest more of all of this.

Wow. I have a new hobby!

[flyfishdoc]

It looks to me like you have a combination problem. The leaves are wrinkled and dark green. The plant needs to be watered more often, either daily or every other day for a while. You will need to make sure you have good drainage, especially since you had some spongy roots. The plant also needs stronger sun, so I would move it to a brighter place. My plant that was in the same condition did not seem to firm up until it got better light.
There is controversy here about the spikes you have. I would suggest you cut them off and let the plant get stronger. It should then send up new spikes. The current ones may be a drain on your plant now. Cut them off as low as you can.

As for pictures, when you want to add one, scroll down to manage attachments, and the box will pop up and should be self explanatory

[Jennie]

I love it! The flyfishdoc!
You guys-- I have been praising your advice, ever since I took it! I may not have been here, but I've been trying to get back here because I think of you every morning and every evening when I adore my plant's relative health!
I took your advice, cut back the stems and now!!! NOWW!!!! You guys! I have a new flower spike and three new little green things coming off of the other older spikes!!!

I'm just thrilled! At the same time, I'm scared! Scared that like last time, the flower spike will get all gooey with that sugary stuff and it will rot, there. That's what it has always done before. I'm thinking of putting cinnamon on it?

Here is what I did to save my Phal.

I dumped out the old bark I used sterilized scissors and cut out all the rotten roots. (There were many!) I put it in a slightly larger pot, and put in the new, smaller bark designed for phals.
I sprinkled cinnamon on the roots, and on any part that may get fungus, due to being open to the air.
I bought some good orchid fertilizer and began watering it more often.
As far as the light, it's just getting the same light. I still want to buy some bulbs, but I can't believe the progress I've had.
I cut the older spikes down to about 5 inches. I should have cut it more, and I still may. Seeing is believing! Just the little that I cut it has helped SO much!

I'll take a picture!

My leaves are all splitting, still and I bought a new Phal and it's leaves are splitting, too!

I read that this might be caused by getting too dry and then overwatering, so that the leaves expand and don't know how to use all that water.

Argh. I just can't get it totally right, but I'm doing better! Oh, so much better!

Jen

[Jennie]

There ya go!

[Jennie]

You can see how the old roots are getting little green bumps on them? What will they be? I think it's growing off the roots, anyhow?

And then the new spike, and then another new spike under the leaves.

The new leaves that I'm growing (two of them!) are really pretty green and healthy, but kind of curled up?

Anyhow, new diagnosis, you guys? Am I doing better? I think so, but I'll wait for you to tell me!