Show Your Light Set Up ( Please see details)

[derv88]

I just barely get the output required for Phals via T5H0. I barely get 1500-1800 fcs from 4x4 ballasts, even supplementing with LED and others. Yes I am changing my bulbs.

I am 100% reliant on artificial light since my orchids are in a cellar in my basement with no windows.

[katrina]

Originally Posted by derv88

I just barely get the output required for Phals via T5H0. I barely get 1500-1800 fcs from 4x4 ballasts, even supplementing with LED and others. Yes I am changing my bulbs.

I am 100% reliant on artificial light since my orchids are in a cellar in my basement with no windows.

Sounds like your bulbs are too old and/or you don't have HO level intensity. Are they the blue or red? My 4x4's give me over 3000fcs at the bulb...less the farther away I get from the bulbs, naturally. I grow phals under the 2' 22 watt HOT5s but I would be worried about burn under the 54 watts.

With all of that said...those bulbs being used for 12+hrs per day should still be sufficient for many medium light plants...even some of the lower light catts. They might not be enough for some of the very high light plants but many others should bloom under those if you're running them long enough. And, if the spectrum is correct for plants. Not all "grow bulbs" are actually "grow bulbs". You want a full spectrum or between 5000K and 6500K for best results. The cumulative effect of the bulbs being used over a period of time makes up for the less than adequate fcs.

[derv88]

Yea, I get it. I did buy bulbs that were recommended by someone on this site who was far more educated on the science of artificial lights so I don't think that's the issue. I do get around 3k FCs at the bulbs too, but when you adjust and remeasure for distance at the plant or even at the leaf, the FC readings are significantly less, barely cracking 2k on my Catt shelf which, judging by the plants, is just barely enough to get them to bloom. The Phal shelf, where T5HOs that dont have reflectors reads much less around 1500FC if I'm lucky.

Even my phals all are a very dark green, sometimes purple. If I buy a new plant at the greenhouse and take it home, it's stunning how bright green they are in contrast to my near army-green plants on the shelf that have been there for years.

They all survive though, and just about all of them bloom. I can just tell that they aren't receiving ideal light amounts by looking at the plants. I have all other ecosystem factors in check - humidity, heat, fertilizer, hydration. I even test my water occasionally. So everything points back to the light quantities.

[Ray]

Be careful to not over-illuminate your plants.

For example, It is often documented that phalaenopsis should receive no more than 1500 foot candles. What is often NOT stated is that 1500 fc is the peak light level the plant should see at noon, and not what it should get for 12-14 hours continuously.

If you estimate the dawn-to-dusk intensity of sunlight as a triangle, the area under the curve is a roughly 1/2 X the peak intensity X the hours, so in order to match the "mass of photons" reaching the plant, your continuous light intensity should be roughly 50% of the peak recommendation.

[estación seca]

Katrina, you didn't mention the amperage rating on your circuit breakers on those electrical circuits. Most homes wouldn't be able to have that many lights on 1 or even 2 electrical circuits.

[katrina]

Originally Posted by estación seca

Katrina, you didn't mention the amperage rating on your circuit breakers on those electrical circuits. Most homes wouldn't be able to have that many lights on 1 or even 2 electrical circuits.

I don't know or even understand all that electrical stuff but my neighbor is an electrician and he checked everything out and said I'm good. The lights aren't all on the same circuit so I guess that's why I don't have any trouble. Like I said...I don't get but he does so I know I'm ok.

At one point we did discuss the idea of running a separate box for the lights but the we would have to run new wiring and install sockets and everything and thinking about resale on the house...i dont believe that would be a good move. The next owners might actually want to use the space as it was intended.

We added a 2nd box for my husband's workshop so its always possible...just dont think i want to mess with it in the house.

[estación seca]

For others thinking of doing an electrical setup, first find out the amperage of the circuit breaker(s) that feed(s) the sockets you intend to use. Each fixture states somewhere how many amps it draws. Total those, and be sure this total amperage of your light fixtures does not exceed the maximum amperage rating of the circuit breaker(s). If you exceed the rating, the circuit breaker is supposed to trip, cutting off power to that circuit. If it doesn't trip your wires may overheat and cause a fire.

[derv88]

Thanks Ray, I do go back and forth on if it's too much or too little light. I read something from you, maybe in another thread, talking about light meters and the fact that the popular inexpensive meters are made for photography and the readings are unstable when you're continually adjusting for distance from plant to light, plant to light, and on.

The dark green leaf color is what is making me suspect too little light. I have a standard 6' x 4' wire rack with two light shelves - top shelf lit by 4 separate 48' t5h0's with attached reflectors, bottom shelf lit by 4 separate older t5h0's without reflectors (phal shelf). Recently added another rack @ 90 degree angle which has my 600w hps/mh setup, dialed down to 50%. Only warm growers under it, dens and a catasetum.

I really would like one of those expensive meters you mentioned that are more accurate for our application, but I also like being married. I am trying my best at having to use qualitative feedback when I really need quantitative feedback until I gain more experience with this hobby that is turning into a study.

The light meter jumps off the chart in the 5 digit range 4" under the hps light, so I have my dens right at the the outside edges of the light projection boundaries where my best measurements are coming in around 2500fcs to 3000fcs, which from what I'm reading on culture sheets, is in their light range.

I really don't know what I am doing though, and I'm totally fine admitting that. There is a lot to learn.

[Ray]

Distance from the lamps is your controlling factor. A 48" T5 on a 4' X 6' should can give you a high light zone in the middle, directly under the lamp, and low light toward the perimeter.

It wasn't me making the lite meter comments, but even without one there are alternatives.

Do you own a camera with manually adjustable aperture and exposure settings? If so, you can use that to measure the light level (check the free info at firstrays.com).

[Nexogen]

I think before you buy a specific product, you need to study a little what and how.
Perhaps use dedicated light for human consumption does not meet the needs of the plant.