Phalaenopsis "Secrets" including (re)blooming.

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These are not secrets if you already know them. The Phalaenopsis orchid originates among the the islands of the Phillipines. They are prompted to bloom by the natural cycles of the seasonal monsoons. We can simulate the effects of these monsoons. It is easiest do this in the spring and fall when we have night time low temps about 45 to 50 degrees and daytime temp is less than 70 (A daytime temp above 80 inhibits flowers.). What we actually need is a 15 to 20 degree drop from day to night. To simulate the effect of the rains we use a drench (1 teaspoon of epsom salt per gallon water). Pour enough to fill the pot so that it runs out the bottom for a couple of seconds. Do this once and then again one week later. The solution will leach almost all nutrients from the roots and growing media (bark mix). The heavy rains in the Phillipines have the same effect. After the rains come cool winds for about a month. So one week later, we place them where the temp can fluctuate by 15 to 20 degrees. Be careful not to let the phals be exposed to temperatures less than 45. (At 32 degrees they freeze and all you will have left is a green gel and some roots.) After 21 consecutive days of these cool nights, every phal will send up flower 'spikes' (inflorescences).
To ensure healthy size and many flowers, fertilize your orchids regularly during the summer. If it is a balanced general fertilizer with 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 compostion, use 1/4 of the recommended rate (if 1 teaspoon is called for per gallon water, cut it to 1/4 tsp). The old adage fertilize 'weakly... weekly' is great. If the fertilizer was made specifically for orchids do follow the label directions. Most orchids in a typical home need water about once a week.
Please be aware that the number one reason orchids die is due to over watering. If left constantly wet, both the bark mix and the roots will rot. By the time the leaves show signs, it may be too late to save the roots or the orchid. I suggest that you use what I refer to as a "water-o-meter". This is simply a wooden BBQ skewer or old pencil that is pushed deep in the potting material. Leave it there. When you think the orchid needs water, pull it out. I place it on my cheek. If it is cool and wet, just don’t water yet. Wait until it is slightly damp and beginning to dry out. However a phal has no water storage pseudobulb like other orchids. If the stick becomes bone dry the orchid has already started to pull upon the small amount of water in the leaves. After 3 days of being completely dry, the affect may be severe and the phal may later expire. In a typical home it takes an orchid about two weeks to reach that point.
Small or young orchids are often sold planted in sphagnum moss. When the phal has 3 pairs of leaves or is in a 4 inch pot consider switching to a regular bark mix or semi hydro ceramic pellets. Semi hydro can be covered separately. The organic sphagnum and the bark mix decompose after 6 months to a year. With it goes the roots! Therefore the condition inside the pot must be monitored or simply replaced on a yearly basis. The bark may become spongy to the touch or breaks up. If so, replace it.

*A summer growing season is essential to great and plentiful blooms. The flower spike (inflorescence) is clipped back to one node above where it emerged. That node is a natural barrier to stop infection. Temperatures above 80 degrees inhibit flower spikes. So growers maintain phals at*a target of 83 degrees. The summer is spent growing big thick medium green leaves and a healthy root system. With all of this stored up energy, they are just waiting for that monsoon.
Orchids R Easy!
Hello my name is Lee
and I'm an Orchid Addict...

p.s. Due to the economy, I must take down my 1000 sq. ft. greenhoouse. The GH and most of it's orchids are for sale at Home Page Consider giving one of my favorites a new home.