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12-28-2012, 05:58 PM
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Jr. Member
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 21
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Orchidarium first-timer! Please help me pick the right lighting!!!
Hey guys! I am in need of some advice to light the Orchid box that my boyfriend made me for Christmas! (I've got a keeper) The box is made out of glass and has the measurements of 20"l x 20"w x30"h. It has sliding glass doors and a two inch opening at the top back of the box.
Right now I will just be using this for growing Phals in my house since they don't really like the temp and humidity in our house. I am a little confused on how to start my setup so I figured I'd start with lighting. From what I've read, the fluorescent fixtures seem to be the most popular. T5 or T8 seems to be the best option with a mix of 3000k and 6400k.
Will all the bulbs be labelled this way or do I have something else I should look for when buying these? Also, if I get a 2' fixture will 2 bulbs be enough for my dimensions? Also would it be an issue if I don't hang this above the case and just lay it on top? I don't have a lot of room in my dining room to suspend any lights...
If I decide to go with this is there a preferred place to buy these or will a place like Lowes carry these?
I saw this place but if I could buy it locally then that would be great...
HTML Code:
http://www.htgsupply.com/Product-GrowBright-2-Foot-2-Lamp-High-Output-T5-With-Choice-of-Bulbs.asp#
Thanks so much!
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12-28-2012, 06:08 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 3,806
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He's a keeper for sure!!! Congrats!!!
I've not heard of the lower k bulbs being needed, only that 6500k most closely matches the spectrum orchids need to survive. Lowes carries them, they are called Daylight Bulbs, but be sure to look for those that are really close to 6500k. Perhaps someone else can address the need for the lower k though as that's really something I've heard of before.
You can just sit it on top if you'd like, but be wary that the lights produce heat and that heat can build up in a terrarium setting. Also, if its humid in there then that humidity may start to build and cause issues. You might want to get to of the light stands from PetSmart for hanging single bulbs and modify the hanging structure for your setting, if size permits. They are made be Exo-Terra I believe and have a flat bottom that slides under your terrarium for support.
Have you considered air flow? You might want to get a computer fan set up in there as well.
Just remember that all components should be plugged into a grounded outlet that had the automatic kick off safety feature. I'd hate for humidity or moisture to potentially build up and zap you, electrically speaking. If course, I'm not quite sure the set up you're working on either though.
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12-28-2012, 06:11 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 3,806
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Oh, sorry... Not sure about how many bulbs. If your at Lowes and see how the bulbs are spread out, I'd say go for two if they appear to cover the area. Test and try. You can always return if it doesn't work for you. Just remember to buy one with a reflector to direct the light down on the sides so light isn't wasted. Also remember that the further down light goes away from the source, the less intense it becomes.
You might also want to consider a timer! They are your friend, lol...
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12-29-2012, 01:04 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Zone: 2a
Location: Fairbanks, AK
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Miadunn, I think PaulMc gave you most of the answers. 2 bulbs should be enough if you put the plants on top of some platform (maybe your boyfriend can make it). I'm assuming that you are talking about T5HO and not T5 normal output. Since the height is 30", if you put the plants on the bottom, the plants won't get enough light. Around 1 foot from a 4-bulb unit, you get around 600fc, which should be enough for phals if you use it 15 hours or so. But if you can adjust the height of each plants (about 6" between the bulbs and the top of the leaves), 2-bulb unit should be enough. Also, if you put aluminum foil or white papers to the back and side of the enclosure, plants will get more light for a given cost of electricity.
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12-29-2012, 05:12 AM
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Jr. Member
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 2
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About Perfect Orchid Lighting
Closed glass spaces as your newly added needs good ventilation therefore consider placing couple sidefans on timers aswell...computer fans will do the trick.
To my knowledge and experience for thriwing orchids in hole aspect the fact you should always keep in mind is described at URL: --> reflekta.com --> products --> tubes --> tubes T5 (change language back to slovenian if the english doesnt apply the page)
My setup 4x4.2foot (128cm) 54W lamps:
- Bio flora - 2 lamps
- nature superb - 2 lamps
When it comes to lighting most important are reflectors, since they reflect 70% of the light produced by lights, light themselves without reflectors will give you only 30% of light on the orchids...therefore lights with no reflectors are total energy loss
For the hole lighting spectrum covered and orchid clorofile food production needs the lights are on timers changing lighting simultaneously 2 lamps at a time (5+5h/day)
I would definetly go for T5 (all orchid pecies), since you re with Phalaenopsis, wich are very light undemanding, depending on species used, some demand more exposure than others. As described on one of theese forums they can change leaf colour to pink, wich is a sign of too much light exposure, immediately change orchid position to more suitable.
I notice people describing exact heights for positioning the lamps, well...you can never say precisely in advance since you dont actualy see orchids in action, so you will have to experiment. When you bring an orchid home it is used to its current conditions, therefore the conditions in your home can varry so pay attention first few weeks in new habitat
Last edited by M1R3S; 12-29-2012 at 05:32 AM..
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12-29-2012, 08:59 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oak Island NC
Posts: 15,205
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As your enclosure is 20" wide, the two-foot fixtures are going to hang out over the sides, which I would find irritating.
I'll acknowledge that this is self-serving, as I sell them, but have to considered LEDs? The ones I carry are designed specifically for plants, put out as much light as a two-foot T5, fit in standard incandescent fixtures, and are only about 9" long in the fixture. They generate a lot less heat than a fluorescent bulb, and are supposed to last about ten years or so, versus the recommended replacement cycle of one year for a T5.
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12-29-2012, 04:06 PM
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Jr. Member
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 21
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Ok, here it goes again. I spent an hour posting a reply and then at the last minute my ipad logged me out.
First off, thank you everyone for your quick responses and helpful suggestions.
Paul Mc- It sounds like a timer is a must so i'll add that to my list! As for the question I posed about the 6400k and the 3000k bulbs I had read that one was meant for flowering and the other to induce plant growth. There is so much information on this forum that I might be mistaken but maybe someone else can chime in?
Naoki- I had wondered if my enclosure would be too deep for the light to penetrate. My first thought is to use PVC pipe cut at equal lengths to prop up the egg crate that so many people us on here to sit their Orchids on. Probably will take some testing. As for the light bulbs, do the T5 HO bulbs require a special HO fixture or can you just put those bulbs in a regular T5 fixture or vice versa...
Quote:
Originally Posted by M1R3S
My setup 4x4.2foot (128cm) 54W lamps:
- Bio flora - 2 lamps
- nature superb - 2 lamps
For the hole lighting spectrum covered and orchid clorofile food production needs the lights are on timers changing lighting simultaneously 2 lamps at a time (5+5h/day)
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M1R3S- Thanks for the website! I will definitely aim for good reflectors and maybe I can rig something inexpensive like Naoki mentioned. As for the above quote, can you clear this up a bit? I tried to search for the names of the lights you use but I wasn't able to find anything.. Are you saying that you use the 50/50 bulbs of 6400k and 3000k (as mentioned above) to give your orchids the full spectrum? And do you switch these on and off throughout the day for 5hr increments? Just want to make sure I understand!!
Air circulation-I know that computer fans are the method of choice. Is there a certain size, brand, or type that is suitable/cheap for a damp environment? Also, if you use two fans in the enclosure where to do you mount them inside? Do you point one lower and one near the lights? Both pointing inward or one outward? (I hope that makes sense)
Ray- I hadn't thought about the LED lights. They certainly would be a cheaper option; however, I don't know much about them. Would just one light be big enough for my needs or would I need two? Also, will this generate enough heat to help keep the humidity in check? I am not too worried about the light sticking over at the moment but want to consider all the best options.
Ok, this isn't probably as thought out as my previous post but I think I touched on most of the questions so far. Thanks again guys!!
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12-30-2012, 02:13 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Zone: 2a
Location: Fairbanks, AK
Posts: 975
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Miadunn, I don't have any scientific data, but my phals and paphs are ok with just 6500K bulbs. I used to use mixture of cool and warm T8 about 10 years ago. But I get the cheap 5000-6500K bulbs recently. Certain plants could be more sensitive to spectrum (flowering could be influenced by more red lights etc), but I don't think Phals are sensitive to it.
In the case of 2' T5, HO is 24W, and NO is 14W. T5NO is most efficient (lumen/W), then T8, and T5HO after that. But if you want to pack lots of light per space, T5HO have an advantage. Here is some info:
Commercial Lighting Tax Deduction
You need both T5HO ballast and bulb to get the high output. My understanding is that you can put T5HO bulb to T5NO ballast, but it will operate at the NO. Here are a couple decent T5HO fixtures (I have the 4-bulb version). I have seen T5NO in HomeDepot, but I'm not sure about the quality of the reflector.
Amazon.com: EnviroGro FLT22 Two Tube T5 Fluorescent Grow Light System: Patio, Lawn & Garden
or
Amazon.com: EnviroGro FLT22 Two Tube T5 Fluorescent Grow Light System: Patio, Lawn & Garden
But Ray's LED would be nicer, and you'll save money over a long run. Initial cost of the fixture is tribial compared with the electricity you are going to pay over the next couple years. You probably need 2-4 of them. I think you have your humidity-temp relationship backward. If the light generate heat, humidity will go down. But in the enclosure, you won't have any problem with humidity (although I don't know where you are located).
With the PC fan, you probably need only one. A bigger one with lower rpm and ball-bearings is quieter (maybe 120-180mm?). All you need is that you gently circulate the air.
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12-30-2012, 02:20 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Zone: 2a
Location: Fairbanks, AK
Posts: 975
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If you are really into saving electricity, I highly recommend:
Amazon.com: Sunshine Systems LEDGP45 GlowPanel 28 Watt 45 LED Grow Light: Patio, Lawn & Garden
It covers slightly less than 2'x2' (about 1-1.5' between the light and the top of the leaves), and my Phals (they are all species, not hybrids) are growing/flowering well. But lots of people can't handle the purple light.
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12-30-2012, 10:30 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oak Island NC
Posts: 15,205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miadunn
Ray- I hadn't thought about the LED lights. They certainly would be a cheaper option; however, I don't know much about them. Would just one light be big enough for my needs or would I need two? Also, will this generate enough heat to help keep the humidity in check? I am not too worried about the light sticking over at the moment but want to consider all the best options.
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I am currently growing and blooming some phals, paphs, and African violets under a single lamp held about 15" above the foliage. At that height, the coverage area is about 30" square (I have the paphs in the middle, directly under the lamp, with the others occupying the perimeter.)
If I were in your shoes, I'd use two, to allow for higher and lower-light plants.
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