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12-24-2014, 07:31 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2012
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I built a simular setup for under cabinet lights. I used a roll of 505 leds from China, at first I just stuck them to the cabnet but they didnt stay. Then I used contact cement, that didnt hold either, next I bought a 1" x 1/8" aluminum strip and cut several lengths for the strips and just stuck some new leds to them. They have now been there for about 8 monyhs and still stuck. Im only using a 110v to 12v transformor from ebay. Its not constant current or voltage, just a standard 110 to 12v. Although to me it looks like they are getting dimmer over time. Maybe its just me.
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03-10-2015, 03:58 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Phoenix,AZ
Posts: 73
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Naoki and LarrylWill...
By any chance can you give me some guidance on how I can set these up? I just got these from ebay but I don't have any experience building any electrical set up. Not sure how to figure out how many I can string up in series or parallel, Or if I need to add additional load to make sure things don't go kaboom.
I kind of don't want to set my home ablaze. I am trying to build a set up that incorporates these for lights as well as 2 computer fans.
I got 3 of these 12V 48-5050 SMD LED panels and 10 of these 12V 24-5050 SMD LED Panels for my orchid lighting. Problem is I'm don't know how to set them up without over loading, causing a short, or explode my house. T10 Car Interior Pure White 48 5050 SMD LED Light Lampdome Panel | eBay
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03-10-2015, 07:37 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Zone: 2a
Location: Fairbanks, AK
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I'm "guessing" that you need 12V constant voltage driver. Then you can connect all of the panels parallelly. So for each panel, the red wire is connected to + output of the driver, and the black wire is connected to - output of the driver. I don't think you need to add additional load (resistors) because they are designed for 12V from car batteries.
I'm not sure how much current each panel consumes. But you can add it up, and then you want to make sure that the total is less than the max. current of the constant voltage driver. Note that a lot of power supply has low efficiency when the actual draw of the current is too low (compared to its maximum current).
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03-10-2015, 07:44 PM
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Thank you Naoki! That's what I thought but I was a little hesitant to just rely on my own ideas.
Let's just say I've had some very creative uhmmm projects since I was very young that gave me a healthy respect for electricity.
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03-10-2015, 10:58 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2012
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You can buy the driver from the same place you bought the Leds. It looks like each panel of 48 will drawl approx 325 ma and put out approx 10W of light. The 24 led panels will be approx 1/2 so your looking at a total current draw of 3x325ma or approx 1 amp @ 12v amd 30W of light.
The other panels approx 160ma x 10 = 1.6amps and 50W of light. Any 12v dc power pack that puts out 3-4 amps will light them. Its not necessary to use a constant voltage one. Leds will work with a few volts variation.
BTW the sticky back wont stick good. I used some strips for under the counter, I glued them with epoxy onto an aluminum stock 1/8 x 2" from HD, they do get very warm. I used 15 leds per strip light. I tried sticking the first but it only lasted a feew weeks, then I tried contact cement which lasted a few months, the epoxy is about 6 months and holding.
This is info for a strip:
Input/Output: 12V
Output Power: 0.2w/led ; 60w/300leds;
Working Current/5Meter: 5A
Adhesive backing tape for secure and easy application to most surfaces
Output: three CMOS drain-open output
Working Temperature: -20°C-60°C
Superbright 5050 SMD top LED, high intensity and reliability.
Long life span 50,000+ hours
Cuttable every 3 LEDs along the cutting marks, according to pratical requirement.
Flexible ribbon for curving around bends
Low power consumption
Last edited by larrylwill; 03-10-2015 at 11:07 PM..
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03-10-2015, 11:06 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Phoenix,AZ
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Thank you Soo much.
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11-03-2015, 04:28 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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Location: Fairbanks, AK
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I made a blog post about how to make Chip-on-board (COB) based LED fixtures ( here is the link). The basic contents are similar to what I posted earlier in this thread. I included a little bit more assembly details (maybe too much for most people), information about driver selection, and new measurement data using PPFD. Also I came across a couple of useful youtube videos, so the links are provided at the very end of the post. I started this thread with cheap eBay COB, but the video provides the reason why these are not worth getting.
There are newer generations of COB LEDs (Bridgelux Vero Version 2.0 and Cree CXB series) after I posted the messages in this thread. Some people are achieving close to 70% radiant efficiency with Cree CXB3590 (only 30% of electricity is wasted as heat, and 70% is converted to light energy). Don't be left out from the advance in a "cheaper" way to grow orchids under artificial light!
Last edited by naoki; 11-03-2015 at 05:05 AM..
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11-03-2015, 05:02 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2012
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The link is bad.
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11-03-2015, 05:06 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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Thanks, I fixed the link.
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