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  #1  
Old 08-15-2009, 02:26 PM
josterha josterha is offline
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Default New Lighting Set-up pictures and more questions

Hello everybody,

I wanted to attach a few pictures of my new home-made "orchidarium". I am very proud of how it looks as it really blows my former home-made lighting table out of the water.





This is the now-defunct light table

http://www.orchidboard.com/community...ight_table.jpg

My collection has grown since the first humble table was built from about five plants to nearly 40 phals and paphs.

However, I am still a total beginner and rank amateur! And so I have some questions.

1. Do I really need to supplement my new fluorescent lights with incandescent lighting? I have read in an orchid book that fluorescents only produce in the "blue" spectrum and that plants need "red" light in order to bloom. Does this still apply with today's fluorescents? I am using 32 watt Philips T8 "Daylight Deluxe" lamps. Color temperature is 6,500K, color rendering index of 85. The light given off looks very pleasant to my eye, at least.

2. Do I now have TOO much light? My old table had a maximum of only 70 FC (about 740 lux) using a "grow light" fluorescent bulb and two small halogen desk lamps. It loooked like a lot of light to me at the time until I bought a light meter. Believe it or not, I actually brought some phals to spike and eventual bloom (albeit meager sprays) under this light. No paphs ever rebloomed, except one spike (still spiking now) that was placed directly under one of the desk lamps.

Each shelf of my new fixture has four 48" inch tubes above it. In the center, it gives of about 560 FC (6,020 lux) at about 16" from the lights and about 950 FC (10,200 lux) in the middle shelf 10" from the lights. According to various orchid books that I have, a minimum of 900-1,000 FC is required even for low-light orchids.

Having read this, I blissfully put as many plants as would fit under the four lights thinking that now I will see some real dramatic growth and blooming. Now comes the problem. Some leaves started pretty quickly to turn purplish-red. I asked a grower at Hausermann's about that and she said that that means they are getting too MUCH light. If I am only getting the minimum published light requirements even on my brightest shelf, why then are the plants reacting like it is too much light?

I have since, removed half of the bulbs, and the plants are starting to respond favorably. They still look happy and some of the reddish hue is draining from the leaves.

I am still very confused, so if anyone can please offer some guidance, it would be appreciated

THANK YOU!

John
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  #2  
Old 08-15-2009, 02:30 PM
josterha josterha is offline
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Here are links to the new light shelves. For some reason, they are not showing above:

http://www.orchidboard.com/community...chidarium1.jpg

http://www.orchidboard.com/community...chidarium2.jpg

Thanks,
John
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  #3  
Old 08-15-2009, 03:07 PM
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calvin_orchidL calvin_orchidL is offline
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Nice setup John! To answer some of your questions

1. Incandescent lighting is absolutely not required. Fluorescent light comes in various temperatures, blueish as well as warmer red light. Try and find tubes that are rated as 5000K...if you can't, get some warm and some cool (3000 and 6500K)...the rating will be on the tube. Check the ones you have right now - they look like the cooler bulbs.

2. The plants are turning purple likely because they are not used to this much light. It's like taking someone who's been indoors all winter and shoving them into the middle of the sahara...they'll burn right up. Light levels should be increased gradually. 70fc is basically zero light. with 500-1000 fc, you're getting a good healthy amount of light for phals and paphs, IMO

Other things to note: duration can (sometimes) compensate for light intensity - ie 1000fc recommended doesn't mean 1000fc for 18 hours straight! In nature, you might get a few hours of 1300fc, a few hours of 800, a few hours of 500 etc...and the 1000fc recommendation is simply a rough estimate.

Your idea of removing some tubes is a good one...you can also see if you can adjust distance gradually. What kind of tubes do you have? Are they T8s? (Fluorescent tubes come in several sizes...T12, T8, T5 and some in between..it refers to the thickness of the tube)

Hope that helps! It looks great
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  #4  
Old 08-15-2009, 04:55 PM
Ross Ross is offline
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I agree with Calvin except DON'T REMOVE TUBES unless you remove the entire fixture. This will damage the remaining tubes and/or ballast. Once the plants are used to this amount of light (70 FCs was way too small) then they'll turn back to green (at least mine do).
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Old 08-15-2009, 06:45 PM
josterha josterha is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross View Post
I agree with Calvin except DON'T REMOVE TUBES unless you remove the entire fixture. This will damage the remaining tubes and/or ballast. Once the plants are used to this amount of light (70 FCs was way too small) then they'll turn back to green (at least mine do).

Hi Ross,

Thanks for responding. I actually did not physically remove the bulbs. They are just turned slightly so that the contacts are not conducting electricity. Is this still bad?
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  #6  
Old 08-15-2009, 06:52 PM
josterha josterha is offline
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Hi Calvin,

Thank you for your response. I am using 32 watt Philips T8 "Daylight Deluxe" lamps. Color temperature is 6,500K, color rendering index of 85. So you think if I change out two of these (per shelf) for 3000K bulbs that it would be better? Unfortunately, I can't really increase or decrease the distance from the lights to any large degree. the plants are just about 5" from the light bulbs.

John
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  #7  
Old 08-15-2009, 10:06 PM
Ross Ross is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josterha View Post
Hi Ross,

Thanks for responding. I actually did not physically remove the bulbs. They are just turned slightly so that the contacts are not conducting electricity. Is this still bad?
Yes! The ballast needs all the bulbs inserted that it was designed for.
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  #8  
Old 08-15-2009, 10:14 PM
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calvin_orchidL calvin_orchidL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross View Post
Yes! The ballast needs all the bulbs inserted that it was designed for.
You learn something new everyday! I stand corrected

Whether or not the color temperature matters is a contentious subject, but I know that mixed temperatures *do* work...whether or not it's better or necessary, I can't say.

Are you sure you can't raise the lights or the shelving? I have similar shelving and the heights are adjustable. 5" should be find though, to be honest. As long as they don't burn, they will acclimatize.
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  #9  
Old 08-16-2009, 06:07 PM
Magnus A Magnus A is offline
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Hmmmm, As long as the leaf stays purple I would not worry to much. If they start getting with marks they are getting way to much light an you should start to worry! Then ALL pigments in the leaf are bleach, and that is bad.
Why not shorten the light period to let the plants adjust? Start with 8 hours for let say 1 week and prolong the time 1 hour every week until you reach the amount you want....
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  #10  
Old 08-16-2009, 06:14 PM
Ross Ross is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnus A View Post
Why not shorten the light period to let the plants adjust?
Good catch! Now why didn't I think of that? I do that myself.
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