Anyone used these LED lights?

[Nexogen]

I have built a light as shown in the graph below (I hope simulation software that I use is good). Knowing how much I can affect plants I set the dimmer to 80% after two days all the plants began to be colored red. After that I set at (50-60)% dimmer and plants are doing well.
In this terrarium I grow only laelia and cattleya 14h ON/ 10h OFF

[Nexogen]

xy chromaticity diagram

[Jacob Reitsma]

Originally Posted by naoki

1x HLG-120H-C1050A or B (A or B are different dimmer option) + 4x Generation5 CLU048-1212C4-353M2K1 (Generation 5, 3500K, CRI80, .

Hi Naoki, thanks, this is the setup I am planning to build but I have one more question about colour temperature and cri. When I use 90cri instead of 80cri I only have a 5-10% light loss but I would have a better colour accuracy right? And would you advise me 3500k or 4000k or maybe the difference is very small and it doesn't matter that much for orchids?

I also read your blog and I am very much impressed by the beautiful orchids you grow!

[naoki]

Estacion, I think you did good job simplifying it, and simplifications are good thing! But it would be better if simplification is done without scarifying the accuracy. Stating that Green light is useless for plant is a major misunderstanding which shouldn't be spread. To be honest, even though I'm a plant biologist, I had this misunderstanding until OB forum members (David Campen and/or maybe Ray) pointed this out. I really appreciated that correction.

Lamda, I think there are a couple people who uses bluer light designed for coral. I'm sure it will work. For 18" cube, that light you got seems to be way too much, so be careful. For that much of space, I think 18W class household Flood light (PAR38) or Ray's white and red LEDs is enough for lower light orchids.

Thank you, Jacob. I think you can go either 3500K or 4000K, and CRI of 90 is pretty ok. Once you go to CRI97, there might be a bit of penalty (I didn't calculate it and the document didn't contain CRI97, so this is my guess based on calculation in other brand). 3500K CRI90 gives 1.96 micro mol/J (I added this to the previous post). As I mentioned earlier, there aren't strong data about how different spectra influence orchid shapes/physiology. So I can't say which K is better.

Higher CRI will be better if you are taking photography. With lower CRI LEDs, even after color correction in post-processing, you end up with a bit duller color (especially in green region).

[Nexogen]

Naoki however, I can't understand why there are so many studies about the action of light on plant growth.
I tried to copy the spectrum of light that I liked how the plant operates. The truth is that I used too much red (on portions of the lighted space are different amounts of color, the graph is overall - I used different COB depending on the type of plant lighting) still want to put some surprising results. I have a sophronitis cernua a laelia pumila who have once flourished this year and look how it looks today.

[Nexogen]

I think I got it; Photons within the photosynthetic waveband (400 to 700 nm) are essentially equally capable of driving photosynthesis, and therefore plant growth.
Light intensity has a much larger effect on plant growth than light spectrum.
Thank you

[Dollythehun]

I'd like some simple supplemental light...so I let my electrical engineering hubby read these posts. He said "go to Walmart."
What do you all suggest for my request? I thought one of Ray's paddle shaped led lights would be perfect, but he is out of them.

I could afix something like T5s to the shelf or use a flood but I want to keep it simple.

Suggestions?