Donate Now
and become
Forum Supporter.
Many perks! <...more...>
|
12-07-2012, 11:46 AM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2009
Zone: 7b
Location: Atlanta, Ga
Posts: 1,542
|
|
Bob, great point. Poor reflectors waste so much light, hence the price of the units I mentioned. But, I promise, a nice 4 bulb or 8 bulb 4' unit is worth it.
|
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
|
|
|
12-07-2012, 11:55 AM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2009
Zone: 6a
Location: Pennsylvania
Age: 29
Posts: 6,061
|
|
here is the fixture im planning on getting...a little over your budget, but well worth the wait to save up for it! free shipping too!
|
12-07-2012, 12:10 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Southern California, Los Angeles
Posts: 965
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Call_Me_Bob
really? thats odd. we use it for planted aquariums all the time, usually along side a 6700k but sometimes alone.
|
Color temperature has very little meaning when applied to fluorescent lights. When a manufacturer calls a lamp 10000K, all that means is that the manufacturer is trying to imply that this lamp will look bluer than another lamp that is said to be 6000K. As Connie said, a true blackbody radiator at 10,000K would be emitting mostly in the ultraviolet.
As for lumens - this is a measure of how bright a light would appear to a _person_. Human vision is most accute with green light at 550 nm and drops off very rapidly at the wavelengths that plants best utilize. If you want the most lumens per watt then get a lamp that emitts green light, it won't be very good for plants though. This is why fluorescent lamps that have the highest lumens per watt have lower Color Rendering Index (CRI) values; to increase the lumens per watt the manufacturer has to increase the proportion of green light which lowers the CRI.
In terms of supplying the most amount of fluorescent light per watt that will be useful for your plants, the color of the fluorescent bulbs is not very important. The best you can do is try to get a lamp that produces very little green light, to do that though you would have to look at the emission spectrum of the lamp not the so called Color Temperature and not many manufacturers provide emission spectra charts for their lamps.
Last edited by DavidCampen; 12-07-2012 at 12:24 PM..
|
Post Thanks / Like - 2 Likes
|
|
|
12-07-2012, 12:36 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2009
Zone: 6a
Location: Pennsylvania
Age: 29
Posts: 6,061
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidCampen
Color temperature has very little meaning when applied to fluorescent lights. When a manufacturer calls a lamp 10000K, all that means is that the manufacturer is trying to imply that this lamp will look bluer than another lamp that is said to be 6000K. As Connie said, a true blackbody radiator at 10,000K would be emitting mostly in the ultraviolet.
As for lumens - this is a measure of how bright a light would appear to a _person_. Human vision is most accute with green light at 550 nm and drops off very rapidly at the wavelengths that plants best utilize. If you want the most lumens per watt then get a lamp that emitts green light, it won't be very good for plants though. This is why fluorescent lamps that have the highest lumens per watt have lower Color Rendering Index (CRI) values; to increase the lumens per watt the manufacturer has to increase the proportion of green light which lowers the CRI.
In terms of supplying the most amount of fluorescent light per watt that will be useful for your plants, the color of the fluorescent bulbs is not very important. The best you can do is try to get a lamp that produces very little green light, to do that though you would have to look at the emission spectrum of the lamp not the so called Color Temperature and not many manufacturers provide emission spectra charts for their lamps.
|
thanks for shedding some light on that!
|
12-07-2012, 07:42 PM
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oak Island NC
Posts: 15,191
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidCampen
Color temperature has very little meaning when applied to fluorescent lights. When a manufacturer calls a lamp 10000K, all that means is that the manufacturer is trying to imply that this lamp will look bluer than another lamp that is said to be 6000K. As Connie said, a true blackbody radiator at 10,000K would be emitting mostly in the ultraviolet.
|
Once again, none of this is incorrect, but I think you may be treading a bit out of context here, David.
The "actinic" bulbs, often labeled as 10,000°K, that are intended for growing aquatic plants and especially corals, are not merely made to "look" bluer to the human eye - which is what the "corrected color temperature" is focused upon with most fluorescents. In order for there to be an appreciable amount of UV emitted, the glass used to make the tubes is higher in silica and lower in the glass modifiers than are most other bulbs. To take it beyond actinic to UV bulbs used for germicidal applications, the bulbs are pure SiO 2, as it does not block the UV.
|
12-07-2012, 07:58 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2009
Zone: 6a
Location: Pennsylvania
Age: 29
Posts: 6,061
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray
Once again, none of this is incorrect, but I think you may be treading a bit out of context here, David.
The "actinic" bulbs, often labeled as 10,000°K, that are intended for growing aquatic plants and especially corals, are not merely made to "look" bluer to the human eye - which is what the "corrected color temperature" is focused upon with most fluorescents. In order for there to be an appreciable amount of UV emitted, the glass used to make the tubes is higher in silica and lower in the glass modifiers than are most other bulbs. To take it beyond actinic to UV bulbs used for germicidal applications, the bulbs are pure SiO2, as it does not block the UV.
|
10,000k bulbs are different than actinic bulbs. i dont know what exactly actinic are as far as kelvin, but they are to make colors in a reef tank 'POP' and are usually paired with a bulb in the rang of 6,500 to 10,000 kelvin.
|
12-07-2012, 08:08 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2012
Zone: 6a
Location: Indianapolis IN
Age: 65
Posts: 905
|
|
I understand what you are saying and it makes sense. I appreciate everyone's input, but to be honest I feel the conversation has taken some confusing tangents. I am not a "light" person in the sense that I have never studied lightwaves, emission sources, human vs. plant light perception; at least not to the incredible lengths that some of you have.
I kind of wish I had just asked for a good brand and model number but I doubt that this would have altered too much of the discourse as I am sure that every choice would have multiple opinions.
Currently I have 1-T12, 2-T8s and one T5 HO fixture. I will be adding more T5 HO, but to be honest the combo of the T12 and the T8 bulbs are working nicely as I have a Brassovola nodosa that is moving into bloom under these lights. I will post the pics when it does open.
I was able to find the light scale on that package that showed where the T12 and T8 bulbs rated and I mixed red and blue tubes. The T5 had no scale, so I will let you know how they work out.
Thanks for everything !
Steve
|
12-07-2012, 08:10 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2011
Zone: 6b
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 1,009
|
|
I'll have to check this out. Might be time for a second shelf!
|
12-08-2012, 03:24 AM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2012
Zone: 6a
Location: Indianapolis IN
Age: 65
Posts: 905
|
|
Hello everyone -
Wanted to thank you guys for mentioning the hoods. There is no hood attached, as this is simply a strip fixure. But I make my own, so that doesn't really bother me. My T5 has a stainless steel hood, and it works well, but it is not what I wish it stretched out further and was 1" deeper.
I have had custom hoods made out of polished aluminum that worked well in the past. Recently I ran across some highly reflective material that is used as a water barrier behind tile and dry wall. It is thin, flexible and has a mirror finish. I am going to use that to direct my light inward. I have looked around and I think I have some good designs for this. Plus a friend recently had a shower installed and I am going to try and cop what he thows away - hate to see good products go to waste and everthing is on a shoestring right now. Will let you know how it works out.
Steve
Last edited by Stray59; 12-08-2012 at 03:31 AM..
|
12-08-2012, 10:16 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Beautiful BC
Posts: 1,526
|
|
Hi stray59
i for sure know nothing about Lights... got mine at a hydrophonics Store- at there advise i bought
4' T5 -4 bulbs- 2 at 2700 K- called Sun Blaster
and 2 at 64000K- they work great for me.I mixed them up one of 64 then 27 then 64 , then 27.
If that is of any help to you.
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:35 PM.
|