DPTS problem

[early]

I have not figured out how to go from camera or phone to computer to OB photos, but willd soon. I have several mini dpts and one large one. The last one has firm dark green leaves, but even when I bought her, they had ridges, and bottom leaf curls horizonally downward and the top two leaves are slightly limp, I have kept her watered, transferred when new to S/H and when checked last had no root rot, She has not changed much since I got her, and at present, I am just watering weekly weakly and with no additive when I water in-between. Anyone have experience with "Big Red" dpts? I am playing the wait and see game with this one.

[Dollythehun]

Bump

[Roberta]

Moved this thread to Phalaenopsis-hybrids. With the correct category, may attract more visitors

[aliceinwl]

Are the leaf ridges and curling occurring on new growth it has put out in your care? Any defects in older leaves are there to stay and likely reflective of past conditions.

[early]

Alice, it came to me that way. I have had it a few months, and it has maintained good roots, no rot, has not put out any new leaves nor air roots. I am fairly new to orchids. Should I let it dry out a bit and put it in a cooler room for a couple of months, or leave it with my other plants that are all but one doing well.

[fishmom]

Phals do not want a cool, dry rest. You just recently transferred the plant into S/H, and the plant take time to recover and put out new roots to adjust to the new situation. Put the phal in a nice warm, not-to-bright location, give it the best culture you can, and be patient.



A bit of Kelp fertilizer might help to spur new root growth. Keep water in the reservoir and flush regularly to prevent salt build-up .

[early]

from fishmom
Phals do not want a cool, dry rest. You just recently transferred the plant into S/H, and the plant take time to recover and put out new roots to adjust to the new situation. Put the phal in a nice warm, not-to-bright location, give it the best culture you can, and be patient.

A bit of Kelp fertilizer might help to spur new root growth. Keep water in the reservoir and flush regularly to prevent salt build-up .
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Thanks for
great info. I have her with all my other non bloomers, warm in day, but some bright filtered sunlight all day, cooler at night and dark.
I have kelp max but only used it a couple of months ago. I will give it another dose. is it 1 Tbs per gallon?[COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added at 02:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:43 PM ----------

For Roberta
I went to your link and love it. I will keep going back because it is great info.

[fishmom]

Regarding Kelp-Max, it looks like the directions for a "drench" (thorough watering) are 2 tsp to 1 oz per gallon. Two tsp. equals 1/3 of an ounce of liquid. I believe Ray recommends using Kelp-max at monthly intervals.


Ideally, phals would prefer temperatures at 70 degrees or over, 24/7. I don't maintain that in my own home, but I don't put them in front of an open window in the winter, either. Do the best you can, and as the days get longer and warmer you will likely see some growth. The condition of the new leaves will tell you if the plant is making a good adjustment to its new home.

[Roberta]

Originally Posted by early

For Roberta
I went to your link and love it. I will keep going back because it is great info.

Glad you enjoyed!

[aliceinwl]

I second Fishmom’s advice. Keep it as warm as you can. Maybe consider getting a seedling heat mat. I don’t think Phalaenopsis tend to do well in semihydro unless they’re kept warm. The old leaves will likely stay as they are. Sometimes floppy leaves will firm up a bit with improved root health but that’s the most you can expect. New growth will be reflective of how happy it is under your conditions so hopefully new leaves will be smooth and firm.